Correct. easy fix just turn it the other way around. The thread goes all the way through and into the dunce cap. Thank you David!!!
1/48 Type 214 costumer build
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Why use a vice to thread a shaft when you have a drill press in the back ground. Put the shaft in the chuck, and put the die holder on the drill press bed, then just work the drill chuck by hand. the chuck will grip the rod much better, and also ensure your thread is square. Filing a chamfer on the shaft will help start the thread much easier, and use a bit of oil or grease on the die to help the cutting action.👍 1Comment
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Why use a vice to thread a shaft when you have a drill press in the back ground. Put the shaft in the chuck, and put the die holder on the drill press bed, then just work the drill chuck by hand. the chuck will grip the rod much better, and also ensure your thread is square. Filing a chamfer on the shaft will help start the thread much easier, and use a bit of oil or grease on the die to help the cutting action.Comment
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Oh and I learned a new definition for a submarine prop piece. Vortex attenuator. Thank you David for my continuing education.
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Sanding filling and preening. That was my day. After primer it was apparent all the flaws in the castings of the resin parts I would have to preen some more with air cure red putty. But over all I have had worse and things ended well.
Large seams, bubbles, even warps in what should be straight edges are all straightened with a heat gun, sand paper, putty and a sharp eye. With that said this boat is shaping up nicely. As always its more work than one would have thought originally before starting. They usually are but somethings you are surprised and they just melt together flawlessly. These kits whether they be a model boat, airplane, or submarine are rare.
I placed all the brass, well most of it. When the hull isn't exactly proportional it becomes and exercise in what looks good to the eye. Apparently the deck towards the bow narrows a tad. Not a lot but enough that using a straight edge to line the two sections of brass up lead to the bow section being a little off to the right. Not so on the stern.
All the vents and grills are open to sea to help relieve trapped air under the deck. The brass work is really nice and once I put primer they really make the deck pop. Originally all this detail was scribed into the deck. I could see it when I sanded down the deck to install the brass PE.
Today more fixing and final primer. Install the WTC mounts, control yokes to the appendages. Cut out the NAV light stations and make the parts to house them. PETG for the lens covers.
Good build. Nice big boat.
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Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be NamedYou've pretty much beat this thing into submission, Steve. Now you have a sharp looking boat! Elbow-grease, and determination -- the one-two punch of good model builders. Well done, sir.
DavidComment
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Thanks guys it's very nice of you all to say. It doesn't get any easier as we get older. There are aches and pains, one of my thumbs has arthritis and can be quite excruciating at times but this work has the amazing capacity to allow oneself to ignore it while deeply focused on the task in front of you. This is why we never stop. If you do it can mean certain death. I have seen it among my old friends that at my own age and even younger gave up and lost there passion. Another words kids this stuff is keeping us alive longer.
With that said I worked all day on the boat. I didn't mean to I have the Enterprise to finish for a customer and out studio products to work on which one of is of course the Dragon Capsule. This was started a few months back as one of our model rocket kit series. Also we have a Patreon site and a few subscribers and the ones that subscribe at 10 dollars or more get a free kit as our way of saying thanks. The capsule has a Falcon 9 launch vehicle that goes with it. BT-60 based and flies on D-E engines.
I found that the WTC mounts sat too low for the WTC to be it the preferred position. So I added thick styrene extensions and carefully got the prop drive shaft of the WTC inline with the prop shaft itself. Sounds easy but as you know even with a large sub like this one it's hard to get your big fat hands in there to make a lot of constant adjustments before that "Ding!" rings. First comes a lot of cussing and trying again and again. But I got the WTC center in width, height, and on the CG. With 4 mounts that takes some doing.
I cut a bit away of the hull so you don't have to stretch apart the hull to drop in the WTC at the ballast tank which is quite large. This model will have plenty of free board. I used Apoxie sculpt to secure well the mounts. Not pretty but functional.
The prop shaft support bearing in inbound too and fill be fitted to that bulkhead. I had to make a new one because the first one made it impossible to have easy access to the control yokes. It at it's furthest point forward which allowed me to tighten down the grub screws. It's tight back there.
I have good travel in the appendages although I did find that the shafts embedded in the kit supplied parts to be a bit off center. So if you rotate to far they will bind. This will require a bit of removal of material from the round for the rudders only. As you can see the dive planes have plenty.
Bob's 3D printed yokes work great BTW.
