Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

ZB-1, ZB-2: Scratch Build Cylinder design for limited Production by Zero Bubble.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    Thank you Rob,

    So after assembling both trays and installing them I went to set up and install the rear servos for the rear plane and rudder. Using standard size servos I would mount them across the cylinder. I marked out one square hole to cut out and then marked out the 8 holes for the retaining bolts to be screwed down into to secure them. Pretty straightforward.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3915.JPG
Views:	156
Size:	68.4 KB
ID:	140305

    A concern that I have is whether or not the pull of the servos will cause the thin tray aluminium to pull up or push down dependent upon the direction of travel of the servo arm. I don't know if the Aluminium will be rigid enough.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3916.JPG
Views:	139
Size:	73.1 KB
ID:	140306

    Once this is done I cannibalized two push rod links out of an older cylinder I was no longer using and installed them into my new little whiz bang seals that mound into the end cap. Hook them up to the Servos and off you go. Screw the Tray back onto the end cap.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3920.JPG
Views:	144
Size:	79.6 KB
ID:	140307

    I also drilled two holes in the vertical bend of the tray to allow the motor wires to run through underneath. I also need to solder on the green caps. I intend on mounting my Mtroniks speed controller underneath with the rec on the top. The are to the right in this pic will be where all the electronics is installed.



    David H









    Comment


    • #77






      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

      Comment


      • #78
        Thank you David,

        I wondered if you had been snowed under or forgotten.

        Dave

        Comment


        • #79
          Hello David,

          I have been looking at the photo of how you have set up an ESC as a test bed for testing your motors. I noticed that you have used a servo tester as the throttle for the ESC. Clever, could I get a schematic of that?

          I was last working on the rear tray for the cylinder. After this I needed to get hold of an ESC to start with the Electronics layout. I'm just waiting in an Mtroniks to come my way. In the meantime I have cut out and started the template for the forward tray. This one is shorter than the stern one as it principally just holds all the Ballast tank controls.


          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3922.JPG
Views:	102
Size:	71.2 KB
ID:	140586

          After cutting out the paper template and then cutting out and folding the sides of the aluminium sheet I could then mark out the holes and drill for the attachment points that fit to the two side arms that are molded into the front end cap.I have actually cut the front edge a little short so that wires from underneath could fit up and be accessible from the top of the tray.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3924.JPG
Views:	84
Size:	81.0 KB
ID:	140587

          Ballast tank servo holes cut into the tray and a standard metal geared servo installed. As mentioned previously, my Ballast tank system is very simple. I have done this so that prospective
          customers can set it up easily and adjust as necessary. Once the servo is secured down, then It is a matter of adjusting how the pinch will occur. This will mean working out how to place the nitro tube as it wraps around past the servo horn. Developing a roller for it and also a means of securing and accurately placing the pump micro switch.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3925.JPG
Views:	91
Size:	84.2 KB
ID:	140588

          I have made a basic design for a bracket to hold the nitro in place, however I do not know if I will redesign this later into something that can more easily be molded. For now it will give me an idea about location. At the moment it is made out of some acrylic pieces glued and bolted down in place.


          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3929.JPG
Views:	88
Size:	82.6 KB
ID:	140590

          I haven't yet put the backing board to support the pinch operation of the roller arm. That will come next.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-3931.JPG
Views:	94
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	140591


          David H
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #80
            Battery to ESC, ESC motor wires to motor, ESC lead to servo-tester, Servo-tester power lead to 5-volt battery (as this type ESC has no BEC).

            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2772.JPG
Views:	103
Size:	40.2 KB
ID:	140596Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2770.JPG
Views:	92
Size:	66.7 KB
ID:	140597Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2771.JPG
Views:	92
Size:	70.7 KB
ID:	140598Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2773.JPG
Views:	86
Size:	60.5 KB
ID:	140599Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2775.JPG
Views:	88
Size:	68.7 KB
ID:	140600Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2774.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	68.0 KB
ID:	140601

            David
            Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 06-13-2020, 07:06 AM.
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #81
              Hello all,

              Thanks David for the pics.

              I have taken a break from doing the Trays. I have decided along with everything else to produce a some magnetic coupling holders. I have been using magnets for some time after deciding to ditch the electrical connectors that act as a clamp and have to be screwed tight all the time. These clamps also doing flex and bend with the radial movement of the pivot.

              Once again I would make the magnet holders out of Polyurethane resin from a series of molds. So I took some Stainless bar and then turned holes in either end, one for the push rod and the other for the magnet to slip into.



