Rubis class SNA Perle (S606)

[Albacore 569]

RUBIS CLASS Build Thread

SNA PERLE (S 606)

Model in 1/64 scale.
Model Length 45.25 inches. (1149.35 mm.)
Beam 4.68 inches. (118.8 mm.)


Sous Marin Emeraude (S 604)






Randy Sanders Stern Design







Keith Bender RUBIS Prop

[Albacore 569]

variance in rubis tops rudders

[Akula54]

If you are still interested, i can purchase some drawings with right design/form of the Amethyste class.

[Albacore 569]

If you are still interested, i can purchase some drawings with right design/form of the Amethyste class.

Thank you for the drawing. The sail is already completed (printed) and happy with accuracy, unless you spotted something inaccurate, I missed. If so, can you share, please.

My drawing is close but not accurate enough to be definitive to me. Can you post here from your drawing the stern and its rudder and horizontal plane shapes please?

Your drawing is a big help on the masts. Merci.

[Albacore 569]

Printing of all the Rubis parts should be completed by Monday June 22. 2026. Will be placed in a box separate from Suffren parts work till Suffren is done. I am having extra Suffren dive module supports printed too & will have the outer circumference using my bench disk sander cut down to fit the smaller Rubis hull. I will use U stern plane connectors for the Rubis for the stern planes and rudders. I am using parts refurnished from old subs model no longer in service. (from my old Skip Asay Albacore). A few parts
remaining printing now to be done by Monday


.

[Albacore 569]

All parts printed and set aside , in wings as Suffren finishes. Some new masts being made. Really a generational leap in technology between the Rubis 1980s and Suffrens 2025-2030.

[Albacore 569]

Doing some preliminary changes to the Rubis class so rudders match the Amythyste and Perle top rudders.

Cutting new rudder holes, so rudder and stern plane control rods off set for clearance internally. Aligning with brass tubing as a fixture to keep everything aligned and new brass tubing ridder holes lined up and CA glued & puttied. So straight to the new pivot axis's points.

Upper profile changed to match Perle's upper rudder, this rudder is taller and narrower chord. Rudder silhouette is rounder on top also Use styrene solid stock to block out and shape.

Some touch ups to the sail lower rear, building up with styrene and Bondo putty.

[Akula54]

Doing some preliminary changes to the Rubis class so rudders match the Amythyste and Perle top rudders.

Please, take a look to your PM I've sent to you.
Should help you.

regards

[Albacore 569]

Please, take a look to your PM I've sent to you.
Should help you.

regards

as you hav

Making corrections from stl file. The Randy Sanders STL file is correct for the first 4 boats in class. But last two - Perle and Amythiste rudders are different. Chose Perle because me and Keith Bender agreed Perle easier to spell...lol. Thanks, I got this.

Below shows your build with different rudder shape which I an changing to approx.

[Akula54]

As I mentioned in a private message, I have drawings that can help you create a model with more accurate shapes.
The printed model made by Minialand is right in form, but he took liberties with the technical solutions that I do not agree with. Too bad.

[Albacore 569]

As I mentioned in a private message, I have drawings that can help you create a model with more accurate shapes.
The printed model made by Minialand is right in form, but he took liberties with the technical solutions that I do not agree with. Too bad.

Merci beaucoup. Cela tombe à point nommé.
(Thank you very much. This is timely.)

[Albacore 569]

Using the drawings above. Aluminum tubing leqding edges - simple and works. Vertical rudder holes also shifted back 5 mm.

[DrSchmidt]

Why don't you adjust the CAD model and print it again?

[Albacore 569]

Why don't you adjust the CAD model and print it again?

I don't know how to CAD yet and don't have the patience and 2 years to learn it. The person that designed it was gracious enough to design for me and paid him But he's too busy to make the changes.

I asked him to make a few changes but he didnt.

He's nice but I don't want to push my luck asking him to make more adjusts.

There are other things I need to change too, the casing main hatches are curved to the hull and not flat circular landing pads also. I did a lot of changes to correct the Dolphin Israeli sub model earlier too with same hatches. Its a 35 mm diameter metal washer and I grind away a depression in the hull deck so its flush. And add a scribed in hatch in center that matches the Suffrens and putty and sand. Because I use a metal inexpensive washer, the metal holds its shape effectively when sanding .

Besides the hollow tubing permits a conduit for wiring for a rudder light on top too.

It is far easier to make corrections myself than negotiate or wait more. .

Also, after printing parts my mother board blew in my Any cubic printer, and I cant get parts to replace even this soon after purchasing. The 3dprinters evolve so quickly and its Bull**** parts art not available to repair worldwide after just 24 months.

So, I like 3 d printers when they work, they are miracles. But to learn how to use, the hassles operating and them blowing up. No wonder in You tube 'eductional videos' (jokes) the narrator says this is my 7th new printer. WTF?

So digital or analog, and good ole using my hands and eyeballs, I must press on. These printers are still too easy with just normal use to break their dicks.

Printers are like kids like the line from 'True Lies'. "Kids. 10 seconds of joy, 30 years of misery."