Thank you Manfed! I am grateful for your heart and willingness to share!
Japanese Class A 1/16
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Hello
I too have to say Thank you Manfred for your posting and sharing. Could I please ask / beg for you to redo the circuit drawing, I find I am having some trouble seeing clearly the drawing and the parts list itself.
Sorry for the bother.
George
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George, the scematic is what it is, as for the needed parts,
P1- 1 Mega Ohm mini-potentiometer
R1- 1 Mega Ohm resistor
C1- 1 Elco 47 micro-Farad 16 Volts
R2- 1 10 Kilo-Ohm resistor
T1- 2 BC 547B Transistors
As for the relais, this depents on which voltage you run the circuit, i've used a 6 volt relais because i run on 2S (7,4 Volts)
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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Still on the move with the Ko Hyoteki, wanted to make some big steps accourding the hull build, this is where i stand now
First i had to skin the hull with glass to protect the styrodure against the filler and paint.
In general i apply one extra coat of epoxy to fill most holes, believe me, after spraying some primer i found a lot more, had to make about six runs of filler and wetsanding to get her right.
After this hurdle was taken the fun started, applied all weldinglines with a laser, and started to add the fishingline for imitating the weldinglines.
It took a week or so to get all lines glued down, sniffed enough CA fumes for months.
It was worth the effort, she finally starts to look like a sub, next time i will enjoy you guys with rivets-time.
Manfred.I went underground👍 1Comment
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Tom is right, i bought a simple laser that could project both the horizontal and the vertical lines at once, placed it on a tripod and moved the boat on the workingbench.
Added the fishinglines as imitation of the weldingbeads, one catch, use braided line, it better simulates the weldingbead.
Be patient, the rivet adventure will follow soon, all i can say, it was al lot of work/time to get those in complete with all the hatches.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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As promised the rest of the story, after placing the weldinglines i had to move over to placing the rivets, used the laser again to mark out the places of the rivets, started with the easy one's at the bow and the stern, a job pretty straight forward.
The more difficult one's where the ventholes for the batteries, made a template and drilled the holes, inserting the rivets to finish it up.
This one was more complex, luckely i had some documentation profided by David and Gene, together with a book from this sub i went making the templates for making this, you also can see the double row of rivets at the stern.
I decided to use primer instead of glue for locking up those rivets, this way i get nice sharp rivets without the trouble of removing the excess glue, gave her a total of three layers of primer, more to be sure that those rivets stay on their place.
Last but not least the final layer of paint, done this to get a smooth surface for making the mold, for now i have to make the bracket for holding the plug and prep her for building up the actual epoxy mold, this would be my first in adding all details on the plug itself, to get all the details i'm going to use a gelcoat at the first stage of building the mold.
I took me a few months to get to this point, running the gauntlett between the honey-do list, my house, the bikes and some other minor things, normally i prefer to build the mold during the spring because of tempartures.
Manfred.
I went undergroundComment
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Manfred, That is an amazing sub! If you re going to make some hulls, let me know the price and I will see if I can afford one. That is truly a work of art as well as a reflection of your craftsmanship.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Sorry for the late respons guys, it's busy in the cave, i'm pushing to get the molds ready before the low tempartures hit me.
Tom, as for more hulls, i have to see about that how the final hull will come out of the mold, from that i can see what the amount of time will be to build more.
As for the work allready done i'll give a update,
First i had to follow the drill of building a jigg to hold the plug.
Playing around with some clay to patch up the void between the jigg and the plug.
Using a simple tool to remove the clay, from this point on you have to act in one move, when finished reworking the clay i added the mold-release.
The gelcoat added to catch all the details of the plug, now you have to wait for the moment when the gelcoat becomes sticky, normally it takes half a hour, but since the temparture is lower i waited for a hour to be sure.
Added the first layer of glass and epoxy, used chopped strands to catch all sharp corners, you're out of the dangerzone when this layer has dried.
Building up the layers is pretty straight forward, it took me a full week every day to build up the mold on one side, cleaned the outer edges with the dremel.
Prepping the other side for the next run, yet again it took me a week to complete the other side.
The fun part after a few weeks, splitting the mold, due to the simple shape it came loose without any efford.
The other side also loosened, with this mold i made it with fewer layers as with the V80 and the type 17, this gave me some flex for loosening the plug, it worked out well.
As for the details, they came out well, the plug was only slightly damaged, lost some weldinglines as some rivets, but nothing what can't be replaced on the plug, one big hurdle taken.
Right now i'm in the proces of making the mold for the tower, making this jigg was a differend story, i followed the path used on the balconygerat of my type 17, stiffened the jigg with some copper rods, for now i'm playing with this, to be continued.
Manfred.I went underground👍 1Comment
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Joins hull Q if there is one. My Koryu is 1/20 and same dive module would work here. I was fortunate enough to go diving in the Kavieng area of Papua New Guinea in 2001. One of the dives was on a WW2 era Japanese merchant wreck. About 50 m from the main shipwreck was an A class which had been on the deck of the merchant when she started to list.Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:popComment
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