German type XVIIb

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • MFR1964
    Detail Nut of the First Order
    • Sep 2010
    • 1290

    #16
    Login problem is solved, back to business,

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1972.JPG
Views:	463
Size:	45.8 KB
ID:	139197

    Made this lower part on the lathe, added a tube with some cutted slits.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1974.JPG
Views:	456
Size:	49.8 KB
ID:	139199

    Drilled through the shaft of the wing and placed this rod.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1973.JPG
Views:	445
Size:	54.3 KB
ID:	139198

    The rod inside the shaft connects to the turned part, now i'm able to lift the deck, and each time i place the deck back this connection will be made automatic, position of the wing will be straight on the deck.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1975.JPG
Views:	440
Size:	51.3 KB
ID:	139200
    To prefent the shaft from falling out when turning the upperdeck upside down, i made a collar which secures the shaft on it's place.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1978.JPG
Views:	422
Size:	54.8 KB
ID:	139201

    Next step was making the connection to the rod which is connected to the servo, had some spare graupner parts from my declassified VII, they proved to be usefull, this will be the above surface position, i can tweek the position by turning that threaded rod and secure the position by fastening the nuts.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1979.JPG
Views:	474
Size:	57.2 KB
ID:	139202

    By pushing the servo rod, the wing will turn into the position during diving, not sure if i want to make this a automatic action or keep it manual, i expect the germans played with the positon of the wing compared with the speed, it seems logical to me that you can adjust the position during diving, have to think about that.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1984.JPG
Views:	441
Size:	50.8 KB
ID:	139203

    First step in getting working torpedo doors, had to place the boat into a rather risky position.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1985.JPG
Views:	432
Size:	53.1 KB
ID:	139204

    Used my chair to keep the boat in it's position, secured the tail with a large amount of ducktape, used 2K epoxy glue, it takes about 1 hour to get solid, 24 hours to harden completely.

    For now i have to make the spring which will close the doors and shorten the servo rods controlling the tubes/doors, also adding a connector to the rods using my graupner connectors, loads of work, stay tuned.

    Manfred.
    I went underground

    Comment

    • MFR1964
      Detail Nut of the First Order
      • Sep 2010
      • 1290

      #17
      Spring made, rods shortened added theconnectors and some Rube Goldberg stuff,

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1983.JPG
Views:	490
Size:	49.8 KB
ID:	139315

      The spring is made from some 0,03 copper strip.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1986.JPG
Views:	419
Size:	55.1 KB
ID:	139316

      Both steering rods are shortened, tapped some M3 thread on the M4 rods, had to turn those down to make M3 thread possible.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1987.JPG
Views:	416
Size:	57.4 KB
ID:	139317

      Spring is placed, those wings will give enough tension against the doors to keep them closed, those plates with copper eyes are part of my Rube Goldberg contraption, started nitting the strings.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1988.JPG
Views:	415
Size:	56.0 KB
ID:	139318

      This is how it works, the string is attached to the door, the other plate is placed on the hull to pull the door into that direction, the second plate is placed at the hull in front of the pull rod which will open the door by linear movement.
      For demonstration i simply pull on the string by hand to open the door, have to build/modify the pull rod on top of the torpedotube.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1991.JPG
Views:	412
Size:	49.9 KB
ID:	139319

      Door closed.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1992.JPG
Views:	413
Size:	42.2 KB
ID:	139320

      Door open, plenty of room to get the torpedo out.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1995.JPG
Views:	433
Size:	55.0 KB
ID:	139321

      Talking about torpedo's, this is my stash, those grey one's are from the type XXIII, the smaller one's are intended for the reartube of the type VII, the larger one's are for the four fronttubes of the type VII.
      When building this boat in the past i went for the longer launchtubes so i can use the longer torpedo's from my type VII.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1994.JPG
Views:	436
Size:	55.5 KB
ID:	139322
      Dryfitting one of the torps to see if there is enough clearence to go past the opened door.


      Manfred.