Went back over the appendages for another pass and more primer they look pretty clean now. This is all the grunt work and while I wait for Bob's new prop shaft and bearings to show up I'll move on to further preening on the hull. I have 1/16 brass inbound too to make up the yokes I'll need to control the rudder and dive planes. Add the rest of the PE parts and the array. Plenty to do still but getting there.
Last edited by SteveNeill; 06-05-2020, 10:03 AM.Comment
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I forgot that picture of the Dragon master which is still under construction. To be molded in RTV and cast in BJB 808 hallow cast. It's kinda a submarine. Travels in 3 dimensions, sealed off from the outside environment and water tight.
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I spent the whole long day getting this WTC assembled. Although initially I had the cylinder apart laid out, everything installed and working quite well I then had to put it together and close it up to test in the boat. That was another matter all together.
Where I had placed the smaller of two receivers that came with the supplied radio system the pump would not allow for it to fit in that location. In fact I couldn't find a spot where it would except on top of the ESC. Not my first choice to have it sit there, ESCs even with the large Capacitor that was added can still make noise in a 72 mhz system. Not to mention the heat it generates under load. Even placed there I could barely get the compartment closed.
The other problem is the amount of wiring generated by all the equipment. ESC, motor leads, servo wires and extensions. This caused a bundle nightmare that can only be cured by reducing the length of all the output wires which will take some time, cutting, soldering and refitting until there's a bit more breathing room in there. Then and only then there is just enough space to fit in the receiver where I had originally placed it. I hope.
As for the remote wireless on-off switch, that's a goner as the picture clearly points out. There is no way this elephant is going to fit. Where a third servo would have gone(it's not needed) will be an actual on-off switch hooked to a brass rod through the seal to the outside where you can turn the cylinder off and on. I do this all the time.
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Another day of Elephant stuffing
So I got that elephant to fit. I started by reducing the length of every bit of wiring I could and bundling and rapping in electrical tape everything else I could. The end result was a nice easy to fit aft section of the cylinder. Still no room for the on off feature but the single shaft on - off switch works easy and this cylinder is easy to take apart and reassemble in a heart beat. No issues.
Except one I have unplugged the auto leveler because it causes glitching and lack of control in the stern planes. I fiddled with it for an hour and never got favorable results. I had this happen with another sub of mind I built. I'll go back to it later.
All systems are go now. But I did have this weird noise apparent in the hull as if there was a vibration caused the rotation of the appendages both rudder and stern planes. When I would disconnect them from the cylinder and move them by hand they were smooth and quiet. Hook them back up to the cylinder and the sound would return. And they didn't move smoothly. There was a resistance.
Now completely baffled and annoyed I disconnected and just listened and felt the control rods from the cylinder. That's when I found it. As the brass rods move in and out of the seals they vibrate and make the noise that transfers through the brass rods to the yokes and into the hull like a speaker. OK. Found the noise. First thing I'll be asked is are they lubed? Yes. Silicone grease.
Today I'm going to take apart the cylinder again and make sure they are dead straight going through the seal casement because there's the problem me thinks. The brass rods are rubbing just enough against the resin seal encasement to drag and make the noise.
We also have a prop that's out of round. It's not real bad but there's really no way to fix it except get another prop. It's slightly tilted on the shaft. Seems to smooth a bit when you rev it up but at low RPM it's apparent.
I'll get this all sorted out but now for those of you that don't realize what's involved in building a model submarine(especially those of that claim my insanity when you ask me how much to build your boat) that building model submarines, isn't for sissies! It can sometimes me harder than first thought and takes patience and at times nerves of steel.
This comes at no fault to the makers of these boats or their components. Everything is hand made and in some cases mast produced in their garages. Sometimes things get missed, mistakes made but this is to be expected and any seasoned modeler should know these things. So fix it or get a replacement but never accuse these hard working people of being at fault. I've seen it on the net. Talk to the vendor always. They will work hard to help you.
First I shortened the motor leads and added bullet connectors. Yes I know the servos are not in the correct position. I fixed this later.
There. It fits great now. Oh I did get one of David's nifty servo mounts so I made my own out of PVC.
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As always sir you are the best. Thanks for always being there for us and the care you take in helping us all here to enjoy something we love. This is another great tip to add to my ever growing data base.Comment
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I dealt with the wireless on/off switch by uncasing it and placing it in the battery compartment. Still bulky, I actually hit the corners of the circuit board with the file to take off the sharp edges as it's diagonal dimension is very close to the ID of the cylinder. I haven't figured out a permanent mounting yet but I think it will involve something 3d printed. Still leaves room for my 2200 3s battery up front.
"It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief JosephComment
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