Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

DIVETRIBE Online Video Discussions- list of topics

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
    Looks fine. Better bow high during the ascent than stern high. As there are no baffles in the ballast tank to attenuate movement of free water once the boat with a partially filled tank takes an angle, the boat will stay there until the tank is either completely empty or completely full.

    You almost have a well trimmed boat. Now add foam till just the tip of the sail sticks out of the water with a full ballast tank, and you're done. Your boat is currently negatively buoyant in submerged trim. It should be slightly positively buoyant in submerged trim.

    David
    Gotcha. Thank you very much sir.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post
      Ok, so I finally got an opportunity to spend some time with my Redoutable in the pool. After some time trimming I shot this video. Since this is my first sub I am wondering if the static trim looks about right or if there is something I can do to get it better? The waterline looks about dead on and it seems to submerge near level but when surfacing the bow comes up considerably ahead of the stern. Maybe that is normal? I dunno.

      Steve,

      That is a great looking Redoutable! Can you tell what MSD or SD you put into yours! Watching it go under really got my blood pumping again! I built the Redoutable, but my basic design was just for pool operation and used for surface running only.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040001.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	70.4 KB
ID:	139893Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040007.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	77.9 KB
ID:	139894Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040008.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	76.7 KB
ID:	139895

      I 3D printed my own WTC (No balast system at all) After seeing yours go to the bottom it sure got me wishing mine could do that!!

      A little more trim work on yours and you are going to have one nice Submarine for sure. Thanks for sharing your video!

      Rob

      "Firemen can stand the heat"

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post

        Steve,

        That is a great looking Redoutable! Can you tell what MSD or SD you put into yours! Watching it go under really got my blood pumping again! I built the Redoutable, but my basic design was just for pool operation and used for surface running only.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040001.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	70.4 KB
ID:	139893Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040007.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	77.9 KB
ID:	139894Click image for larger version

Name:	P4040008.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	76.7 KB
ID:	139895

        I 3D printed my own WTC (No balast system at all) After seeing yours go to the bottom it sure got me wishing mine could do that!!

        A little more trim work on yours and you are going to have one nice Submarine for sure. Thanks for sharing your video!

        Rob

        "Firemen can stand the heat"
        Thanks Rob. I am running the new 2.5/3/2.5 Modular Sub Driver from Dave Merrimon that I got through the Nautilus Drydocks. It is a very good fit for the sub.

        Comment


        • #19
          Enjoyed the Dive Tribe get together tonight. Bob, no joy on reversing the pump and solenoids on the Mtronics ballast module.

          Comment


          • #20
            I missed it again. Did get a notice. Bob? Am I missing something? Please advise.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by SteveNeill View Post
              I missed it again. Did get a notice. Bob? Am I missing something? Please advise.
              He was late with the reminder -- still running around with his hair on wire after that quick trip to Canada land to oversee disposition of an estate.

              Next one, Steve. Damnit! Be there!

              David
              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #22
                OK! Yes just got the email notice. A bit late but I got it. Do we use Zoom? As always, thank you David!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Email notification should have went out sooner, but it did go out 30 minutes ahead of time (at least from my end).

                  The next Gathering will be June 11th. Same time. Same place. The updated times of the next meeting are always posted on both my home page at www.nautilusdrydocks.com and on the DiveTribe members home page.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Ok, I got the ballast control module working perfectly. Issue is with solid state relays that even on the load terminals there is a load terminal and a source terminal. In otherwords, it matters which terminal you connect directly to the coil or motor and which terminal you connect the source wire to. Gotta love Google. I simply reversed the wires in the screw connectors and its all good. Just so happened that I had both backwards. Bob, perhaps that is what you were telling me but I misunderstood.
                    Last edited by RCJetDude; 06-01-2020, 09:18 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Question, how do you size capacitors for a pump motor to cut down on the RF noise?

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post
                        Question, how do you size capacitors for a pump motor to cut down on the RF noise?
                        .02uF, ceramic, anything rated over 25-volts. KISS
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

                          .02uF, ceramic, anything rated over 25-volts. KISS
                          David, thank you for the info. The caps were the ticket. No more glitches.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                            David, thank you for the info. The caps were the ticket. No more glitches.
                            Excellent.
                            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X