      I went underground

      Comment

      • MFR1964
        Detail Nut of the First Order
        • Sep 2010
        • 1290

        #18
        Last week done some serious work to get me a working launchsystem,

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2006.JPG
Views:	525
Size:	57.8 KB
ID:	139707

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2007.JPG
Views:	456
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	139708

        First step was to connect the pushrods from both tubes, shown here the most closed and opened position.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2008.JPG
Views:	433
Size:	57.5 KB
ID:	139709

        Connecting the doors by fastening the pull wires to the slidingrods.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2009.JPG
Views:	407
Size:	56.7 KB
ID:	139710

        Position of the door in the most opened position.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2012.JPG
Views:	424
Size:	63.4 KB
ID:	139713

        Next hurdle was, building the fire solution center for controlling the launchtubes, from left to right, multi switch decoder for controlling the relais of both tubes, 2 failsafe prints, one for opening the doors, the other for closing the door, the most right print is the fire control switch.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2013.JPG
Views:	395
Size:	58.4 KB
ID:	139714

        Left switch is the left launchtube, middle switch the right launchtube, in this position both tubes are closed, by selecting the switch forward you activate the choosen tube, last step will be, push down on the switch near the antenna, this will activate the fire control switch, made this switch to counteract flutter which can fire your torps accidentely.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2010.JPG
Views:	436
Size:	63.4 KB
ID:	139711

        Inserted both torps, doors are closed.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2011.JPG
Views:	436
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	139712

        After activating the left switch and pushing on the fire switch on the transmitter the door will open and fire the torpedo, the launch happens by running the torpedo under it's own power out of the tube, pretty much the same way as with the type XXIII.

        Now this is done i can turn my attention to rebuilding the batteries to my need, modifing the ballasttank, and start work on the 12V power backbone, to be continued.

        Manfred.
        I went underground

        Comment

        • MFR1964
          Detail Nut of the First Order
          • Sep 2010
          • 1290

          #19
          Yet again a busy week,

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2003.JPG
Views:	432
Size:	61.4 KB
ID:	140021

          Fitted the standard battery packs underneath the ballasttank, there is enough room to play around.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2021.JPG
Views:	373
Size:	45.6 KB
ID:	140022

          This was tricky, since i will use a open cell ballasttank i had to make a hole in the hull at the keel, used a special drill to get me the right hole at the right spot.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2024.JPG
Views:	379
Size:	46.2 KB
ID:	140023

          Soldered this extension on the bottom of the ballasttank, leaving me the room underneath the tank which i need for the batteries.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2025.JPG
Views:	405
Size:	47.2 KB
ID:	140024

          Will use three O rings and RTV to seal the tank, that ring on the outlet will prefent those O rings from moving after inserted into the part at the keel.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2022.JPG
Views:	404
Size:	54.9 KB
ID:	140025

          Playing around with the modified battery packs, for now i've got me 1 pack 12 V 5 Ah, and 1 pack 4,8 V pack 5 Ah, position will be teminated later on when i glue the packs down, i've ordered the batteries for the compressor pack.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2026.JPG
Views:	382
Size:	61.8 KB
ID:	140026

          Connected up all present packs to the loading point with display of the battery status, to the left the receiverpack, to the right the 12V pack.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2027.JPG
Views:	411
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	140027

          Since i have now power onboard i started to play with hooking up the servo's with extensions cords, now i know how the batteries will fit in i can start with making the floorboards to cover them,
          those floorboards will be used to place down all the other stuff like compressor, valves and electronics needed to get this boat alive.

          Manfred.



          I went underground

          Comment

          • george
            Captain
            • Dec 2010
            • 727

            #20
            Originally posted by MFR1964
            Bob,
            Yes, she stands tall, scale is 1:30, lenght i have to measure.
            I know that picture, have it inside the archives.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	PB190091.JPG
Views:	1119
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	138229

            Looks pretty much like mine, this picture is taken some years ago when i was working on her.

            David,

            Agreed, into the snake-pitt with those suckers!!!

            As for the tail, i tackled that issue allready, i've got me a fully functional tail with pushrods.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	PB040012.JPG
Views:	1052
Size:	54.2 KB
ID:	138230

            Click image for larger version

Name:	PB090014.JPG
Views:	1005
Size:	57.3 KB
ID:	138231

            These pictures where taking during the cladding with aluminum foil, done this to get rivets on the plates, only have to fabricate the covers for hiding the rods to the divingplanes and rudder.

