1/72 Virginia Class USS South Dakota

[Timothy L]

Trudging along…… and just a reminder that I am a beginner just trying to share whatever things I might run into that might possibly be of interest to fellow newbies……mistakes and all LOL.

While not specific to the USS South Dakota, today I used 2K polyurethane clear coat for the first time. This will eventually be the clearcoat that I use on the South Dakota so I thought I might share my first experience with it even though the subject model was my 212A. I had stripped its original paint job, repainted with acrylics, and today put on the 2K clearcoat because I wanted something much more durable than my original rattle can clear coat. David Merriman prefers the rugged qualities of this clearcoat and that’s what I was looking for. I tried to read as many of David’s descriptions of using this paint as possible - but in the end I just had to jump in and experiment myself. I did so with a little bit of trepidation but I’m happy with the results and here’s what I’m learning:

The products used were Restoration Shop Urethane (C), Restoration Hardener (H), Restoration Reducer UR-60 (R), and Transtar 6494 Flattening Agent (F).

The mixing ratios were 4 parts C to 1 part H. 2 parts R were then added to thin it. Then 1.5 parts F was added to flatten it. These ratios produced the drying / hardening rate and level of flatness I desired. I got lucky on my first round guess.

The process: spray a wet coat with a wide nozzle Pasche airbrush; wait about 10 minutes for it to flash; spray 2nd wet coat; wait 30 minutes for solvent release; and run IR lamps 15 minutes at 130-140° for quick drying. I will wait another 24 hours before handling set it aside for a week just to be sure that it is cured.

Soooo…….what to share about this with my fellow newbies????? Using 2K is s personal choice - there are lots of easier ways to clearcoat but none will provide the durability of 2K. I guess the first thing I would say is if you’re not particularly into painting, don’t do this. 1st, the products are very expensive (although in the quantities purchased they will last a long time). 2nd, the products are extremely toxic and a bit messy to use. I would say don’t even think about it unless you’re willing to buy the appropriate mask and have a well ventilated area like a garage with doors at both ends. 3rd, it’s pretty easy to screw something up. 4th, I think when I spray the South Dakota I will go from the Pasche to a very small auto shop touchup gun .


If that doesn’t sound like fun, you might just grab your favorite one part clearcoat rattle can and go for it LOL.

I’m pleased with the results I’m glad I ignored the trepidation and tried it. I hope this might help some of you who are doing head scratching about many of these questions on your first sub. Until next time….,

[Timothy L]

My last post seems to have duplicated itself 2X and attempts to delete the duplicates are not working. Sorry about that. Maybe an admin person can delete the 2 extra post duplicates?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Trudging along…… and just a reminder that I am a beginner just trying to share whatever things I might run into that might possibly be of interest to fellow newbies……mistakes and all LOL.

While not specific to the USS South Dakota, today I used 2K polyurethane clear coat for the first time. This will eventually be the clearcoat that I use on the South Dakota so I thought I might share my first experience with it even though the subject model was my 212A. I had stripped its original paint job, repainted with acrylics, and today put on the 2K clearcoat because I wanted something much more durable than my original rattle can clear coat. David Merriman prefers the rugged qualities of this clearcoat and that’s what I was looking for. I tried to read as many of David’s descriptions of using this paint as possible - but in the end I just had to jump in and experiment myself. I did so with a little bit of trepidation but I’m happy with the results and here’s what I’m learning:

The products used were Restoration Shop Urethane (C), Restoration Hardener (H), Restoration Reducer UR-60 (R), and Transtar 6494 Flattening Agent (F).

The mixing ratios were 4 parts C to 1 part H. 2 parts R were then added to thin it. Then 1.5 parts F was added to flatten it. These ratios produced the drying / hardening rate and level of flatness I desired. I got lucky on my first round guess.

The process: spray a wet coat with a wide nozzle Pasche airbrush; wait about 10 minutes for it to flash; spray 2nd wet coat; wait 30 minutes for solvent release; and run IR lamps 15 minutes at 130-140° for quick drying. I will wait another 24 hours before handling set it aside for a week just to be sure that it is cured.

Soooo…….what to share about this with my fellow newbies????? Using 2K is s personal choice - there are lots of easier ways to clearcoat but none will provide the durability of 2K. I guess the first thing I would say is if you’re not particularly into painting, don’t do this. 1st, the products are very expensive (although in the quantities purchased they will last a long time). 2nd, the products are extremely toxic and a bit messy to use. I would say don’t even think about it unless you’re willing to buy the appropriate mask and have a well ventilated area like a garage with doors at both ends. 3rd, it’s pretty easy to screw something up. 4th, I think when I spray the South Dakota I will go from the Pasche to a very small auto shop touchup gun .


If that doesn’t sound like fun, you might just grab your favorite one part clearcoat rattle can and go for it LOL.

I’m pleased with the results I’m glad I ignored the trepidation and tried it. I hope this might help some of you who are doing head scratching about many of these questions on your first sub. Until next time….,

RTFI, all my TM instructors would rattle on in classroom and lab (Read The ****ing Instructions!!!!).

You did just that and hit a home-run on your first outing with this paint/clear-coat system. Not luck. Not at all! Tenacity, attention to the instructions, and a well prepared working environment.

Enough with the humble-pie crap: Your good and you know it. Strut a little; it won't kill you!

Don't bother with the Reducer, Tim. Cut the paint/clear-coat with any quality brand Lacquer thinner and the work will go a bit quicker.

Yeah, get a cheap 2mm touch-up gun from Harbor Freight. Poops out much more product than our old reliable 'hobby' H-model.

