MBD British WWII "U" class sub Build
Collapse
X
-
Mike,
Thanks for the instructions. I'll give it a try later today.
David,
The way I dress? This from a guy who wears PINK shorts (Oh sure, ***** about the picture was doctored)
Dan (Can give as well he takes)Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
-
David:
You really missed your calling. You should be writing to a TV sitcom comedy. You would make millions. Plus with all the money you would make you would not be forced to beat Ellie and Rose to make them do parts production.
You are so funny. I really enjoy your rants.
JackComment
-
David:
You really missed your calling. You should be writing to a TV sitcom comedy. You would make millions. Plus with all the money you would make you would not be forced to beat Ellie and Rose to make them do parts production.
You are so funny. I really enjoy your rants.
JackStop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
-
Who is John Galt?Comment
-
Comment
-
If you can open up all the slots with out chipping the gelcoat, you're a better man than I. It's what Isopon (UPOL, Evencoat, Bondo etc.) was invented for!Comment
-
Very, very good adhesion between gel-coat and glass. As Andy pointed out, you can expect some chipping around the limber holes, but so far it looks like you have a very sound adhesion between substrate and foundation. And good clean work on your part. To insure that all the limber holes in a row are of the same height (sometimes the master is asymmetric), scribe a light engraved line under all the indentations in a row and work the punched out holes to that datum -- you'll have a much neater looking row of holes that way.
OK, show-off, everyone can see that you have a super-duper-wounder-deep sea Dremel tool with ergonomically designed handle. We're all jealous and now can't sleep. Mission accomplished.
Another trick to insure same size and shape to the limber holes: cut a stick to the same cross section of the limper holes, but just a tad smaller at the half-way point along the length of the stick, tapering the stick from handle to end slightly. Coat it with CA, then wrap some well worn #400 sandpaper around it. Us this as your 'final pass' tool to dress up the diameter and shape of each limber hole, Dan.
A good trick I recommend here, that will expedite the work, is to grind away a good portion of the fiberglass on the inside of the hull pieces under the limber holes. Less material for your drill and grinding bits to chew up and the resulting hole will reveal a 'plating' thickness more in keeping with scale.
Get back to work.
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
-
To insure that all the limber holes in a row are of the same height (sometimes the master is asymmetric), scribe a light engraved line under all the indentations in a row and work the punched out holes to that datum -- you'll have a much neater looking row of holes that way.
Another trick to insure same size and shape to the limber holes: cut a stick to the same cross section of the limper holes, but just a tad smaller at the half-way point along the length of the stick, tapering the stick from handle to end slightly. Coat it with CA, then wrap some well worn #400 sandpaper around it. Us this as your 'final pass' tool to dress up the diameter and shape of each limber hole, Dan.
A good trick I recommend here, that will expedite the work, is to grind away a good portion of the fiberglass on the inside of the hull pieces under the limber holes. Less material for your drill and grinding bits to chew up and the resulting hole will reveal a 'plating' thickness more in keeping with scale.
Get back to work.
David,
OR maybe I should fill in part of the hole with some Evercoat Easy Sander I have and go from there. Wadda ya think?
Dan (I'm workin' Boss)Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
-
You're do'n fine, Dan. Glad to hear you're also using your documentation. No, don't finesse the hole size yet, just punch them out and get onto the next operation -- you get too bogged down in the detail work now you'll lose heart and quit. Just keep slamming on the various tasks involved.
I work a kit assembly like this: Put things together straight, but quick and dirty and in primer gray; outfit the thing with the SubDriver then go to the pool and check it out. Only after that initial flurry of assembly activity do I sit down and finesse the hull to make it look better ... in my case, museum quality; a standard the rest of you uni-brows can only wish to attain. [By museum quality, do you mean entombed in dust-covered glass? - ED]
Here are some shots on how I tackle limber and flood-drain hole punch-outs:
David,
Last edited by Outrider; 02-15-2010, 10:40 PM.Who is John Galt?Comment
-
Gap between casing and hull
David or ??,
While punching out the limber holes I keep looking at the space on the mold where the gap ought to be between the casing and the pressure hull. Is it worth punching it out too? I realize it means more work, perhaps a lot more work, but it bugs me just having it molded in. Oh well, maybe I can "fake it" with clever painting at the end to give the appearance of depth. The picture of Unswerving clearly shows the gap.
DanBorn in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
-
David or ??,
While punching out the limber holes I keep looking at the space on the mold where the gap ought to be between the casing and the pressure hull. Is it worth punching it out too? I realize it means more work, perhaps a lot more work, but it bugs me just having it molded in. Oh well, maybe I can "fake it" with clever painting at the end to give the appearance of depth. The picture of Unswerving clearly shows the gap.
Dan
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
-
I need a do-over
David,
Family biz took me away for awhile but I'm back at it - for better or more likely worse. I'm "punching out" limber holes but they are totally FUBAR. Please tell me you have a way to fill in this mess and do some holes (OK, a lot of holes) over.
One pic shows difference between a diamond cutter (better) and a carbide cutter (my shaky hand can't handle it well).
Dan (I may be old but I am shaky)Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
-
No sweat, Shaky. Here's how you do it.
Put a little gap-filling CA in a shallow dish. take a 3/32" dowel and round the end a bit. Stick the dowel into the glue and transfer the glue to the chipped areas. Blow on some baking soda -- which immediately hardens the adhesive.
Drink five cups of coffee and continue with the careful carbide work. Dynamite goes quicker.
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
-
David,
Not sure what you mean by "bow on some baking soda"
I've got some spatulas from my chemistry days or some wooden craft sticks to basically slap some baking soda on the CA. Is that what you meant?
DanBorn in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
Comment