3.5" Skipjack SAS SD waterproof switch - what's your source?

[roedj]

David,

We now realize that the toggle power switch I received with the Skipjack 3.5" SAS SD is totally not up to the job - too small - way under designed for the current involved. You recommended I try Lowes for a suitable replacement. I tried. Here's what I found:

Neither:
1) Radio Shack,
2) Lowes,
3) O'reilly Auto parts, nor
4) A local boat store
could offer any suitable replacement.

So, I went online and searched for "waterproof 12V toggle switch". I found some but they cost in the neighborhood of $30 to $40 each. I can't believe you specified such an expensive item so what is your source? To be fair, I can't rule out salesperson ignorance of the products they carry but that's where I'm at now.

The magnetic switch from Engel will cost me about $60 shipped to the USA and is designed to easily handle the current involved and even a 25 Amp spike. Do I want to go this way? Not really, but I need alternatives.

Please advise,

Dan

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The last big toggle-switch I got (last week) was from Walmart. Harbor Freight is another source.


David

[Subculture]

Two brass bolts through the endcap, with a brass or better still, copper busbar, and you have a switch that will take any load. Cost is a few pence.

You can make the bus bar captive on one side, and with a slot on the other, so it can swing over onto the other bolt (if that makes sense).

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Two brass bolts through the endcap, with a brass or better still, copper busbar, and you have a switch that will take any load. Cost is a few pence.

You can make the bus bar captive on one side, and with a slot on the other, so it can swing over onto the other bolt (if that makes sense).

"Doctor Frankeinstein, call your Lab" (que the thermin music)

[roedj]

David,

You must have a special submarine section in your WalMart. I went there and asked for the toggle switches - no problem. I then asked for the waterproof boots that go over the toggle and got blank stares. I'm finding it's not the toggle switch; it's the waterproof boot that I cannot find locally.

Went to Harbor Freight - Sorry, Sir, we haven't carried any toggle switches for at least 6 months now. Argghhh...

I can find the boots online. I may just go that way. Or not. The magnetic switch is starting to look more and more attractive.

P.S. Sanding sticks... sanding sticks...

Subculture,

Neat idea - I'll think on it. I'm just concerned it may turn into a 3000 Amp fuse for a millisecond or two.

Dan

[Subculture]

Pretty unlikely, Dan. Use a stick to flick the bar if you are really nervous or glue on a piece of insulation.

For toggle switch boots, and most other electrickery a grand source is mouser.com

http://www2.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=waterproof+boots

[Subculture]

Some other ideas for you to explore.

You can use a bi-stable relay, and have the small toggle switch throw that over. Not too hard to find relays with contact ratings up to about 5-10A DC.

A better option, and very cheap, is to have the switch connected to the gate of a P-channel Mosfet, then you can source as much current as the Mosfet allows. Mosfets are cheap on ebay, look for one with a low RDS on.

[redboat219]

How about using the bulb from an eyedropper. Just pull the bulb over the toggle. Better if you could get the ones which come on a screw cap. Those bulb have a flange which will enable you to glue it onto the endcap.

[Subculture]

There are lots of things you can use. A bit of silicone tubing would do. Another technique I've seen used by Ron Perrott is to fit another bellows and run a brass rod into the interior, and have that actuate a switch (could be a toggle switch, slide switch etc.).

No need to copy everyone else, just use your loaf.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That's an excellent source, Andy. Thanks.

David

[roedj]

Pretty unlikely, Dan. Use a stick to flick the bar if you are really nervous or glue on a piece of insulation.

For toggle switch boots, and most other electrickery a grand source is mouser.com

http://www2.mouser.com/Search/Refine...terproof+boots

Andy,

Thanks for reminding me of Mouser. I've dealt with them before - good company. I'll give it a look-see.

Dan

[subcom117]

Reading this is somewhat alarming. I just purchased and received yesterday the Skipjack subdriver. I noticed the micro switch that came with it was so small it almost fell through the hole in the forward bulkhead and barely protruded beyond the surface of the bulkhead. This was a source of great consternation. The photos posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named (TM) clearly show a larger toggle switch which explains the large hole. Now I read the micro switch cannot handle the amperage, a thought which also crossed my mind. Is this true? I paid good money for an electronics kit that was supposed to be sufficient for this boat.

Since the switch was so small, I did find a better way to mount it. I secured a 5/8" washer to the switch and drilled a 5/8" countersink around the existing 1/2" hole from the interior of the bulkhead. This allowed the switch to sit further into the bulkhead and protrude further out the exterior, allowing sufficient space for another thin washer on the exterior, so that the rubber O-ring in the plastic and rubber exterior sleeve would have a flat surface to seat upon, which would enable it to serve its waterproof intention. Of course, generous amounts of RTV silicone sealant will enhance the waterproofing.

The switch itself is marked 5 Amps at 120 Volts AC. I'm no electrician, but if it can handle 5 Amps at 120 Volts AC, it cannot handle 5 Amps at 11 Volts DC? I don't know. I only know I paid a lot of money for this, and you are saying the switch is insufficient. He Who Shall Not Be Named (TM) or Mike Caswell please respond and confirm whether this switch is sufficient for its purpose.

Thanks,
Tim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Reading this is somewhat alarming. I just purchased and received yesterday the Skipjack subdriver. I noticed the micro switch that came with it was so small it almost fell through the hole in the forward bulkhead and barely protruded beyond the surface of the bulkhead. This was a source of great consternation. The photos posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named (TM) clearly show a larger toggle switch which explains the large hole. Now I read the micro switch cannot handle the amperage, a thought which also crossed my mind. Is this true? I paid good money for an electronics kit that was supposed to be sufficient for this boat.

Since the switch was so small, I did find a better way to mount it. I secured a 5/8" washer to the switch and drilled a 5/8" countersink around the existing 1/2" hole from the interior of the bulkhead. This allowed the switch to sit further into the bulkhead and protrude further out the exterior, allowing sufficient space for another thin washer on the exterior, so that the rubber O-ring in the plastic and rubber exterior sleeve would have a flat surface to seat upon, which would enable it to serve its waterproof intention. Of course, generous amounts of RTV silicone sealant will enhance the waterproofing.

The switch itself is marked 5 Amps at 120 Volts AC. I'm no electrician, but if it can handle 5 Amps at 120 Volts AC, it cannot handle 5 Amps at 11 Volts DC? I don't know. I only know I paid a lot of money for this, and you are saying the switch is insufficient. He Who Shall Not Be Named (TM) or Mike Caswell please respond and confirm whether this switch is sufficient for its purpose.

Thanks,
Tim

[ATTACH=CONFIG]20305[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20306[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20307[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20308[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20310[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]20309[/ATTACH]

The switch is not. I will fix you up. Contact me. dmeriman@aol.com

I'm conferencing with Mike on this matter -- thanks for bringing it to our attention

David