Working up the fittings kit for the Revell 1/72 Type-7

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  • Kazzer
    *********
    • Aug 2008
    • 2848

    #31
    Here is the latest update from The Wizard.

    It never goes as fast as I want, but I did make progress over the weekend on the Type-7 masters:

    After three failed attempts I finally came up with the production version of the means by which we will access the interior of the hull. It's a system of five removable deck frames. These are removed to install or pull out the SD. The removable frames work by pushing the two hull halves apart the right distance so the single deck piece can be fit on the flange lips provided within the hull. Holding the deck down on the hull is accomplished with little disc magnets, five secured on the bottom of the deck, the other five in their respective removable deck frame.

    Slicker than snot, Mike. Tonight/this morning I make the first half of the production tool that will produce the kit parts.

    Below is a narrative with the pictures on how this crazy thing works:

    David,


    Access to the inside of the hull is through the removable deck -- the entire deck, comprising three pieces, when removed, gives complete access to the models interior for SD, torpedo tube, and all control surface linkages. The trick is the use of five removable deck frames that contain magnets that attract magnets glued to the bottom of the deck. No screws or other fasteners needed.



    What you see here are the prototype and production masters of the removable deck frames. A cavity at the center of a frame accepts a disc magnet. These frames serve to push the two hull halves out to the point where the deck will fit properly and be held down, the deck magnets attracted to the magnets set in the frames.





    The removable deck frames in place. Note the magnet in the center of each. Just plunk the deck down (it's upside-down here so you can see it's magnets) and 'snap', the deck is in place upon the hull. Neat! Of course, the deck frames are removed to pull the SD out of there. Indexing tabs glued within the hull halves secures each frame in place.



    Here you can see a removable deck frame and its associated indexing tabs set into the hull. The production version of the indexing tabs will be much neater looking. The tabs keep the frame from dropping into the hull or being pulled out of it. Exerting a little force on the hull springs the two halves open enough to insert the frame.

    The natural state of the assembled hull places the two hull halves much closer together than required to fit the deck, thus the need to push the halves apart with the frames -- which serve double-duty as also being the means by which the deck is magnetically pulled down tight upon the hull flange lip.



    Demonstrating the flexibility of the single-piece hull (glued together from three pieces). Just line the deck up and plop it down in place ... the magnets do the rest of the work.


    We have complete access to the interior, which will make life easier when we finally are ready to install torpedo tubes!
    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

    Comment

    • pjdog
      Commander
      • Apr 2009
      • 302

      #32
      good work on type-7

      Very impressive David and Mike. You've done it again. Can't wait for my next type-7 and the fittings kit.

      Jack

      Comment

      • toppack
        Rear Admiral
        • Nov 2008
        • 1124

        #33
        Yes, that's a Great Idea!
        Be my luck to get the magnets in up-side-down.
        I can visualize the deck hovering about a inch above the hull. :)
        Rick L.
        --------------------------------------------
        * Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
        Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *

        Comment

        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12342

          #34
          The end's in sight: I tidy up the masters (there will be cast resin and cast metal elements to the fittings kit) and might have the production tools done late tonight/early this morning.

          By mid-day tomorrow I start cranking out production kits, bag and send them off to Mr. Caswell and from there distribution to you bums.

          David,
          Who is John Galt?

          Comment

          • Nuke Power
            Banned
            • Dec 2008
            • 277

            #35
            why did you go with such a complex set up vise your more standard methods?

            Comment

            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Moderator
              • Aug 2008
              • 12342

              #36
              Because I have found -- through feed-back from those who are trying to r/c the GATO -- that the basic MK1 Mod0 dumb-ass is loath to cut his hull.

              That's why, Neutron-Boy!

              David,
              Who is John Galt?

              Comment

              • Nuke Power
                Banned
                • Dec 2008
                • 277

                #37
                I agree about the gato. What I am talking about is the method devised while I was there? Does this new set up eliminate the "squeeze" to get the sub driver in the boat?

                Comment

                • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                  Moderator
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 12342

                  #38
                  Originally posted by Rogue Sub
                  I agree about the gato. What I am talking about is the method devised while I was there? Does this new set up eliminate the "squeeze" to get the sub driver in the boat?
                  Nope. This set up PERMITS the squeeze to get the SD into the boat. Dumb-ass!

                  David,
                  Who is John Galt?

                  Comment

                  • Nuke Power
                    Banned
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 277

                    #39
                    you see right there. I get banned for calling him a moron but, I can be called a dumb ass? Its bilge rat or neutron boy to you SIR!

                    Sorry david it just seems like youve made more work for yourself with this setup. Are you going to cast the magnets in place? Are you adhereing the magnets with CA or something else?

                    Comment

                    • Kazzer
                      *********
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 2848

                      #40
                      Originally posted by Rogue Sub
                      you see right there. I get banned for calling him a moron but, I can be called a dumb ass? Its bilge rat or neutron boy to you SIR!
                      Absolutely right Sithy! It wasn't very nice of him, so I banned him! Bilge Rat was much nicer for you! (But I do recall you snivelled about THAT too!)
                      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                      Comment

                      • Kazzer
                        *********
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 2848

                        #41
                        More Wizardry from The Cave!

