Albacore continued

[greenman407]

Dave, if you look at the third picture of the Dry Transfers you will notice 4 sets of them that go from 1 to 8 but they are curved. Where do they go?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looking good, Mark. I did the art-work for those markings -- at the time I was working closely with SKIP to produce the kit. I have no idea why things were fiddled to give the over-size sail hull numbers.

The 3" SD masters are done. Hope to have tooling and the first set of parts next week.

David

[greenman407]

Out my back door, Old Tampa Bay.

[greenman407]

In the first picture , note the size of the sail numbers. The ones that came with the kit are at least 50% larger. Since this sub will be used for attacking Rogue Alphas and renegade 212s and the occasional kidnapped Indian Akula, we dont want to be identified. So, we will leave the numbers off. Oh,.... whatll we do about offensive weapons? AAAWWW, well just trade paint.

[greenman407]

These two pictures provide some clues as to the depth marking locations.

[greenman407]

Ive had these dry transfers around forever. They came with the original Subtek kit. What a mess that was. Im trying not to remind myself. It really tested my metal. The large numbers are too big for the sail. So I think that Ill just leave them off. The only thing usefull are the depth markings. I just have to look at my pictures and try to figure out what goes where.

[greenman407]

My Goal is to get the bottom half painted as well this week along with application of Dry Transfers and then Dullcoat it to remove the gloss. Next weeks goal will be to get the props repainted and mounted along with the drive mechanism. Then itll be time to start work on the Sub driver. Depending on Daves schedule, I can either wait for the new Subdriver from him or I can begin to revamp my old one. Time will tell.

[trout]

My mistake for not reading closely. I struggle with, what is correct color with regards to models? Some people scale the color down, others do not. When I did competitions, there are wild debates and disagreements. Now, I do not compete and paint to what I like. Let the rivet counting, paint patrolling, tire measuring, know it alls chase somewhere else - WOW I have some anger to let go of there. LOL

[greenman407]

Trout, the picture above was taken without the flash. However, i will try your tissue idea. Thanks

[trout]

Can your camera not use the flash? If not, try folding a tissue over the flash and take a picture (there are other materials as well, but for a quick fix Kleenex tissue will work). A couple of things should happen, the tissue will disburse the harshness of direct flash and then the sensors should adjust and give adequate exposure. Give it a try.

[greenman407]

Look, Here is a picture, without the flash, of the hull painted Charcoal Grey next to a oil sample bottle that is truly Flat black. The flash makes the hull look too lite.

[greenman407]

Points well taken. But, thats not primer, thats the final coat. I Think??

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Also, Dave, Did you say that we should avoid Floquil products as not being durable enough? I ask this because the stuff is great to work with and is readily available.

... and fertilizer is readily available too. But, I would not recommend it for this use either!

Floquil is not durable. It's formulated to serve as a thin coating of clear films (flat to gloss) and pigmented paint, to be applied to static display models and model trains -- things not subject to the abrasive, dynamic environment suffered by practical r/c model submarines. Krylon and the other box-store rattle-can paints are not my first choice, but better than most one-part hobby shop paints!

Dark, dark gray requires little, little white mixed with the black .... STOP SCREWING WITH ME!!!!

You're making this much harder than it has to be, hydroplane-boy!

And that last shot of spray primer on your long suffering ALBACORE: You laid it on way, way too thick, Mark. A bunch of light 'mist' coats, allowed to flash between applications, is the way to go. I'll bet you have chipping/cracking issues down the road.

David

(The Voice of Doom!)

[greenman407]

Questions.....Questions.......So many Questions. Can you tell that this project was not very well thought out?

[greenman407]

Also, Dave, Did you say that we should avoid Floquil products as not being durable enough? I ask this because the stuff is great to work with and is readily available.