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Arkmodel Type VII linkage

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  • Arkmodel Type VII linkage

    Hi,
    How is the rear control arm R15, attached to the square tubing shaft, L7, that operates the rear dive planes?
    The instructions indicate "weld", but I have no idea what that means.
    I doubt you can solder it to the shaft, if the brass insert is hot enough to solder it will certainly melt the plastic arm.
    I was thinking of JB weld but it doesn't really work well in this application.
    Also, is there any advantage to gluing the hull sides together rather than just screwing them together.
    Thanks,
    Jon

  • #2
    That's a huge falldown in the instructions. I ended up rebuilding the linkage horns for proper travel. That allowed for them to clamp onto the rudder shafts with set screws.

    Gluing the hull together removes the seam (once you fill it). If you're not worried about that particularly, you can certainly rely on the screws to hold it together and retain the ability to take it apart in the future (installation of torps, torp shutters, etc?).

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the reply.
      I made a new arm out of G10 and CA'd it to the shaft.
      I then put a fillet
      of epoxy on each side to secure it.
      Another issue is how to operate the forward dive planes.
      I saw on Bob's video of the custom WTC he had a servo on the outside of the end cap. I'm sure that these servo's he recommends are not waterproof so, unless he built a water type box to mount the servo in, I can't figure out what he did.
      I have the GATO WTC and could mount the servo inside the cap but I would need seals where the push rod exits the cap and have no idea what type or where to get them.
      Any help will be appreciated.
      Last edited by AC47de; 02-12-2019, 05:51 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        You have all the exits you need in that Gato Sub-Driver. I am not sure there is enough ballast tank in it, but I will let the experts give the final thought on that. You can run a 1/6" rod from the back of the WTC to the front. Use the quick disconnects that Bob sells.
        You can see an example on my Type XXIII build
        https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/build...pe-xxiii/page2

        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by AC47de View Post
          Thanks for the reply.
          I made a new arm out of G10 and CA'd it to the shaft.
          I then put a fillet
          of epoxy on each side to secure it.
          Another issue is how to operate the forward dive planes.
          I saw on Bob's video of the custom WTC he had a servo on the outside of the end cap. I'm sure that these servo's he recommends are not waterproof so, unless he built a water type box to mount the servo in, I can't figure out what he did.
          I have the GATO WTC and could mount the servo inside the cap but I would need seals where the push rod exits the cap and have no idea what type or where to get them.
          Any help will be appreciated.
          You can use one of the existing motor bulkhead pushrod runs to operate the bow planes. Just hook up the dumb-bell interface item and you're good to go. And some variations on that scheme:











          No need to place a servo and seal in the forward dry space, a separate servo WTC, or any other exotic bull-**** jazz. KISS! KISS, I say!!!!

          David

          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah, what he said!

            Bear in mind that when I did that buildup I didn't have the same access to Caswell's cylinders. I used what I had. In hindsight, I wish that I'd used the Caswell cylinder. It would have saved me mucho time and hassle to have used the Gato cylinder. As Dave said, simply use the rear servo outputs and run the linkage up the cylinder.

            Bob

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