              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4018.JPG
Views:	73
Size:	90.1 KB
ID:	140881

              Then make sure that they fit on the prototype.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4017.JPG
Views:	64
Size:	76.8 KB
ID:	140882

              I made six of them so I could mold as many as I could in one go. Once again cut out the splitter board and position the parts. Then the air vents and the channels. Done this so many times before.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4029.JPG
Views:	62
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	140883

              Magnets at the top create the hole for the magnets, short brass extensions at the bottom create the right diameter hole for the brass pushrod.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4030.JPG
Views:	62
Size:	90.7 KB
ID:	140884

              Yellow Play-Doh once again to create the funnels for pouring.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4040.JPG
Views:	66
Size:	77.7 KB
ID:	140885

              Then the finished urethane couplings with magnets inserted and fitted to push rods. You just need to make sure that the magnets that meet from the control surface runs are not going to repel.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	unnamed.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	61.2 KB
ID:	140886

              David H






              Comment


              • #82
                Nice work, David
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #83
                  Thanks David,

                  Hello all,

                  Getting back to the ZB-2 assembly. I'm not to happy with how the Aluminium trays have worked out. I need to get some templates worked out so that I can get them more consistent. After this I started development work on the Ballast tank servo pinch arrangement. However I will document that later. Anyway I have decided to give the trays and their development a rest and look at starting the stern end cap design for the ZB-1, The single shaft.

                  I have bought a whole series of different spur gears and pinions to play around with. The single shaft design will feature a reduction gear.

                  Once again, start off with a Renshape blank that is turned down to round on the lathe. I have decided to bypass the production firstly of a prototype to test in the water. This is because I have decided to use the same watertight seal combination as the ZB-2. I don't know if this is unwise but I am confident that the actual arrangement of the gear housing will be waterproof. David, I'm sure will tell me in no uncertain terms if I am deviating from the ways of true enlightenment. As a result I will be machining down this end cap to within the specs of the final end cap. Slightly over sized to compensate for the differing ID's of Lexan.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4052.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	71.9 KB
ID:	141106

                  After getting the end cap down to the dimensions that I wanted I could start working on the internal set up and motor mounting arrangement. I generated several drawings over a period of a couple of days to determine the best set up from the perspective of reliability, accessibility to the gears if needed and sealing. I decided that I could mount the motor inset of the rear face of the end cap. this gives stability and helps to get a precisely straight mount to the motor and also allows the short shaft from the motor to be able to stick out far enough for the spur gear to engage with the larger gear. Why do motor manufacturers not make the motor shaft longer!

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4053.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	73.2 KB
ID:	141107

                  Here you can see its a tight fit for the motor assembly. Off to the right is the main shaft. A flanged Oil-lite 6 mm bush and a larger nylon spur gear. This will engage with the pinion that is fitted to the
                  motor shaft. The output shaft protrudes dead center out the middle of the end cap. The motor face comes within about 2mm of the outer face. The bearing at the front of the motor extends out and makes for a tight fit. I will then later mark out and drill the

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4054.JPG
Views:	49
Size:	71.3 KB
ID:	141108

                  here you can see the main 6mm stainless steel shaft. This will be taken down a little to conform with the same 4mm shafts of the ZB-2 as it will pass through the same sealing design.
                  Here you can see the larger gear engage with the pinion from the motor mount. The gear ratio off the top of my head is about 5:1. The oil-lite bearing is butting up against the outer face of the end cap and needs its own housing. The pinion gear fit on the Motor is extremely tight. I haven't been able to source metal pinions so far at a reasonable price so I cam going for these nylon ones. the mesh between the two is excellent. I quite like the design of the larger spur gear and that it has the narrower longer extension that will easily allow a drilled hole for a small brass wire to lock the gear in place and eliminate slip on the 6 mm shaft.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4055.JPG
Views:	46
Size:	82.7 KB
ID:	141109

                  This photo shows the machining of the back stop mount for the rear of the 6mm shaft and the Oil-lite bearing that holds the back end. I have to say, even though I have a metal lathe I much prefer turning Renshape and plastics. Acrylic and Acetal are my favourites. Anyway I cut off the Renshape ring and glue it down in the dead centre of the end cap.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4057.JPG
Views:	50
Size:	46.6 KB
ID:	141110

                  A smoothing of filler around the outside and ready to press fit the 6mm Oil-lite bushing.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4058.JPG
Views:	46
Size:	48.0 KB
ID:	141111

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4056.JPG
Views:	46
Size:	75.1 KB
ID:	141112
                  Here the 6 mm shaft has been placed inside the backstop for the shaft that supports it up against the end cap. The Oil-lite bearing protects the small Renshape collar that stops the shaft from wearing into the end cap.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4059.JPG
Views:	45
Size:	63.8 KB
ID:	141113

                  Now I just have to build all the outside stuff.



