3D printed 1/72nd scale Los Angeles class submarine

[rwtdiver]

Latest progress. I designed and printed some brackets to secure the sub-driver with some hair bands. It works great and very simple. Now the WTC is installed. I also finished the pushrods for the stern planes and installed the drive shift and prop. A simple support bracket holds the pushrods in place to connect to the pushrod magnets from the WTC when the stern section is twist-locked in place. Then I designed and printed a bracket to hold the fairwater planes servo and connected its linkage. I also, soldered up the harness for the servo. After that I painted a dark grey stripe on the top of the hull to simulate anti-skid and finally designed and printed some aft mooring cleats. All in all a very productive evening.









Left to do is install the snorkel, install the fairwater planes servo harness in the WTC, apply graphics which have been ordered, add some more weathering and then trim it. This one will definitely be ready for Sub Fest and there is still a chance the Ohio will make it as well but if not no big deal. This LA will give me three boats to take in addition to the Redoutable and Nautilus.

What a great looking Boat Steve! I am so impressed with your workmanship! I REALLY LIKE your idea with the sail planes, Using a servo in place of all that linkage from the bow end of the boat to the sail!
I may try to incorporate that idea into my Skipjack build!

Great job Steve, looking forward to seeing her in the water!!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SubDude]

Thanks Rob. For the sail servo, because it is in the wet, I sprayed it full of CorrosionX HD to make it waterproof. The stuff is amazing. It brought a receiver back to life that had gotten damp and completely quit working. I honestly thought it was beyond hope but it is working once again. I spray it in my receivers now too just as a precaution along with any other electronic devices like AD2's or BLM's. Anything that isn't already considered waterproof that is.

[rwtdiver]

Thanks Rob. For the sail servo, because it is in the wet, I sprayed it full of CorrosionX HD to make it waterproof. The stuff is amazing. It brought a receiver back to life that had gotten damp and completely quit working. I honestly thought it was beyond hope but it is working once again. I spray it in my receivers now too just as a precaution along with any other electronic devices like AD2's or BLM's. Anything that isn't already considered waterproof that is.

Thanks for the info as to what can be done to waterproof a servo! I have looked at Bob Martins video on how he has waterproofed servos as well. Those little 9g servos are not that expensive, and if you lost one ounce in a while it might be worth it. Your idea for the servo really makes that dive plane action so much more positive without all the extra linkage! Good idea Steve!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SubDude]

She got wet for the first time today. Made good progress trimming it out. Still more to do but its almost done. I couldn't be more pleased with how it has turned out.

[rwtdiver]

Steve,

That Boat is going to look REAL GOOD at the up coming Sub Fest, if you go!! Great job Steve!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SubDude]

Yes, I plan to be there. It is such a fantastic place to have a regatta and I am really looking forward to it. I will have this boat, my Redoutable and the Nautilus with me.

[SubDude]

Ok, here is a video of the boat in the pool. Trimming is looking good.

[trout]

Excellent. Well done.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ok, here is a video of the boat in the pool. Trimming is looking good.

A few chunks of foam above waterline to insure that the boat's just a tad positive in submerged trim and you're good to go. What a beauty!

[SubDude]

A few chunks of foam above waterline to insure that the boat's just a tad positive in submerged trim and you're good to go. What a beauty!

Thank you sir! I have added some foam. Also some extra air holes as it is holding on to some air in the hull. It will submerge on its own to periscope depth and sit there but if you tilt it in the water just a little the rest of the air comes out and it will slowly sink. I am not sure what more I can do.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you sir! I have added some foam. Also some extra air holes as it is holding on to some air in the hull. It will submerge on its own to periscope depth and sit there but if you tilt it in the water just a little the rest of the air comes out and it will slowly sink. I am not sure what more I can do.

Those remaining, stubborn bubbles will find their way out once you start maneuvering under water -- rolling and pitching the boat.

Do this: add a bit more foam way up over the c.g.; get the boat into submerged trim, while holding it underwater, shake out the evil bubbles and check for buoyancy in that condition. Play with the foam -- you want about a half-inch of sail sticking into the air. That will always get you back to the surface as long as you kill the headway at any depth above five feet. Below that depth (I'm being arbitrary here, the specific transition depth is unique to each boat) box-compression will negate what little reserve buoyancy you had set into the submerged boat. Dead in the water at or below the transition depth the boat will slowly creep to the bottom, accelerating as it goes ever deeper owing to the boats displacement diminishing as things (foam, air-filled spaces) increase in density because of hydrostatic force.

[rwtdiver]

A few chunks of foam above waterline to insure that the boat's just a tad positive in submerged trim and you're good to go. What a beauty!

WOW Steve!

I hope that SOMEDAY I will have just one of my Boats look and do what yours have! For being somewhat new to this hobby (Submarines) you are already a master!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SubDude]

Those remaining, stubborn bubbles will find their way out once you start maneuvering under water -- rolling and pitching the boat.

Do this: add a bit more foam way up over the c.g.; get the boat into submerged trim, while holding it underwater, shake out the evil bubbles and check for buoyancy in that condition. Play with the foam -- you want about a half-inch of sail sticking into the air. That will always get you back to the surface as long as you kill the headway at any depth above five feet. Below that depth (I'm being arbitrary here, the specific transition depth is unique to each boat) box-compression will negate what little reserve buoyancy you had set into the submerged boat. Dead in the water at or below the transition depth the boat will slowly creep to the bottom, accelerating as it goes ever deeper owing to the boats displacement diminishing as things (foam, air-filled spaces) increase in density bcause of hydrostatic force.

Will do. Thank you for the input.

[SubDude]

WOW Steve!

I hope that SOMEDAY I will have just one of my Boats look and do what yours have! For being somewhat new to this hobby (Submarines) you are already a master!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

Lol! I wouldn't go that far. I think it is a lot of trial and error. Keep plugging away at it and observe and learn as you go. That is all I have tried to do. You have made some nice boats from what I have seen. I am not doing anything special.

[rwtdiver]

Lol! I wouldn't go that far. I think it is a lot of trial and error. Keep plugging away at it and observe and learn as you go. That is all I have tried to do. You have made some nice boats from what I have seen. I am not doing anything special.

Thanks Steve! But they have all just been surface runners! With some help with setting up my Sub Driver, I think my Skipjack will be the one!

Looking forward to seeing the photos and video of your LA Class doing it's thing at Sub Fest!! Have a great time!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"