David

[Timothy L]

A little better photo….I think I am now a 2K poly fan - but final test will be pond wear…..and I will need more practice to develop good technique (something my fellow newbies should consider if thinking about 2K poly).

[Timothy L]

[Despite DM’s kind encouragement (tnx), I am compelled to include this repeated reminder: I am a beginner just trying to share whatever things I might run into that might possibly be of interest to fellow newbies - I am no expert by any means. LOL proceed at your own risk]

With a little more time available then in previous months I can now proceed to the lower hull. Earlier I suggested to fellow newbies that maneuverability is something to be aware of when choosing your first sub. What will the turn radius be? Can you improve it? Can you accept limitations of a large turning radius?

I determined that I really, really wanted to build the South Dakota because I was fortunate enough to tour it inside and out at Groton (thank you SUBEX!). From the outset I accepted the fact that maneuverability could be a challenge. I also knew that I am a builder who will (within limits) prioritize functionality over scale. One could, for example, try the ND swiveling stern. I looked at and decided it was way too much of a departure from scale for me.

So I have decided to experiment with an enlarged bottom Becker rudder combined (possibly) with reversible bow and stern water pumps. So, fellow newbies, I think a good question to ask is how comfortable are you with experimenting? Are you willing to try different ideas knowing you might need to return to the drawing board? LOL, I think I am - but I may have to revisit the question after I return to the drawing board one time too many!

Below is a photo of three rudders. The top left is the standard scale rudder for a Virginia class; the top right Is a sleeve to enlarge the standard rudder. Below that are the two parts combined. And below that is my even larger scratch built Becker rudder in process. my prioritizing functionality over scale can accept a large rudder that is not particularly visible on the surface. Others may be extremely uncomfortable with that. Decisions, decisions Jerry Lee!!!!

Another departure I made from scale is the prop. I have chosen to use a brass scimitar prop instead of a rotor. Again, it’s my boat and my choice. And I guess that’s something I want to emphasize to lurking newbies / even though it should be obvious. You will be building this boat for you, not for others - you can do anything you want!!!

That’s all for now!

[RazorAntilles]

Looking good! Where did you source your prop from?

[Timothy L]

Thank you. The prop was made to my specs by Simon at the Prop Shop in the UK. It was an original casting so to reduce per unit cost I had 4 made: 2 for me and 2 for ND. Simon has always been terrific to work with. I have many props from him for my surface ships - great quality.

[Timothy L]

[Ongoing repeated reminder: I am a beginner just trying to share whatever foibles I might run into that might possibly be of interest to fellow newbies - I am no expert by any means. LOL proceed at your own risk]

For newbies like me (and probably you if you decided to keep reading LOL) there can be many small victories and moments of satisfaction - nothing thrilling or unique - just satisfying.

Today was one of those satisfying days and the key word for fellow newbs is “accessibility”. From the get-go remember that the completed sub must be “maintainable”. You need to be able to access anything that can break or get out of wack. You know how David Merriman often refers to “mission checks” - the idea of always thoroughly checking your sub before and after your mission? Well you can’t do that very well if problem areas are not accessible!

The stern of my South Dakota is basically a long pointy tube not designed for clumsy arthritic fingers LOL. Servo linkages and drive train go through that narrow canal - so putting in the servo links etc and permanently gluing in the pointy stern is probably something you want to avoid.

For me the solution was to attach the stern “cone” with four 2-56 screws and nuts AND making sure I had the proper long handled narrow screwdriver to reach the screws. The nuts were epoxy resined into the cone so that the screw heads face the bow. It was a little tricky to do - but I did it! Now if I need to get at the internal stern mechanisms, I’m all set.

I know this sounds like moronically simple stuff compared to the info / work shared by the amazing craftsmen on the DT - BUT I just know there’s a few newbies out there who are down at my level - who might benefit from my simple shares - trudge on!!!!!

[Timothy L]

[Ongoing repeated reminder: I am a beginner just trying to share whatever foibles I might run into that might possibly be of interest to fellow newbies - I am no expert by any means - so proceed at your own risk!]

Today I was able to finish up the control linkages and I’m very pleased with them. I did not like the 3D printed yokes that came with the hull so I made my own out of brass. It was a bit tricky but I learned a lot

Hmmmm…,,,so (scratching head) what can I share with my fellow newbies? I must confess I occasionally wonder if there are other newbies out there. I mean you do need to be a little wacko to get into RC subs when your skill set is about two steps away from a plastic kit builder LOL!!!

Anyway here are thoughts regarding making fittings. Don’t panic when you see the “Rolls Royce” of fittings that master craftsman on this forum create! If you don’t have s lathe or a machine shop, it’s not a problem. All you really need is the ability to make bending jigs out of wooden blocks and an understanding of soldering.

For jigs, I make different wooden shapes that are glued to a building board after I think about how I need to make the bends. Once my jigs are solidly in place making the bends is a piece of cake. Although not talking about railings in this post, I want to add railings shouldn’t freak you out because it’s very easy to make a nice jig to make perfect railing every time - maybe keep that in the back of your mind if you decide to build a WWII sub.


For soldering 99% of the time I use the same kind of electric iron that stain glass artists use. For tiny wires used fir deck railings a small electronics iron is more appropriate. Also spend a few minutes on the Internet so that you make sure you’re using the right flux and solder. There’s a big difference between soldering stainless steel and soldering brass. it’ll just take you a few minutes to check it out and then it will save you lots of hassle.

Very basic stuff but with luck these mutterings may be of help!