                  David H
































                  Comment


                  • #84
                    I assume the 'outside stuff' will be a watertight cap that encloses the gears. I also assume it will affix to the after face (wet side) of your motor bulkhead with an array of machine screws that pass through a circular flange. This enclosure will, of course, be equipped with an o-ring to make a watertight union between flange and motor bulkhead.

                    When you rejoin your sheet-metal work, here are some pointers:
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Yes That’s it. Thanks David for the prompt reply. No sneak peek, however to me the front end of what I have created and you’ll see soon enough looks more like the front end of an RR Merlin than anything else..

                      David H

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Originally posted by Davidh View Post
                        Yes That’s it. Thanks David for the prompt reply. No sneak peek, however to me the front end of what I have created and you’ll see soon enough looks more like the front end of an RR Merlin than anything else..

                        David H
                        Careful, pal. If you show a RR Merlin -- illustrations of same is deemed in some circles as techno porn! (the DB601 another example of exotic art). Steam-punk before steam-punk was 'cool'.

                        Internal combustion! Accept no substitutes!

                        David
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Hello all,

                          So as can be seen by the last post I have got to the stage of having the gear arrangement done. Essentially now its about creating the housing the gears and the mounting of the watertight section on the front. I have decided with this design not to create a whole new sealed section but will just be using the same assembly as the ZB-2 with its arrangement of shaft, oil-lite bush, inner support and outer ring with a U-cup seal. This will save development time and also I believe as mentioned last week the need to produce a working test prototype for waterproofing. At the moment the one I am working on is the one that will be used for production tooling. The only major downside is that it will stick a fair distance back from the face of the end cap.

                          I have been watching consistently, HWSNBN's 'Todays work' section and studying intently the shaft design and prototyping. There is so much good information here to glean from. Initially I thought about creating a housing that was quite flat and wide but wanted to differentiate from David's somewhat and so started experimenting with different shapes for the gear housing at the front. I took a flat piece of Renshape and carved it into a stylized pear shape for want of a better description, and quite liked the look of it. This piece is is a flat raised section that will sit roughly level with the gear.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4070.JPG
Views:	24
Size:	62.0 KB
ID:	141359

                          The raised section has two circles cut out, one for the main gear and the other for the pinion. The flanged bush is in place to support the back of the shaft. In order to fit the gear on I had to take the 6mm shaft down just a whisker for it to be a tight fit with the gear. Further along the shaft will have to be taken down considerably to fit through the U-Cup seal and also the 4mm coupling.


                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4067.JPG
Views:	20
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	141360

                          Sketching always helps. Beside the compass work to get the exact numbers that you need it helps you consider ideas and find out the ideas that you had that won't work because of something that got in the way. This pic shows the existing seal design outer ring from the ZB-2. This will be used as sealing on this boat. It will safe time and whole lot of extra prototyping. What is missing is the main housing that hasn't been developed yet. This section will also receive the holes for the retaining 2.6mm screws for the motor mount. It will also take the bolts that will hold down the main outer housing piece that will cover the entire assembly.

                          The bolts for the motor have to be precisely spaced. When I was working on the ZB-2, I developed a small clear template that located precisely the position of the holes in relation top the main shaft. Placing this over the top meant that I could easily work out their position. It is important that access to these bolts is maintained , because you never know when you may need to replace them.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4082.JPG
Views:	19
Size:	73.5 KB
ID:	141361


                          Once these were drilled and the motor fix assured I could look at the position of the holes for the main assembly. these would consist of 4 mm stainless steel bolts that would go through from the inside and have nuts on the outside. At this point I didn't quite know how the geometry on the outside would work, but we will get to that.


                          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG-4084.JPG
Views:	20
Size:	44.1 KB
ID:	141362

                          You can clearly see the brass pin on the side of the main gear shoulder. This was a tight fit but holds the gear in place. It ain't going to slip! You can clearly see the 2.6 mm hex bolts that secure down the motor. The two main holes that you can see here will be used to hold the main housing in place and allow access to this section if a motor, gear or shaft change is needed.


                          David H















                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X