            Manfred.
            Hello Mr. Manfred

            I had a question about what I see BUT don`t understand in Post 4 pictures of your rear planes.
            It looks to me as there is no continuous shaft from one end of the plane to the other for pivoting stability. How does yours then connect and be able to not flex under pressure while in use?

            Thanks for posting ALL your work and what scale are those torpedos?

            Comment

            • MFR1964
              Detail Nut of the First Order
              • Sep 2010
              • 1290

              #21
              George,

              The design of the tail is indeed a bit different as we normally use, no shaft from diveplane to diveplane,

              Click image for larger version

Name:	P4050011.JPG
Views:	398
Size:	50.6 KB
ID:	140075

              The diveplanes have each a seperate hinge on the outside.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	P4050010.JPG
Views:	400
Size:	56.0 KB
ID:	140076

              Once placed you get this, seperate planes means seperate steering.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	P7250109.JPG
Views:	372
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	140077

              They move by sliding action of the steering-rod.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	PC220163.JPG
Views:	395
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	140078

              The total build-up of both the rudder and divingplanes, the steeringrods for the diveplanes are connected to each other to give the same action on the diveplanes.

              As for flex under pressure, i don't know, all my subs have traditional diveplanes, made everything as sturdy as possible, we will see what happens.

              Scale of my torpedo's is 1:35.

              Manfred.
              I went underground

              Comment

              • george
                Captain
                • Dec 2010
                • 727

                #22
                Thank You very much for your reply with pictures and for posting your builds.Very educational.

                Comment

                • MFR1964
                  Detail Nut of the First Order
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 1290

                  #23

                  No problem, documenting your build gives others the change to see what kind of things are involved to make it work, and now some more work from the Cave, floorboards are made and more,

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2028.JPG
Views:	405
Size:	49.5 KB
ID:	140323

                  Front floorboard, it covers the receiverbatteries, and will give me a sound base to fasten the compressor.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2029.JPG
Views:	372
Size:	54.5 KB
ID:	140324

                  Rear floorboard, which covers the 12V pack and my compressor battery pack, also made the bracket for holding my levelkeeper old school style.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2030.JPG
Views:	364
Size:	55.0 KB
ID:	140325

                  The complete standard wiring for controlling the compressor, that blue switch can be set at manual,neutral or at automatic, that part at the right of the picture is a pressured air controlled switch, which switches on at 1,5 atm, and will shut the compressor down at 6 atm, there is some more electronics involved to operate it save underwater, but that will be added later on.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2035.JPG
Views:	363
Size:	60.9 KB
ID:	140326

                  Crammed all the stuff in the front compartment, i now know that i have to play around to get everything at it's place in a nice controlled matter.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2036.JPG
Views:	357
Size:	62.5 KB
ID:	140327

                  Also filled up the rear, pretty much the same story as with the front, that black box in the middle is a old school leveler pendulum style, left top corner, the air valves, right top corrner the servo which will control my scope and schnorkelmast by using a air selector switch, lower right the controlswitch of my compressor.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2037.JPG
Views:	386
Size:	60.6 KB
ID:	140328

                  First i had to strip down the internals by removing everything, divided the batterypacks, and started the first stage, getting your boat level.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2038.JPG
Views:	384
Size:	55.4 KB
ID:	140329

                  Each pack will be glued down level, preventing that the boat will be off balance due to the shifting weigth of the packs

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2040.JPG
Views:	378
Size:	54.6 KB
ID:	140330

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2042.JPG
Views:	371
Size:	62.4 KB
ID:	140331

                  All the packs are glued in, from left to right, receiverpack, main powerpack divided in two packs and the compressorpack.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2044.JPG
Views:	368
Size:	55.0 KB
ID:	140332

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2045.JPG
Views:	354
Size:	59.4 KB
ID:	140333

                  Glued down the ballasttank and used some RTV to get me a watertight connection underneath at the outlet of the tank.
                  Those nuts that you can see between the packs are part of the waterdetection system, it will be combined with the main floatvalve on top of the deck.


