The hull bottom is almost completely glued together and it is shaping up nicely. I will bolt the stern to the hull using threaded inserts allowing it to be removable. I had to make a slight change to the forward propulsor ring to extend the flange in order to allow for small screws to secure the aft shroud. I also designed a new shroud as the Jimmy Carter's is longer than the regular Seawolf. As a result I also designed a new impeller very similar to my Columbia to fit it. All together it nets out at 113" as expected which will just fit in the middle of my trailer.
The CF tubes installed to strengthen the hull. I will do the same with the top.
Close up of the same where the extension is located with my custom tube anchors.
The stock holes in the flanges helped to position and align everything as straight as possible. Its almost time to make a cradle for it.
1/48 3D Printed USS Jimmy Carter
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1200 hour printing divided by 24 hours in a day = 50 days.
StevenLeave a comment:
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Just to put things into perspective. Started June 4th. The build surface is an interior hollow core door. About half of this is actually tweaked and glued together (from the bow to the sanding marks). The bow is just taped on as it will be glued to the upper hull. There are two more stern parts to print for the lower hull. The propulsor shroud will need a minor mod to make it removable. Dang I need another Ender 5+.
Your "Jimmy Carter" is really going to be spectacular! It's presents in the water will really be something to see! What you are doing with 3D printing is to be admired, and you have certainly taken the process to new heights for sure! Nobody in this hobby admires and respects the masters more than I do, those that built subs using skills and talents that brought this hobby to what it is today! It's my opinion that 3D printing will be the new wave of the future for this hobby, and it will only get better with new tech-knowledge and materials to work with.
Steve! You are at forefront of this new tech-knowledge, keep up the great work you are doing!! :-))
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Leave a comment:
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Just to put things into perspective. Started June 4th. The build surface is an interior hollow core door. About half of this is actually tweaked and glued together (from the bow to the sanding marks). The bow is just taped on as it will be glued to the upper hull. There are two more stern parts to print for the lower hull. The propulsor shroud will need a minor mod to make it removable. Dang I need another Ender 5+.
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Hey Casey, I have so much going on that I will be just trying to get it painted by then. The Oberon I have been working on is now done so my next order of business is to get Vaughn his Typhoon and I still have a few things I have to do to prepare for Subfest.👍 1Leave a comment:
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Hey Steve, part of this for me is an experiment in pushing limits which I enjoy doing. This is the biggest sub I have printed so far so I am looking to see just how strong I can make the hull at this scale. Thank you for the compliments on my Thresher. It is a personal favorite of mine.Leave a comment:
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I would be skeptical of a project this size if I had not seen your Permit in-person. Easily one of the cleanest, best engineered RC subs I've ever seen. Looking forward to this build!Leave a comment:
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Hi Steve,
What a boat that will be! Nice job!
I used the same type holes with 1/8" brass rod on both my Alfa boats and they really work well keeping everything lined up, especially using PLA.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Leave a comment:
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Three parts into this project. At this scale the holes in the front and rear flanges will fit 6mm Carbon Fiber tubes so I am going to build the hull using three tubes in the top and three in the bottom for each straight length of the hull. Not only will they be used for alignment of the sections but they will add considerable strength.
Don't be deceived, that hull is almost 10" wide.
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Ok, Randy got me the corrected files and they look great. Reprinting Hull Bottom 7 now. I let the original part finish printing because I wanted to see how the front flange with the beveled back side would print and at this scale it did the same thing I had experienced on the Typhoon although not as bad. As a result I have flipped the orientation so that the beveled flange is on the bed. It should print fine now without drawing in the outside surfaces where the beveled flange is.Last edited by SubDude; 06-17-2022, 08:46 AM.Leave a comment:
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