British T-class

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  • Kazzer
    replied
    Originally posted by VanguardUK
    Told you - You no Listen!:D
    Yes, he no listen!:D

    Originally Posted by toppack
    I've drilled 15ea large 5/16" holes in botton of keel,
    Kazzer said -
    Hmmm! Pity about that, you'll probably need to fill the entire keel with lead shot & epoxy etc. then re-drill it. Its a big boat and needs a good bit of low lying ballast. If I ever did one again, I'd drill those holes to the side of the keel.
    15 x 5/16" holes will make a huge difference in the stability. So, fill 'em in with lead/shot etc.

    The further away the lead is from the center of gravity, (I think that would usually be the waterline?) the more effect it will have, so it's vital to pack as much into the keel as possible. Also consider making dive plane guards from aluminum. An ounce or two saved above the waterline now becomes a real priority.

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  • toppack
    replied
    Originally posted by VanguardUK
    Told you - You no Listen!:D
    Yep, 'I Believe You' Now! :D LOL :D
    How far down did your external weight hang below the keel? Do you remember how much lead (weight) you had inside and outside of keel?
    Do you have pictures of internal and external ballast weights?
    Last edited by toppack; 04-28-2009, 03:59 PM.

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  • VanguardUK
    replied
    Originally posted by toppack
    The first test indications were Very Wrong! When I got everything installed 'she Rolled lake a dead whale'. :eek:
    :confused:
    Told you - You no Listen!:D

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  • toppack
    replied
    Originally posted by toppack
    I won't need much lead weight in the keel. It seemed fairly stable and level, in the hot-tub, but have not tested it yet with everything assembled.
    The first test indications were Very Wrong! When I got everything installed 'she Rolled lake a dead whale'. :eek:
    Surprizing what the weight of motors and servos can do. :( (about 45 deg roll)
    So, In go the lead bars now and I'll see how it does.
    Sure hope I don't have to hang any lead on outside of keel! :confused:
    Last edited by toppack; 04-28-2009, 03:58 PM.

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  • toppack
    replied
    Looks like I'll have working torpedos using the 7/16" plastic fish-tank Tubing and AAAA NiCd battery. The AAA batteries are a little too large diameter (fits too tight) and too heavy. This plastic tubing does not float but only takes 1 little air-bubble to make it float, since it's so light. It's plenty strong and ridged, tho.
    Got to design and fabricate the magnetically activated switches next, which may be the most difficult parts to make function properly.

    I have all the flotation-foam installed in the hull. Since the SLA battery I'm using weighs over 6.pounds, I won't need much lead weight in the keel. It seemed fairly stable and level, in the hot-tub, but have not tested it yet with everything assembled.
    Last edited by toppack; 04-28-2009, 12:24 PM.

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  • Kazzer
    replied
    Originally posted by toppack
    While waiting for Mike to find some 'Floating Tubing', ---------------
    I suppose I have Plenty of time tho, since I'm Waiting for Mike. ;)
    You'll be waiting a long time!

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  • toppack
    replied
    I found and ordered some more 7/16" plastic tube, that is supposed to be thinner walled and lighter.
    Hopefully this will to the job. I'll drink to THAT!
    I rechecked the weight of the AAA battery and it really is only .43 ounces (or 12.2 grams) I thought I may have made a mistake on that weight but that's what I had before. The battery is only thing in it that is a little heavy, if you can call .43 ounces Heavy. :D
    Last edited by toppack; 04-18-2009, 06:01 PM.

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  • toppack
    replied
    While waiting for Mike to find some 'Floating Tubing', I decided to work on the Base/stand for the T-class.
    I had put a coat of Mahogany stain and then a coat of clear varnish, but for some reason the varnish dried lumpy. I guess it's getting old, like everything else around here. :rolleyes:
    Then when I tried to sand it I wasn't careful enough and sanded thru the stain along some edges. What a mess!
    Now I've put on more stain to try to fix it. I'm waiting for that to dry now.
    I suppose I have Plenty of time tho, since I'm Waiting for Mike. ;)

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  • toppack
    replied
    Nope, I don't like to take pictures of my Failed designs. :D LOL
    I need to find a design that works well, first. ;)
    Then I'll take pics. :)
    I think I'll work on hull details some more, and think about this torpedo 'thing' a while.
    ;)
    I've got to make them lighter somehow, I'll try AAAA battery next tho, that should help.
    Last edited by toppack; 04-16-2009, 04:29 PM.

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  • VanguardUK
    replied
    Originally posted by toppack
    Well, I got my first prototype torpedo assembled and sealed, but there was a little problem, It Doesn't Float! :(
    With that AAA battery installed, it sinks like a rock. :D

    Oh well, as they say, 'Back to the drawing board'. :rolleyes:
    Any pictures

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  • toppack
    replied
    Well, I got my first prototype torpedo assembled and sealed, but there was a little problem, It Doesn't Float! :(
    With that AAA battery installed, it sinks like a rock. :D

    Oh well, as they say, 'Back to the drawing board'. :rolleyes:
    Last edited by toppack; 04-16-2009, 02:33 PM.

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  • toppack
    replied
    Looks like I'll need to assemble at least one torpedo, before I can complete the launch-tube assembly, so I can be sure to locate the trigger-pins and turn-off-magnets in the correct locations, in the tubes.
    I was hopeing to be able to complete the model and test it before taking the time to do the torpedos, but can't do it that way and still make sure everything lines-up properly. :rolleyes: Since the tubes assembly needs to be in model before I can finish it.
    The bow-planes mounting-bracket is also a hold-down for rear of launch-tubes, which saved space and weight, and it acts as guide for trigger linkage rods also.
    Last edited by toppack; 04-14-2009, 04:10 PM.

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  • toppack
    replied
    For such a large model as the T-class, it's really surprizing how Little space is available in stern for rudder-arm and in upper-bow for torpedo-tubes. :eek:
    I've had to modify my original design of the tubes several times, to try to get everything to fit.
    I now think I have a working design, tho. :)

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  • toppack
    replied
    The problem I have with a permanently attached and positioned ballast-weight is determining exactly where it needs to be, before the model is completed with everything installed?
    (When working with a new unknown hull design)
    I like to have the ballast weight adjustable when possible.
    Especially since I don't know yet how large and heavy a battery I can use in it, which will be a large part of the weight balance.
    Last edited by toppack; 04-13-2009, 11:01 AM.

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  • VanguardUK
    replied
    Originally posted by kazzer
    Hmmm! Pity about that, you'll probably need to fill the entire keel with lead shot & epoxy etc. then re-drill it. Its a big boat and needs a good bit of low lying ballast. If I ever did one again, I'd drill those holes to the side of the keel.
    I fitted a 1/2 inch square x 2 foot long false lead keel onto mine & faired the ends in with filler, once painted you coudln't notice it.

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