USS Plunger 595

[redboat219]

Servo operated snorkel perhaps?

Maybe something in line with this http://www.gentoosjournals.co.uk/Lin...-S-Winans.html

[Subculture]

If you just need to pinch of the hose, then a standard servo pinch valve will work- easy and cheap. To prevent the boat submerging with the valve open you could have a micro switch attached to the pinch valve servo which slots the 5v feed to the vent servo, so you can't flood the tank without the valve pinched off- simple and low tech approach.

[Subculture]

If you just need to pinch of the hose, then a standard servo pinch valve will work- easy and cheap. To prevent the boat submerging with the valve open you could have a micro switch attached to the pinch valve servo which slots the 5v feed to the vent servo, so you can't flood the tank without the valve pinched off- simple and low tech approach.

[Slats]

If you just need to pinch of the hose, then a standard servo pinch valve will work- easy and cheap. To prevent the boat submerging with the valve open you could have a micro switch attached to the pinch valve servo which slots the 5v feed to the vent servo, so you can't flood the tank without the valve pinched off- simple and low tech approach.

Yep that's all I need Andy. Ideas on how I activate the / build the pinch valve using the servo? It has to be a wet setup - that is snorkel induction line is running through free flood area. Thanks

John

[ManOwaR]

There is another solution using Dave's basic theory, but modified out of necessity to work in this tiny sail. I don't have an SAS system, but if I did, I would install this snorkel on my Jack for implementation. The beauty of this is that it can be done scale! I don't always drink beer either, but when I do it's Stella Artois. Stay thirsty my friends!

Here's the main points on how this works:
- the main induction line is held steadfast in the sail
- to the back of the induction mast is a push rod, this pushing or pulling a soft seated ball plug that seats and seal upon the top of the induction mast opening
- this push rod is guided by two guides...the guidholes can be square as can be the push rod at this point to keep the plug aligned with the seat up top
- a spring is attached to the bottom of the push rod (I forgot to show this in the diagram) and is in between the guides. This spring lifts the plug off the seat in surfaced condition
- attached to the bottom of the push rod is a fishing leader. this leader runs through a u tube conduit and into and through a shaped block of foam. In submerged condition, this block of foam counters the spring and pulls the plug shut on the seat. The u tube can be made longer to route the fishing leader to the back of the sail where a possibly larger float could be used.
- very little actual movement is needed. just enough for the plug to lift off the seat to allow breathing...so that means the float only has to move like a 1/16th of an inch or thereabouts.
- the front mounting stud will have to moved back in the sail unless you can figure out how to use it how it is
-



I think this can work with a little figiting and patience. Best of all, very low cost.

Joel

[Slats]

Hi Joel
yep - already sort of went this root but without your mechanics.

http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthread.php?2402-SAS-snorkel-head-valve-modifications&highlight=snorkel

But I do like your mechanics here a lot. I want to get away from floats and go active
- David jump in - and PLEASE check your mail and box up my order. The Regatta is inching closer!!

Joel - get down here and it will be Crown lager and fishing for Barramundi whilst dodging crocodiles.

[Albion]

I had forgotten that earlier thread.

I building up some parts from the great garage sail as a snort only WTC, for my 1/96 Permit. The induction mast on the Permit does lend itself to a model environment snort intake.

See detail of sail attachment

Looks like i will be cutting up some brass and bits this weekend to experiment. the 1/72 mast is tight, mine will be a bit like decorating the hall through my letter box, but I'm itching to get home now and check what diameter the whip antenna should be

John - I wouldn't tell any Brits you are going dogging crocodiles, it doesn't translate very well

[Slats]

John - I wouldn't tell any Brits you are going dogging crocodiles, it doesn't translate very well

See folks spelling matters
dogging in this case should have been dodging

Funny

[Slats]

1/72 mast is tight, mine will be a bit like decorating the hall through my letter box, but I'm itching to get home now and check what diameter the whip antenna should be

Yes indeed -tight


And like you were saying Albion - the solution in this tight boat might be a simple snort boat. That said I'm keen to try the SAS system, but I want to purchase a small gas back up copper bottle that I can retrofit if need be.

J

[Slats]

Joel
am thinking your drawing on the left illustrates the potential where the pushrod is servo activated. Added bonus here over a pinch line valve is its location you can see it, or least have a chance of seeing it.

I still see the concept suffering from the float potentially being too small a mass (given how thin it would need be to fit the mast) to activate the valve and hold it there.

In any setup I'd reverse the push rod activation for the sail planes aft so its aft of the rotation point.
J

[Subculture]

Okay, quick and dirty pinch valve for use with silicone hose. This used a small and cheap 9 gram servo, and took all of half an hour to fabricate. Sure you can knock something up much neater, this was just a proof of concept to retrofit a boat which was using a clippard valve. The pinch remained tight to beyond 20 psi.

Because the pinch point is small, you don't need much pressure, also it uses a cam action, so even a small servo does it's work easily. Nothing sharp on the point for obvious reasons- you want to pinch the hose not guillotine it!

[trout]

Looking at Joel's drawing, the snorkel height is not needed. You are limited to the float movement and that will only happen if the sail breaks the surface. You would be safer putting the snorkel in the sail itself (preventing target damage or getting snagged). That being said combining your thoughts John on using a servo, i see the height being a benefit. If a verticle pushrod is mounted in the wtc and a Klik-on is used (to make the wtc removable) for a connector between the wtc and the snorkel float rod, you could use a servo to seal the snorkel. Add a safety float in the wtc just in case you forget to seal the snorkel. The magnet is plenty strong enough to hold the seal closed and you have positive motion to break the seal once you have it above the surface. Did I make any sense?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

slick idea!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

slick idea!

M

[Slats]

John,
James looks like a great helper! Your hull looks real nice and well made. The demarcation line are you going to fill and re-mark the line?
Peace,
tom

Thanks Tom, kids are a great leveler and a blessing from God. You get back what you put in (well my view at least).

The demarcation line will get a tidy up with the rest of the hull.

J