Weathering the 1/96 Type-212 Kit

[Timothy L]

KingArt, Artist Mixed Media Gel Sticks. Walmart super-stores carry this and other nifty mediums of use to we sicko r/c model submarine types.

Cool! Thank you David.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you very much David - I cannot read the labels on the “smear colors’ - what media are you describing please?

KingArt, Artist Mixed Media Gel Sticks. Walmart super-stores carry this and other nifty mediums of use to we sicko r/c model submarine types.

[Timothy L]

Thank you very much David - I cannot read the labels on the “smear colors’ - what media are you describing please?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David - I have two questions about applying the radial salt streaks:

1) For applying streaks UNDER the 2K poly, can you recommend a media, other than Artist Oils, that will dry quickly and not disappear when the poly is applied? (I absolutely love Artist oils and am adept with them and drying agents - but in this case I don’t want to wait for the very long curing time required).

2) If using white pastel chalk OVER the poly (to avoid disappearing when clear coated), will the poly surface retain the chalk or is it too smooth?

Thank you.
Tim

1. Try the water soluble 'smear' colors. You can feather them and mix to achieve varied color transitions down the length of the smear/streak. If you **** things up, a damp rag will remove the evidence and you can try again. Love the stuff! Once happy with the work you overcoat with clear 2K and it's fixed for life.












2. The ground-in chalk will remain IF the 2K clear-coat had been applied with flattening agent (provides the 'rough' surface to hold the grains of chalk).

[Timothy L]

David - I have two questions about applying the radial salt streaks:

1) For applying streaks UNDER the 2K poly, can you recommend a media, other than Artist Oils, that will dry quickly and not disappear when the poly is applied? (I absolutely love Artist oils and am adept with them and drying agents - but in this case I don’t want to wait for the very long curing time required).

2) If using white pastel chalk OVER the poly (to avoid disappearing when clear coated), will the poly surface retain the chalk or is it too smooth?

Thank you.
Tim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, on the 212 is the orange paint on the scope for visibility?

I assume so. Not Orange for fleet use.

[biggsgolf]

First, a few shots of the 'real thing' as reference

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3830[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3831[/ATTACH]

And now, the finished model
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3832[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3833[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3834[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3835[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3836[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3837[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3838[/ATTACH]

David, on the 212 is the orange paint on the scope for visibility?

[Timothy L]

An excellent and unusual photo which may interest those following David’s invaluable thread (thank you David).

[jim h]

Email me your address ,I have a package I need to send you also. ( Goodies) I had to delete my contacts on email and havent got your email address anymore. I need to catchup on everyone and how they are doing.

Jim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No you won't!

e-mail me your mailing address and want list.

dmeriman@aol.com

David

[jim h]

David ,do you have any extra scopes for the 212 laying around ? I need some and will buy them .

Jim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Juan,

Stippling is the action of holding a stiff, semi-pointed brush at a right-angle to the work, and applying a quick up/down motion to transfer little uneven dots of medium to the work. In this case, laying down a masking agent: tooth-past, syrup, PVA, whatever can be easily removed later. The key is using a rather large, pointed, round, stiff brush and loading it with the minimum of medium -- and to practice the technique off-model -- only committing the operation to the model once you get it right!

Not to be a smart-ass here, but there really are 'stippling brushes', sometimes called 'stencil brushes'. Art supply and stationary stores carry 'em. Below is a shot of just such a stencil brush ready to dab on little flecks of wet tooth-paste onto the below waterlines portions of these two 1/96 SKIPJACK kits, and what the desired 'speckled' appearance should be after you lay down the bleaching and rub off the water-soluble tooth-paste with a damp cloth.



Below are some hints on how I get the oil-can, or 'dished' look with paint of a wave beaten structure.




David,

[reddevil]

Roger on that and thank you very much. I'll improve the "bleaching" technique on my next hull (Rick's 1/72, when arrives). Any suggestion for stippling?

Juan Carlos.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The location of the rust is fine, but too much -- tone it down a bit with the base color.

The tooth-paste was not applied with a stippling action of a stiff brush, you literally painted it on. but the eventual degree of below-waterline bleaching is perfect.

Damned good attempt!

David,

[reddevil]

Here's the result. Looks like needs an urgent dry docking. It's the first time I use tooth paste technique so, please, be indulgent.