Gwen's Nautilus design as described by Jules Verne - Discussion- Everyone welcome.

[GwenB]

Oh yeah, that's some fascinating stuff that looks like it works very well. What is GRP? I'm not familiar with it.

PS- Why do I keep saying "Oh yeah"?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Oh yeah, that's some fascinating stuff that looks like it works very well. What is GRP? I'm not familiar with it.

PS- Why do I keep saying "Oh yeah"?

GRP. Glass Reinforced Plastic. Fiberglass.

[GwenB]

GRP. Glass Reinforced Plastic. Fiberglass.

Aha, do you have a link to the stuff? I'm curious. Unless it's just standard fiberglass layup... then I already know what it is.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Aha, do you have a link to the stuff? I'm curious. Unless it's just standard fiberglass layup... then I already know what it is.

Nothing fancy, no vacuum-bagging, just one-atmosphere hand lay-up of glass saturated with a resin.

[GwenB]

Nautilus-Gwen.pdf Here's an update to the Nautilus drawings.

[Subculture]

A skipjack hull would get you nine tenths of the way towards that hull shape. The bow would need to be a bit sharper in profile, you could achieve that with a simple scree tool and some polyester putty.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[ATTACH]n167966[/ATTACH] Here's an update to the Nautilus drawings.

This one makes more sense:



Your horizontal planes, with their high aspect ratio, will be damaged, as will the rudder linkage. As the pitching propeller I recommend is a cheat hide the linkage within the hull. If your wheelhouse retracts, retract it all the way. Putting the rudder low, protected by a skeg is the smart move, and the operating shaft goes up into the hull eliminating any external operating linkage.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but your interpretation is too delicate to put up with ramming attacks.

What about the propeller; it's high aspect ratio blades just asking to get dinged by wreckage. hinge its blades at the hub so they swing aft when hit by wreckage.

David
.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

A skipjack hull would get you nine tenths of the way towards that hull shape. The bow would need to be a bit sharper in profile, you could achieve that with a simple scree tool and some polyester putty.

Demonstrating what Andy suggests:

[Bob Gato]

Hi Gwen, the type VII looks great! The Nemo/Jules Vern Nautilus is a great subject but I think styrene might be a little tough to work with...also I hope you are planning to remove the the station formers after the hull is built and stable. Those formers will take up a lot of precious internal real estate . Might I suggest a monocoque GRP hull in Polyester-I have found that I could do two to three layups in the time it takes epoxy to cure and at 1/2 the price.
In 2003, I built a 1:64 Cod by using plywood formers covered with spackling self stick fiberglass mesh from the big box home store (similar to the attached picture) in a crisscross multi layer fashion. It conforms readily to compound curves -then using a credit card and some polyester body putty lightly squeegeed (in thin layers) onto the mesh to produce a strong master. Then I used Ultracal 30 (Molding Plaster) to cast a right and left mold. This method is both cheap and easy. (LOL) -just another option

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hi Gwen, the type VII looks great! The Nemo/Jules Vern Nautilus is a great subject but I think styrene might be a little tough to work with...also I hope you are planning to remove the the station formers after the hull is built and stable. Those formers will take up a lot of precious internal real estate . Might I suggest a monocoque GRP hull in Polyester-I have found that I could do two to three layups in the time it takes epoxy to cure and at 1/2 the price.
In 2003, I built a 1:64 Cod by using plywood formers covered with spackling self stick fiberglass mesh from the big box home store (similar to the attached picture) in a crisscross multi layer fashion. It conforms readily to compound curves -then using a credit card and some polyester body putty lightly squeegeed (in thin layers) onto the mesh to produce a strong master. Then I used Ultracal 30 (Molding Plaster) to cast a right and left mold. This method is both cheap and easy. (LOL) -just another option

That is, SLICK!!!! I'll file this trick for a future project I'm thinking of. Great potential with this trick, Bob.