                  Manfred.














                  I went underground

                  Comment

                  • MFR1964
                    Detail Nut of the First Order
                    • Sep 2010
                    • 1290

                    #24
                    Next hurdle is done, the aluminum deck which will hold my lexan hatches,

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	PB060156.JPG
Views:	369
Size:	65.0 KB
ID:	140640

                    This was done in the past, first i outlined the contours and starting to play with the jewellers-saw.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	PB060157.JPG
Views:	315
Size:	66.8 KB
ID:	140641

                    Made a plan for the three hatches.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	PB080165.JPG
Views:	330
Size:	67.2 KB
ID:	140642

                    I ended up with this in the past, three lexan hatches, stored it away on the attic some years ago.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1936.JPG
Views:	302
Size:	46.4 KB
ID:	140643

                    Took the deck from the attic, and noted down the final positions of my screws which will hold down the hatches.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1943.JPG
Views:	314
Size:	51.1 KB
ID:	140644

                    Positioned the drill press in the middle of the cave and started with drilling all the holes into the deck, this picture shows the last step, drilling the holes inside the lexan hatches, secured those with some duck=tape.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1947.JPG
Views:	337
Size:	51.4 KB
ID:	140645

                    When finished you end up with this, a complete aluminum deck with all the hatches, thickness of the deck is 3 mm, you have to make things sturdy with a dryhull submarine,

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2050.JPG
Views:	341
Size:	58.6 KB
ID:	140646

                    The hull was not alined anymore with the topdeck due to storage all those years on the attic, with the use of ducktape and a heatgun i got the shape back.
                    Now i have to adjust the aluminum deck to get me a good fit inside the hull, this will be done in several steps, i know from the past it's less frustrating to do it this way.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2051.JPG
Views:	302
Size:	55.3 KB
ID:	140647

                    Made the final drawing of both the scope and the schnorkel, displayed here is all the hardware to get me a working set, so it;s back to the lathe to do some serious work.

                    Manfred.








                    I went underground

                    Comment

                    • MFR1964
                      Detail Nut of the First Order
                      • Sep 2010
                      • 1290

                      #25
                      Scope is not yet ready, but made good progress,

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2053.JPG
Views:	334
Size:	48.4 KB
ID:	140810

                      Most of all loose parts.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2054.JPG
Views:	327
Size:	50.4 KB
ID:	140811

                      Building the parts together.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2055.JPG
Views:	315
Size:	49.8 KB
ID:	140812

                      It will fit like this, only missing the toppart which will contain the upper O ring, have to make that on the lathe.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2049.JPG
Views:	314
Size:	58.4 KB
ID:	140813

                      Problem with the height of the scope.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3200.JPG
Views:	295
Size:	54.4 KB
ID:	140814

                      Solution, whack a hole into the ballasttank, add a tube and fire up the torch, problem solved.

                      Still a lot of work to do on the lathe, but i'm getting there, between all the work i'm still tinkering on the aluminum deck for a good fit.

                      Manfred.



                      I went underground

                      Comment

                      • MFR1964
                        Detail Nut of the First Order
                        • Sep 2010
                        • 1290

                        #26
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2056.JPG
Views:	335
Size:	55.5 KB
ID:	141045

                        All components are made on the lathe, a exploded view to show how much is involved.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2057.JPG
Views:	303
Size:	53.8 KB
ID:	141046

                        Basic components builded up, ready to be placed inside the air actuated tubes.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3195.JPG
Views:	280
Size:	46.2 KB
ID:	141047

                        The snort is functional, made a new tube because the copper inlet gave some issue's with retracting the mast, replaced it by making three slits inside the new tube.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3194.JPG
Views:	285
Size:	49.6 KB
ID:	141048

                        Scope and schnorkel extended to max height.

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3196.JPG
Views:	292
Size:	50.6 KB
ID:	141049

                        Retracted in to the housing, have to wait before i can make the fit at the deck, still have to do some sanding and grinding to get the right fit of the deck, hope to finish that issue this week.


                        Manfred.




