Swedish A26 or Orka or Blekinge-class - 3D Print to Launch

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  • trout
    Admiral

    • Jul 2011
    • 3764

    #16
    Just got in my new FDM printer..........
    Click image for larger version

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    Testing different print jobs and seeing how it handles a variety of materials. So far Holy Shiitake! My big print will wait for a moment until I get a .2mm printhead. I want to print depth and safety marks into the hull (to David's chagrin). Unfortunately, I already printed my lenses for navigation lights and installed them - so that shipped sailed. Anyways the playing and learning has begun.
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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    • Surcouf
      Lieutenant, Junior Grade

      • Apr 2026
      • 16

      #17
      Congratulations on the printer- that thing looks amazing! I just picked up the H2C this spring, and it has worked really well for me. The 0.2mm nozzle takes a long time to print, especially at the smaller layer heights, but the crispness of the edges on scribed deck lines and depth markings makes it worth it. They say that ASA should not be printed with that size nozzle, but it has worked out for me.

      On my 1/32 scale Type VII, I printed the hull with the 0.4mm nozzle due to the size of the parts and minimal markings, but did the deck and conning tower with the 0.2mm nozzle for more detail.

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      • trout
        Admiral

        • Jul 2011
        • 3764

        #18
        Thanks for sharing your experience! What you describe just gets me more excited. This is the Bambu H3C and it is big. I mean really big. So much so that it will need its own table that sits low so I can add filament with out a step stool (I would definitely need one on my regular print table. Also, what I understand is that with 9 printheads, I can change one print head with the.2mm one and leave the other nozzles at .4mm or even throw in a .6mm. The slicer will figure out what print head is being used and where, making adjustments as needed. In one print job you can use any size print head you want in the same print. Hopefully, I am making sense here, imagine I wanted to print a bulkhead for my WTC and want to print TPU seal inside the bulkhead ( not that I would because of serviceability, but just go with me on this) and fine text for a warning label (like grease this seal) and ABS as the main body, all in one print, I can! Not that I will, but it allows the imagination to go outside the box and be creative. Oh, and with Bambu’s color mixing system, I can print the colors right into my build…….oh I am going to play (and post here). Is it possible I could print a “no paint needed” hull with weathering, scum line, and bird poop on the rudder? I don’t know. The technology is exploding right now (not in an unplanned disassembly way, but in a growth of capabilities way). If I can’t, there are some things I can do, I just need to play and see what that looks like.
        Surcouf, what tips do you have for printing using the .2 mm?
        Last edited by trout; Today, 02:04 AM.
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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        • Surcouf
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade

          • Apr 2026
          • 16

          #19
          I thought the H2C was huge- but yours is really getting up there!

          I have used the 0.2mm nozzle with ASA on both the X1C and H2C. Some of the prints were 22-24 hours for one piece, with the longest being 32 hours. I never had a clog in either setup. I know you have mentioned using ABS, but I would suspect similar results. I had a post about the specific settings I follow when printing in ASA. I do wonder about heat creep in the nozzle/printhead when trying to mix filaments of various temperature settings. The only time I had that with the dual head of the H2C was trying to use PET-G as the support interface layer on the other nozzle. About 30 minutes in to the print, the PET-G jammed in the print head due to the nearby extruder temperature and cabinet temperatures from heat creep. I chose not to use both at the same time again. Maybe it was a fluke, and they may have accommodated that into the programming in Bambu Studio for your model.

          The H2C and H3C make it easier to change nozzle sizes- on the X1C it required screws and little connectors I was always worried about damaging. It is really nice to have all sizes ready to pickup and use as desired- just like you described. The slicing does automatically make decisions on which nozzle/printhead to use, but you have the option to override if you see a reason to do so. The significant advantage you have is using more than one size in the same print as you pointed out. That really opens opportunities to not have compromises in a given object.

          You are going to have fun exploring your new machine’s capabilities.

          Tony

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