Japanese Class A 1/16

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If I was lazy, I could just glue em together. Or better yet glue em solid and just look at it. Yesterday in KW history, in 1973. The Howard W Gillmore left and went to Sardinia. A bit of submarine trivia.

Small world, it was the GILMORE that brought me to Key West and the Submarine Service -- A few months after we transferred out of Charleston to KW I cross-decked to the TRUTTA. Nine months later I had my Dolphin's!

... thanks for leaving the door open for me, Dave.

M

[Von Hilde]

If I was lazy, I could just glue em together. Or better yet glue em solid and just look at it. Yesterday in KW history, in 1973. The Howard W Gillmore left and went to Sardinia. A bit of submarine trivia.

[MFR1964]

Try this one David, sorry, posted about the gears Von found, need my glasses badly.

http://www.technobotsonline.com/gears/plastic-model-gears.html

Not yet have found the supplier of my brass gears, so the search will go on.

Von, good to know such things you experience with your contra rotating box, props are still way ahead for me, first get me a tower, and building a master for the hull.

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The central (black) mounting ring has three lugs that carry three spacing rods to mount on the silver bracket at the left of the photograph. Just read this back and even I don't understand it. Here's a photograph.[ATTACH=CONFIG]30428[/ATTACH] or two [ATTACH=CONFIG]30429[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]30430[/ATTACH] The front out runner is directly connected to the large (black) forward spindle and the rear out runner drives the central (silver) spindle. It needs two ESCs to run and provides quite a serious amount of contra-rotating power.

Slick! Good catch. Web-site?

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Of course, if you are lazy, you can make either of the two propellers free-wheeling and let it pin-wheel in the water.

M

[Von Hilde]

Manfred, I ran them dry first then wet. They were cool wet. I am building another but some internal modifications. No more sloppy gears. I want to try those pinion gears , but use two latteral trunions. Dave talked me into two idlers to bear the torque. I will try that set up in a round container so it will fit aft of where the cone seperates from the hull, With a shorter set of shafts, there wont be as much vibration, and of course a set of semi ballanced props will help. I found some sutable Raboesch 1940 design 4 blade. The nice thing about them, is you can get a large diameter LH for the forward and a smaller diameter RH for the aft. Flat hubs, so you only need to cone the aft with a small model plane spinner20 degree pitch at the hub. Found a nice supply of cone gears, plastic with brass hubs, and in colors. Robotics supplier in England, called Technobots, reasonable as well

[MFR1964]

Von,
Did you run it also underwater?, or did it run hot on dry land?, i've tested mine both ways, no problem at all, you have to keep your gears as sloppy as possible, i run metal gears.



The second step is made, got me my enlarged drawings, i must say the length is not bad about 137,5 mtr or 4 foot 7", also want to thank both David and Gene to make this possible, next step is making the ribs and getting some RenShape.



This one is for you George, as you can see i use three pinion gears, you could go the way like Von, looks to me much easier to make without a lathe, as for the brand of the pinion gears, i suspect they are from Aeronaut, i bought these from the shelf at the local hobbystore, so i really don't now the exact brand.


Manfred.

[Von Hilde]

Any luck so far?

Was expecting you'll go with building your own contrarotating gearbox.

BTW, with the tandem motors vs single motor with contrarotating gearbox, which would be more electrical power hungry?

I think the Doctor M, will be tied up with his and Mike's new toys for a while, but as far as power draw goes, It would depend on the size of the particular motor or motors amperage draw. I would say most models are way overpowered to begin with, so stepping down to two small motors can be better than one big one that has to overcome the friction drag in power, caused by the gear box. The loose tollerance of the gears to allow the compressed water passage is a bigger deal than suspected. My prototype box gets hot after a minuite or so running on the drill power during tests, and thats with the plastic gears. Thats why its a prototype. The next one will have bearings, instead of bushings thruout the drive line. The Idea of two small motors, side by side with the drive line in between might be the most efficent all around.

[Von Hilde]

Prototype works fine,just stuck some Revell plastic props to see it work.

[MFR1964]

Tea and scones guys?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Cat fell asleep from boredom, or he would have told me that

(in the urgent voice of William Shatner) "cat... must.... be.... destroyed!"

[Von Hilde]

The Cat fell asleep from boredom, or he would have told me that

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30431[/ATTACH]After a few hours of consultation, His Royal Higness, Tigger the cat said,"Why stick a square box in a round hull?" Only one trunion, will go on a pin thru the side of the case. Teflon shims will adjust the slop in the play

... because you want to ballance the lateral pressure presented by the bevel-gear. Use two, not one.

M

[Von Hilde]

After a few hours of consultation, His Royal Higness, Tigger the cat said,"Why stick a square box in a round hull?" Only one trunion, will go on a pin thru the side of the case. Teflon shims will adjust the slop in the playOk, two trunions, and now an end cover to keep the input shaft in line and its on to some propeller issues for a drill motor test, then I can scramble some eggs in a bowl.

[HardRock]

Good stuff, HardRock. Tell me more about the outrunner. How do you get two counter-rotating outputs from the thing. Most interested in this.

M

The central (black) mounting ring has three lugs that carry three spacing rods to mount on the silver bracket at the left of the photograph. Just read this back and even I don't understand it. Here's a photograph. or two The front out runner is directly connected to the large (black) forward spindle and the rear out runner drives the central (silver) spindle. It needs two ESCs to run and provides quite a serious amount of contra-rotating power.