                        I went underground

                        Comment

                        • MFR1964
                          Detail Nut of the First Order
                          • Sep 2010
                          • 1290

                          #27
                          The aluminum deck is done, took about 15 dremel sandingdrums to get there, the reward was fitting both the scope and schnorkel to see if my drawing was right,

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3197.JPG
Views:	289
Size:	46.6 KB
ID:	141176

                          Taped the deck down with ducktape on the desired height, time to fit the moving stuff, it proved i have enough room above the ballasttank to get away with the lower part of my schnorkel.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3198.JPG
Views:	266
Size:	40.5 KB
ID:	141177

                          Placed the upperpart of the sub, compared to the drawings inside the book i have, the dimensions look right.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3199.JPG
Views:	269
Size:	37.7 KB
ID:	141178

                          Retracted all the stuff, scope disappears as intended, schnorkel head is flush with the tower, the METOX antenna has to stick out this way to detect those pesty allied planes while driving ont the surface.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2060.JPG
Views:	267
Size:	52.9 KB
ID:	141179

                          The deck is now rigged like this, and the first points are glued down this evening with 2K glue, this will take some time to get this done, have to do the process on the outside as on the inside, plan is to make both floats while the deck is drying between the glue sessions.

                          Manfred.

                          I went underground

                          Comment

                          • MFR1964
                            Detail Nut of the First Order
                            • Sep 2010
                            • 1290

                            #28
                            One side of the deck is glued down, started with the inside, made my needed floats during glueing.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2063.JPG
Views:	267
Size:	57.4 KB
ID:	141423

                            This side is done, have to repeat the process on the inside to get a secure connection between the hull and deck.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2061.JPG
Views:	254
Size:	39.9 KB
ID:	141424

                            Used a tool to get the lipseals inside, used some vaseline to ease the job.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2062.JPG
Views:	246
Size:	52.1 KB
ID:	141425

                            Before i glued down the last things on the outside i inserted the lipseals into their holders.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2066.JPG Views:	0 Size:	48.8 KB ID:	141400

                            While glueing i started with the floats needed for my boat, the left one is for the compressor and leveling the pressure inside the boat, the right one is for sealing off the main valve of the ballasttank.
                            That black thing is a magnetic switch complete with the magnet which will activate it,

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2069.JPG Views:	0 Size:	49.2 KB ID:	141402

                            Glued down the magnet inside the underside of the main float.



                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2067.JPG Views:	0 Size:	58.4 KB ID:	141401

                            I stole David's idea of the safety float from the SAS system, ehhh, only half of it to be more precise, inside you can see the seat which will be closed by the float itself.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2070.JPG Views:	0 Size:	47.8 KB ID:	141403

                            Both floats with rubber seals and the construction to keep them inside the tube like structures.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2071.JPG Views:	0 Size:	58.4 KB ID:	141404

                            I need free access to get the air inside, decided to drill holes all around and on top of the tube.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2072.JPG Views:	0 Size:	54.2 KB ID:	141405

                            Had to make a slight modification to the main float, to prefent wobbling around, glued down some styrene strips to get a better fit.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2073.JPG Views:	0 Size:	56.7 KB ID:	141406

                            The finished products, made a mistake with the height of the ballast valve float, still have to solder a longer tube to it to bring it to proper height.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2075.JPG Views:	0 Size:	61.7 KB ID:	141407

                            Adjusting the magnetic switch to the proper height and position with a multimeter, i can secure it by tightening up a screw.

                            For now i have to turn the feedthroughs for placing the floats on the deck, this will be done during my second glueing session.


                            Manfred.







                            Last edited by MFR1964; 07-05-2020, 10:00 AM.
                            I went underground

                            Comment

                            • trout
                              Admiral
                              • Jul 2011
                              • 3545

                              #29
                              Manfred, you magnificent engineer, the float’s magnet when it get close to the switch will be the safety to turn on or off the pump?
                              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                              Comment

                              • MFR1964
                                Detail Nut of the First Order
                                • Sep 2010
                                • 1290

                                #30
                                Tom, you're right with the function of the magnetic switch, in the end it will act as the main controller for shutting down the compressor when diving, activating the levelkeeper, and shutting down the main valve on the ballastttank.

                                Manfred.

                                I went underground

                                Comment

                                Working...