Revell Type VII Build advice

[Avera]

Well that did not go to plan. I gently tried to pull the valve just far enough to remove the stem and the hose separated at the crushed tubing section. Can't get the two hoses to reconnect unless I remove the ballast tank.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You only need loosen the one you can get at -- the blow valve will then slide out.

David

[Avera]

Hi David,

It arrived assembled and tested.

If you are talking about removing the Schrader valve, it appears to be set with two allen type screws of which one of them cannot be reached from the bottom hole.

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Andrew,

Your blow valve Schrader valve return spring is too tight.

Remove the blow valve from the SD (keep the hose still made up to the on-board bottle, there is enough slack to pull most of the blow valve through the bottom 1" flood-drain hole). Pull out the Schrader valve, grasp the base of the thing and pull the valve element down to compress the internal spring. This will reduce the springs tension, requiring less servo force to achieve a blow.

Re-assemble and sin no more!

Was this a SD kit or did it arrive assembled and tested?

David

[Avera]

Latest update:

Got my SD, radio, receiver, ADF, and Lipo Guard. Connected everything, programed the ADF, filled the ballast and did a test in the tub.

The plane, rudder and throttle controls all seem to work (not connected to the actual parts on the sub as I was testing the SD by itself), but at very low throttle, only one shaft spins, I need to give it a little more juice before both spin. Not sure why.

The SD comes with a speed controller already connected, very nice. However, the website which states that one is required, so I had ordered it. Something to return (I am exchanging it for the SNORT system).

First problem, as I tried to charge the ballast tank, it kept leaking the propellent through the top Schdrader value. It was loose and a little tightening solved that problem.

The second problem is trying to discharge the ballast tank (blow the water out); it does not work. It appears that the Schrader value is way too stiff or there is not enough torque in the servo to pull in the pin on the value. It discharges if I use my fingers and easily empties the tank but not by the servo. I tried adjusting the two blocks that hold and move the lever, but that did not work, the level simply bends without firing the ballast and the servo does not have the strength to pull any further. I did get it to partially fire just once and it emptied only half the tank, but the servo is constantly on (you can hear it - I even tried adjusting the trim controls on the transmitter), not good. The servo does work to empty the ballast of air thru the valve on top. However, until this if remedied, I cannot get the sub to surface.

Other side issues:

I thought the complete SD came with the dog - bone connectors, it did not, so they are on order. I also order the small SNORT system. I am hoping that all those small parts that came with the SD is for that.

I have to figure out how to install a velcro strap to hold the SD in place in the sub. The SD and or fittings kit did not come with a strap or attachment brackets. I guess it is something I am going to have to devise.

So for now, everything but these minor glitches seems to be on track.

Perhaps someone can give me some tips on fixing the discharge value. I really do not want to take apart the center bulkheads.

Thanks,

Andrew

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I suspect the actual anchor's were cast from iron. Also, do to later strategic metals shortages, they even began to cast their propellers from ferrous metals.

David

[Avera]

I know, it is a bit too gold looking. The color is suppose to be bronze and it needs a lot more weathering plus some other colors to give it more of a rust look. Still sorting out which powders and paint to add. It actually has black and brown on it, but the flash on the camera reflects the metallic paint. The rest of the boat will get a lot of weathering effects then a coat of flat clearcoat.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You're welcome, sir. What's with the gold anchor? The Kriegsmarine had a recruiting drive on when you assembled that kit?

[Avera]

Since my last post, I have been working on completing the plastic part assembly and some painting (I could not resist and could not stand looking at that pale light gray plastic mixed with the resin colored parts). I have attached all the fitting parts and now will be ordering the SD and rest of the electronics to begin the trim work. I have made some better photos of my progress. Thanks to everyone for the advice and inspiration, especially David.


Andrew

[vital.spark]

Hello Andrew,

There is a wealth of information on the forum. I suggest you spend the time going over the Cabal reports from David along with all the other previous builds. Here you will find what problems or questions that might arise during and after the build. This does take quite a bit of time to do as you have a lot of verbal nonesense that some members insist of wasting everyones time by including in the foroum replies!!

To speed things up, use some plastic white plastic sheet glued under the deck overlapping about 1/2". I carfully taped on top of the deck and added a bit of glue between the 2 deck pieces. All my subs and workshop is in a shipping container halfway between New Zealand and Hong Kong so I can't give thickneses etc. Caswell used to supply premoulded leat weight and almost 3/4 of the keel was tken up with the lead weights.

I do hope this helps. I tend to like to learn from previous mistakes by reading through the past forum enteries but still make many mistakes in addition!

Regards,

Myron

[Avera]

Hi Folks,

My next two questions:

1) How do you support/connect the deck as one piece? I don't think that the small lip connecting each piece is sufficient.

2) How much lead weight goes in the keel?


Thanks,

Andrew

PS: I added some pictures of my progress, pretty poor quality from my iPod Touch. I'll do better later, this was a quick thing.

[Avera]

Thanks Tom, I truly appreciate your advice and input.

[trout]

Andrew,
your correct, I could not answer about the stern tubes. Don't hold me to the 1/16th size, that is better answered by the maker of the WTC. Yes clamping can be done, for my Gato I used blue painters tape and spaced it far apart (or what ever you need to get it to fit together. Then apply in-between the tape (not letting the glue get under the tape). once it was dry, I removed the tape and applied glue where the tape was.
PEace,
Tom

[Avera]

Hi Trout,

Thanks for the info. I guess you did not know or have an answer for the putty in the stern tubes. I don't see the point of filling them in if I am not using a brass tubing as a prop shaft housing.

As for the Bondene, although you did not state it in your response, but I presume before applying the Bondene, you clamp the halves together.

For #5, yes it is for the push rods, since I don't have them I was not sure of the size needed and wanted to drill the out before assembling them into the hull.

Andrew

[trout]

I can help on some questions.

2) A rat file is a round file that has a slight taper to it
3) Bondene - it is a cohesive meaning it will weld the two halves together. I like to clean the surfaces with some steel wool or fine sand paper (you want to get rid of the oils), I scrub mine in soapy water first, then use 0000 steel wool. You are correct it is very thin and will flow into the crevices by capillary action. I would apply from the outside first and get a good fit and finish later on the inside. You could put a slight camphor or bevel in each side to allow the glue to flow in the channel. If you want test it on a piece of sprue to see the characteristics. It will set pretty quick.
CA is an adhesive which will hold the halves together, can be jarred loose by impact and moisture. So that is the draw back to CA.
4) the dunce cap might be better adhered with RTV silicon, but I will let another person respond to that.
5) do you mean for your pushrods? If you are using 1/16th brass rod, 1/16th drill bit and make it slightly larger than the push rod.

I hope this makes sense or I did not miss your question. If I have let me know, I like making things clear as mud :-)