Revell Type VII Build advice

[Avera]

Hi Folks,

Before I glue, I have a few questions:

1) After you glue on the stern tubes, do you need to fill it in with putty as shown on the VII Cabal PDF? If so, I have both the Green Putty and the JB Weld KwikPlastik, is either better for filling in the stern tubes and holes in general?

Note, I am not using any brass tubing on my model, but following the VII Dive Planes & Prop PDF which does not use the brass tubes.

2) In a test fit, I find the propeller shaft snug. I can turn the shaft with my finger tips, movement is not hard, but not real smooth. David as advised using a rat-tail file (not sure what that is) to bore out the problem hole. What is a rat-tail file and any other suggestions?

3) This is even more basic: how do you glue the hull halves together? I have both Plastruct Bondene and Model Master Liquid Cement for plastic models. (I have never used either of this stuff). Don't know why I suddenly have become overly cautious as I have glued models before, maybe not using the best technique. The bondene is very thin and I am used to using a medium viscoisity CA PLastic-Zap on my models.

From what I have gathered, when using the Bondene, you clamp the hull then apply the solvent using the brush applicator along the outside seam. Is that correct? If not please advise how you do it.

4) Is the propeller dunce cap glued to the propeller using epoxy, CA or something else?

5) What size hole do I need to drill on the bell cranks (rudder and forward dive planes)?

With this information I hope to complete the fittings part for the hull. Then to order the SD.

Thanks,

Andrew

[Reckless]

ah.... just do it! ... it's not like the hulls gotta seal...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Prayer!..............

[Avera]

Okay,

I think I have gotten all the hole done, shaved the area for the stern plane controls, drilled the holes for the rudders, widen the are for the stern tubes, test fitted the propeller shafts. I test fitted everything and it appears to fit and function.

Is there anything else I should consider before gluing the hull together?

[Avera]

The metal front axle to all of my slot cars rub against a plastic/nylon chassis and I never seen wear. Although the rear axles (which are powered) perform better in a brass bushing. However a lot of slot car manufacturers still use plastic bushings in the rear axle without any problem.

[Reckless]

mine doesn't have brass tubing... but then again I didn't build my hull ... and I'm discovering and reworking things as I go..

I imagine over time it could wear out the plastic ... but I also beleive your into a couple hundred hours or so of run time before it'll be anywhere near an issue

[Avera]

Almost done with the holes on the first half of the hull. In regards to the three holes near the keel midships, the plastic is very thick so I have been using a large drill bit to enlarge the openings. I am up to a 1/4 inch in diameter. To make it rectangular will be hard. Will the 1/4 inch opening be sufficient or do I need to enlarge further?


Secondly, based on the PDFs, the propeller shaft is housed in a 1/8" ID brass tubing that appears to run through the plastic shaft into the hull on one end and through the support skeg brace up to the point where it is flushed with part of the the brace facing the propeller. Is that correct? I have seen other builds that apparantly do not use the brass tube.

Revision: Ok, now I found another PDF specifically for the prop and rudder that does not use the brass tubing. I guess I'll go that route.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

25-degree up, and 25-degree down from zero is plenty on this set of stern planes.

David

[ADDINGTON]

RE: aft skeg,
Depending on how much material you remove and where, I suppose needs can differ from one build to another, but I will share that I once slimmed down the Kli-Con connector as David described, but I found that it wanted to get stuck if it went down too far into the cavity, and the opening was as wide as I dared already. This may not be the case for you, but in mine the original connector width worked better, as it rides over the top of the skeg opening and never binds. Even tho at full aftward throw the magnet may ride up a bit to the top of the bellcrank screw, there is plenty of throw angle for the stern planes. It may not look like they are moving much, but you will be amazed how effective they are in the water the first time you dial in a little down angle.
-Kerry

[Reckless]

Ordered more tools to make the holes and pleasantly noticed that the props are both left and right hand. I am surprised that only one speed controller is used as it would be advantageous to run each motor independently in order to make tighter turns especially in close quarters.

.

first.. theres barely enough room in the SD for 1 ESC ... second the props are so close together and the boat reportedly turns so well already that the difference would be minimal

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thin down the plastic shank of the Kli-Con and it will get down in there to follow the head of the stern plane bell-crank. Use #240 is quick little jabs using light pressure, keep a damp rag nearby and use it to keep the plastic near room temperature.

Get to it!

David

[Avera]

Also is it better to use 120 or 240 grit on the Dremel?

[Avera]

If I remove more material aft, won't the screw head either bump up against the wall or move below into the skeg causing the magnetic coupler to disengage?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Increase the area you're going to grind away aft; make that after cheat-line parallel with the after edge of the skeg.

Yup -- paper thin! Use a back-light to gage your work as you grind away.

David

[Avera]

Ordered more tools to make the holes and pleasantly noticed that the props are both left and right hand. I am surprised that only one speed controller is used as it would be advantageous to run each motor independently in order to make tighter turns especially in close quarters.

ON a second issue, the area to shave down for the stern plane control is smaller on my model than what is display in the Cabal Report #1(see attached photo). Is this okay and to make the two halves fit the amount of plastic left over in the area is going to be fairly thin.