Weathering the 1/96 Type-212 Kit

[Timothy L]

An excellent and unusual photo which may interest those following David’s invaluable thread (thank you David).

[jim h]

Email me your address ,I have a package I need to send you also. ( Goodies) I had to delete my contacts on email and havent got your email address anymore. I need to catchup on everyone and how they are doing.

Jim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No you won't!

e-mail me your mailing address and want list.

dmeriman@aol.com

David

[jim h]

David ,do you have any extra scopes for the 212 laying around ? I need some and will buy them .

Jim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Juan,

Stippling is the action of holding a stiff, semi-pointed brush at a right-angle to the work, and applying a quick up/down motion to transfer little uneven dots of medium to the work. In this case, laying down a masking agent: tooth-past, syrup, PVA, whatever can be easily removed later. The key is using a rather large, pointed, round, stiff brush and loading it with the minimum of medium -- and to practice the technique off-model -- only committing the operation to the model once you get it right!

Not to be a smart-ass here, but there really are 'stippling brushes', sometimes called 'stencil brushes'. Art supply and stationary stores carry 'em. Below is a shot of just such a stencil brush ready to dab on little flecks of wet tooth-paste onto the below waterlines portions of these two 1/96 SKIPJACK kits, and what the desired 'speckled' appearance should be after you lay down the bleaching and rub off the water-soluble tooth-paste with a damp cloth.



Below are some hints on how I get the oil-can, or 'dished' look with paint of a wave beaten structure.




David,

[reddevil]

Roger on that and thank you very much. I'll improve the "bleaching" technique on my next hull (Rick's 1/72, when arrives). Any suggestion for stippling?

Juan Carlos.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The location of the rust is fine, but too much -- tone it down a bit with the base color.

The tooth-paste was not applied with a stippling action of a stiff brush, you literally painted it on. but the eventual degree of below-waterline bleaching is perfect.

Damned good attempt!

David,

[reddevil]

Here's the result. Looks like needs an urgent dry docking. It's the first time I use tooth paste technique so, please, be indulgent.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

A light mist of lightened base-color below the waterline, with a hint of green from waterline to about three feet below waterline.

David,

[reddevil]

I've finished an AKULA II. The hull is painted and with decals applied, and now I'm thinking about weathering it a bit, just enough to make her looking real. Some pictures I've examinated seems to offer a submarine which hull doesn't has much effects of weathering, at least as it seems at medium distance. The hull is also streamlined and with few protrudes. Any suggestion?

Merry Christmas.
Juan Carlos.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

A very, very light touch with the rust. Less is more.

[Albion]

No not messing up the welds on Thresher, was just a thought bouncing around my hea dwhilst i was working on it. Im trying to get it in the scribe marks just to huighlight the details

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Don't go crazy with the rust weathering at welded seams on the THRESHER. Remember: as first of the class, the THRESHER was a 'show-boat' and was almost always in a high state of preservation.

Also, know this about How things are stuck together on post-war American Submarines: Most of the pressure hull and superstructure welds are deep, multi pass fills into well beveled unions, the excess beading later ground down flush with the adjoining plating. Not much opportunity for rust to gather in these 'seamless' areas.

(And, for you nit-pickers out there: Yes, it was a bad metal union that killed the THRESHER. But, it was likely a bum brazing job, not a weld that failed. Two different metal joining systems: welding is a fusing of two like metals. Brazing is akin to soldering, an adhesive bond between two metals through the plating of a lower melting third between them).

American boats are well maintained; most of what you'll see are streaking effects from running water mixing with salt, oil, and bird-****.

Look over your research photos: you'll be hard pressed to identify any significant localized rusting or rust streaking on American ships-of-the-line.

David,

[Albion]

After posting i did think to say about the risk of abrasion too, thanks. As per your earlier examples, obviously the most common rusting is going to be in areas where the paint is worn away, hatches, handles walkways etc etc.

As regards the electrolysis i guess it could be. I have noticed welds starting to rust within days of the welds, and thats with the piece just sat around in the workshop, so maybe its a bit of both.

Really the point of this was, rather than thinking i have seen this model or that model with rust on the seams, so i will put it there on mine, too understand why it is rusting there, so you can apply as you see fit, rather than "cut and paste".

Albion, having fun with oil based burnt sienna

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Albion,

Dan just stole my thunder.

Gee ... THANKS, Dan.

Another reason that weld beads (unless ground down flush with the work) become a source of rust is that the bead itself stands proud of the surrounding metal. Its protective coating is easily abraded off exposing the raw metal to the elements.

Good observation, Albion, and most appropriate to the thread.

David,