[GwenB]

Hi Gwen,

Here is my take on your build! 3D printing is another great option in my opinion!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235039

A good 3D printer is becoming more affordable all the time. I DO NOT want to suggest that 3D printing a sub is better or worse than the old school masters that are on this forum! It is just another option that I use and have had great success with it.





Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

Absolutely beautiful Rob! I love it! And I agree with Dave - that is a really slick building method you used there.

I agree about the GRP hull rather than stryrene. At this point I am pretty sure I will end up using the foam layer cake and GRP layup method. I do wish I had a 3D printer though.

Update - oops, I confused Bob and Rob. Sorry guys.

[GwenB]

This one makes more sense:

​

Your horizontal planes, with their high aspect ratio, will be damaged, as will the rudder linkage. As the pitching propeller I recommend is a cheat hide the linkage within the hull. If your wheelhouse retracts, retract it all the way. Putting the rudder low, protected by a skeg is the smart move, and the operating shaft goes up into the hull eliminating any external operating linkage.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but your interpretation is too delicate to put up with ramming attacks.

What about the propeller; it's high aspect ratio blades just asking to get dinged by wreckage. hinge its blades at the hub so they swing aft when hit by wreckage.

David
.

I'm not sure I agree about the dive planes. They are placed below the hull centerline and well aft of the ram. They also are slightly tapered toward the tips to help deflect debris, although I might want to lengthen them longitudinally to provide more strength. As for the propeller being damaged - if you notice I have a set of three rings around the propeller and was planning to add a screen-like grill that covers the gaps between them. On the wheelhouse - If I recall correctly Verne said that Nemo could see ahead through the front of the wheelhouse during attacks. If the wheelhouse is retracted all the way the porthole will be facing directly upward. I will see what other designs I can come up with for it. Perhaps making the forward porthole rectangular and set into the front of the deck would allow full retraction of the wheelhouse.

I'll think about these...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm not sure I agree about the dive planes. They are placed below the hull centerline and well aft of the ram. They also are slightly tapered toward the tips to help deflect debris, although I might want to lengthen them longitudinally to provide more strength. As for the propeller being damaged - if you notice I have a set of three rings around the propeller and was planning to add a screen-like grill that covers the gaps between them. On the wheelhouse - If I recall correctly Verne said that Nemo could see ahead through the front of the wheelhouse during attacks. If the wheelhouse is retracted all the way the porthole will be facing directly upward. I will see what other designs I can come up with for it. Perhaps making the forward porthole rectangular and set into the front of the deck would allow full retraction of the wheelhouse.

I'll think about these...

Fair enough on the planes. Yes, a screen is the better solution for the propeller. As to visibility for the helmsman when the wheelhouse is retracted: place a shallow, sloping well atop the superstructure to provide visibility upwards when the wheelhouse is retracted. Like the Gemini capsule ports, or ICERUS windows.

[GwenB]

Nautilus-Gwen4.pdf OK, here's the latest revision. The wheelhouse is now fully retractable. The portholes line up when it is retracted. I added a pair of vertical fins rather than the four arms to support the aft rings and rudder as well as provide additional protection for the propeller and more yaw stability. The rudder mounting ring was removed. I significantly narrowed and lengthened the dive planes to make them less likely to take damage. In order to make the changes to the wheelhouse it was necessary to lower the ceiling in the Salon.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nautilus-Gwen4.pdf OK, here's the latest revision. The wheelhouse is now fully retractable. The portholes line up when it is retracted. I added a pair of vertical fins rather than the four arms to support the aft rings and rudder as well as provide additional protection for the propeller and more yaw stability. The rudder mounting ring was removed. I significantly narrowed and lengthened the dive planes to make them less likely to take damage. In order to make the changes to the wheelhouse it was necessary to lower the ceiling in the Salon.

The three strakes that radiate from the bow spike: make the top one extended as a cutwater terminating just in front of the wheelhouse front deadlight -- the tip of that cut-water level with the deck atop the superstructure. Planes make more sense now. Get rid of the external propeller pitching horns. That rudder is still vulnerable, recommend you put it down low in back of a skeg. That puts the rudder operating shaft internal at the stern with its linkage inside.