OUCH!!! Damn.... Manfred! You don't see me slinging molten lead about the shop (these days).
David
Fellow Idiot
German type XVIIb
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All the lead is inside for getting her on the waterline, next step will be the trimming for underwater,
It took about 2,6 kg of lead to get her at this point, the majority went into the ballasttank, i had a overkill of room, about 400 cc inside my ballasttank, the rest placed in and outside the hull at the lowest point.
Due to the amount of lead she is also straight up and pretty stabile at the surface.
Despite she looks small, she has become a heavy weight.
This was the price i had to pay of pouring the lead, i had a blow-out during cooling the lead, so boys and girls, allways!!! wear protective gear, don't be as stupid as i was.
Manfred.
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Reposting about the tail will be done at a later moment, for now she took the plunge into the water, as espected she is watertight, but she need some ballast, to be more precise about 2,5 kg,.
So the next adventure will be to stuff all the lead into this allready crammed submarine, i've got me some room inside the ballasttank but the majority has to go as deep as possible inside the hull.
Manfred.Leave a comment:
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Thank you for Posting and Bringing this thread to my attention too. :)Leave a comment:
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XVIIb has got her paint, started to build the testpool, pictures
Decided to go for the standard colours, with exception of the deck and top of the conningtower, later on the war they painted them dark gray, to avoid sighting from above by planes.
The rest was pretty straight forward, added some details on the hull itself like those hatches used for the special fuel they used, did not added all the weldinglines because this sub was build as hydrodynamic as possible.
This pile of wood was the beginning of making the testpool, i use a rubber pond lining to get it waterproof.
When all ready it looks like this, filling up the testpool, tomorrow some testing with the type XVIIb, more to see if she is still watertight and how much lead i need to get her at the waterline, to be continued.
Manfred.
David
Your StudentLeave a comment:
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XVIIb has got her paint, started to build the testpool, pictures
Decided to go for the standard colours, with exception of the deck and top of the conningtower, later on the war they painted them dark gray, to avoid sighting from above by planes.
The rest was pretty straight forward, added some details on the hull itself like those hatches used for the special fuel they used, did not added all the weldinglines because this sub was build as hydrodynamic as possible.
This pile of wood was the beginning of making the testpool, i use a rubber pond lining to get it waterproof.
When all ready it looks like this, filling up the testpool, tomorrow some testing with the type XVIIb, more to see if she is still watertight and how much lead i need to get her at the waterline, to be continued.
Manfred.
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News from the cave, still working on the type XVII, right now i'm at work at the weldinglines, most boring, but it has to be done, instead of making pics i made a vid to show the cave and talk about the progress on the type XVII, enjoy
Manfred.👍 1Leave a comment:
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Garden is done, painting outside the house is done, back to the XVII,
Made all connections for both the scope and schnorkelmast.
Restrictors for the airflow are in and not yet adjusted to control the speed of the scope and mast, ran into a problem while testing, a O ring was leaking and offcourse i was out of spares, ordered a kit with varius sizes of O rings, once it arrived after a few days i places the new O ring inside and started playing with both the scope and mast.
For now they run at a accepteble speed, still have to play with the restrictors, but that can be done later.
While waiting for the O rings i started with those strange heat coolers on both sides of the boat.
Cutted some tubes and plates of copper, to get them under angle on the plate i cutted all tube at the same angle.
Taped everything down and started soldering.
Ready after soldering, still in the rough but using the dremel will improve them.
Testfitting on the hull, from pictures i found on the web got me a clear picture how it should look.
Once this is done i can start drawing on the boat to get me the location of different hatches that have to be placed, since i build the mold without details i have to add them later.
Manfred.
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Romel,
In the past i modified servo testers, used a LDR instead of a potentiometer, this LDR was placed inside a black box, placed a LED in front of the LDR and shielded it with a pendulum, obstructing the LED with the pendulum, giving me different readings at different angles, it worked well, a low tech solution.
Only disadvantage is, you need two channels to control this contraption, one channel controlling the diveplanes and the other channel is used to switch the servo tester on or off, levelkeepers or gyro's you can oversteer with only one channel.
The small ADF's we all use are very suited to use inside the WTC/SD's, dryhull boats have some more room inside, i took the gyro from my declassified type VII, works for me.
Manfred.
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Manfred,
Would it be feasible to use a servo tester as an ersatz pitch controller?
One can easily attach a pendulum weight to the potentiometer hub.Last edited by redboat219; 02-22-2022, 01:32 AM.Leave a comment:
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Nice and tidy work getting everything to fit nicely. Looking good. Btw, yes analog!Leave a comment:
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