                        His Eminence says:-

                        Today I completed all the masters needed to produce the production tooling for the 1/72 Revell Type-7 fittings kit. That kit used to convert the static model kit into a practical, fully capable r/c model submarine. Design of the eventual molds starts by laying out the masters on a piece of cardboard in an arrangement most conducive to efficient flow of resin during the pour -- the trick is to lay the masters out so that the cavities formed in the tool will quickly vent off air and accept the displacing resin. I came up with four tools. The circular one will be to produce cast metal pieces and the three others will be used to cast polyurethane resin pieces. In background are the marked out mold-boards that will back the clay used to mask off half of the masters before making the first half of the rubber tools.


                        The rudder foundation piece will have its own tool, it being a very 'deep' item. If I ganged it with other, narrower masters I would have wasted a lot of rubber, so this item stands along as a tool.




                        This tool will give form to resin pieces of the removable deck frame retainers, propeller shaft universal couplers, Stern plane dumb-bell adapter, and three short Kli-Con magnetic couplers (used for the stern plane bell-crank-to-pushrod and bow plane bell-crank-to-pushrod linkages).



                        The layout here represents the rubber tool used to cast the bow planes (note the outboard pivot pins), rudders, stern planes, and removable deck frames. Note that I've sketched in the position of the resin sprue channel as well as some of the air vent channels -- all of which will be either cast into or cut out of the rubber during tool fabrication. The layout step aids me in determining the best location of sprue and vent channeling.



                        The disc tool eventually produced will be spun at high speed so that centrifugal force will work to push the molten metal from the central sprue hole, down into the tool where the liquid metal will be slung outboard into the part cavities where it will freeze.

                        What you see here are masters for the rudder and bow plane bell-cranks, propellers, propeller dunce capes, rudder linkage gears, and multiple copies of the stern plane bell-crank.



                        MDF board is used for the mold-boards and eventual strong backs that will sandwich the halves of each rubber tool (the ones used for resin casting) together during the resin casting operation.

                        Tomorrow I make the rubber tools, and by evening time I'll have the first set of cast parts in hand so I can finish up my Type-7. From there I make parts for our long waiting customers.
                        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                        Comment

                        • pjdog
                          Commander
                          • Apr 2009
                          • 302

                          #42
                          Super job on fittings kit

                          It's a very impressive set up for the type-7. Spreading the hull is nothing to the type-7. I find my type-7 hull is very flexable as with the decking, sometimes I wounder if it's going to break but never does. The plastic in the 7 is far different than in the Gato. Thinner I guess. I see that david didn't remove any hull on his type-7 at all, I did. Can't wait to get smooth working rudders that turn at the same rate. Mine never seem to be on the same page but it does turn very well. The rudders, magnet decking , not cutting the hull and forward dive planes are my biggest deal.

                          hurry. waiting.

                          Jack

                          Comment

                          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 12342

                            #43
                            Originally posted by pjdog
                            It's a very impressive set up for the type-7. Spreading the hull is nothing to the type-7. I find my type-7 hull is very flexable as with the decking, sometimes I wounder if it's going to break but never does. The plastic in the 7 is far different than in the Gato. Thinner I guess. I see that david didn't remove any hull on his type-7 at all, I did. Can't wait to get smooth working rudders that turn at the same rate. Mine never seem to be on the same page but it does turn very well. The rudders, magnet decking , not cutting the hull and forward dive planes are my biggest deal.

                            hurry. waiting.

                            Jack
                            Just got in out of the shop. I just finished pouring the first half of the rubber tools needed to produce production pieces for the Type-7 fittings kit. Tool making will be done this late afternoon, followed shortly by the casting up of the first set of resin and metal parts, which will go into my Type-7 here -- I'll chronicle all that so you guys can follow along at home. This multi-part Cabal Report will constitute the assembly instructions for those of you who buy the fittings kit.

                            I'll post pictures for Mike to show off here late evening time today.

                            David,
                            Who is John Galt?

                            Comment

                            • roedj
                              Captain
                              • Sep 2008
                              • 563

                              #44
                              Mike/David,

                              Help me understand something please.

                              1) Is this new fittings kit suitable for both the "Wolf Pack" and the C/41 versions?

                              2) Is the fittings kit that's currently listed on the Caswell Plating web site the same one that you're showing here or is it an older soon to be replaced version?

                              Dan
                              Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

                              Comment

                              • Kazzer
                                *********
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 2848

                                #45
                                Originally posted by roedj
                                Mike/David,

                                Help me understand something please.

                                1) Is this new fittings kit suitable for both the "Wolf Pack" and the C/41 versions?

                                2) Is the fittings kit that's currently listed on the Caswell Plating web site the same one that you're showing here or is it an older soon to be replaced version?

                                Dan
                                1. Yes
                                2. There is no 'fittings kit' on the web page. There is a 'parts list', which is different. We will remove that in due course.
                                Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                                Comment

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