Gato class Sub Assembly #1

[toppack]

Boomer, you asked about separation cut being high on hull, so seam would be hidden by Deck/cover assembly.
So I thought I would post some pics of my Hull, to which I did that.
Just need a steady hand using a dremel-saw, which can be dangerous, if not careful.
When installing SD, the hull has to be flexed open a little to get it past upper lip, at aft end, but not much. (Maybe 1/8")
It worked out Great, no problems! :)

Click Pics:

[toppack]

I've had enough time in the pool with the Gato to get a Little experience operating it but I really need 2 good hands to do it properly, so I think I'll put it on the shelf until Spring (good weather). If my hand has not improved by then I may have to change transmitters, to one I can operate better with one hand. My pistol-grip type I made, just don't cut-it. (I have several 2-stick style that I don't like as much but should work better one handed)

The Revell Gato was definitely the correct one to build as my first RC Sub, but now I'm ready for a bigger challenge.

So Mike, I'm ready to start construction of the T-class, this Winter.
Is there a problem getting anything ready, such as the drawings?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've had enough time in the pool with the Gato to get a Little experience operating it but I really need 2 good hands to do it properly, so I think I'll put it on the shelf until Spring (good weather). If my hand has not improved by then I may have to change transmitters, to one I can operate better with one hand. My pistol-grip type I made, just don't cut-it. (I have several 2-stick style that I don't like as much but should work better one handed)

The Revell Gato was definitely the correct one to build as my first RC Sub, but now I'm ready for a bigger challenge.

So Mike, I'm ready to start construction of the T-class, this Winter.
Is there a problem getting anything ready, such as the drawings?

Not to be (too much) of an ass here, but ...

... if you regard the GATO build and getting it operational as a moderate challenge, then may I suggest you will not be intimidated by anything on the market today. Getting that kit up and working via r/c -- and with one bum hand -- ain't bad!

Once you get your ergonomics worked out with a suitable transmitter, you're home free.

Most two-handed asses out there can't achieve what you've done with one.

David,

[toppack]

Thanks, David
It's been a Fun Project, mainly because it didn't sink when it wasn't Supposed to, and I'll attribute that mainly to your Great SD design. :)

[junglelord]

I want one of those beauties.
I will have to save up for one of those boats.
Sweet large model and subdriver.
I'll drink to THAT!

[toppack]

I got more pool time with the Gato today.
Once I was cruiseing along about 3 feet down and all a sudden she shot to the surface very fast.
It must of had the first actual test of the loss of signal failsafe. I had tested it before by turning off the transmitter but it didn't surface that fast then for some reason. May have had more gas in 'er belly this time. :D
Anyway everything is still working perfectly and we had great fun with it. :)

[junglelord]

Cool, you had a emergency surface, explosive moment of excitment.
I cannot wait...lucky you open water.
I'll drink to THAT!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I got more pool time with the Gato today.
Once I was cruiseing along about 3 feet down and all a sudden she shot to the surface very fast.
It must of had the first actual test of the loss of signal failsafe. I had tested it before by turning off the transmitter but it didn't surface that fast then for some reason. May have had more gas in 'er belly this time. :D
Anyway everything is still working perfectly and we had great fun with it. :)

Was it the first blow of a fresh charge? for some reason the fist squirt out of the bottle is of a higher pressure than all subsequent shots.

You operating in heavily Chlorinated/Salted water?

David,

[toppack]

Yes, it was the first blow. I was just using the Snort before that.
I was at my neighbors pool so don't know what he has in it.

[toppack]

I've not let it get below 3 feet yet. When we get warmer weather I'll try letting it go deeper and see what happens. ;)
Just in case I have to go swimming. :)

[shamrock]

toppack. shamrock here first big test run this weekend having trouble with air trapped under main deck .need to drill holes in deck but where .dont want to make boat look bad.she looks great with all new paint. I also kept all deck rails think it makes the boat look so much better

[toppack]

I put some large holes up thru tower and bridge, as I was assembling the tower.That will be more difficult to do with the tower assembled but you can still drill up from bottom, with long drill-bits or you may want to melt them in with a hot soldering iron, less chance of drill damage to plastic that way. The total area of those holes is about 1", so most of the trapped air goes out sail.
My hull separates at the bottom of superstructure, not down along side of hull and has a gap between it and hull, for air and water, but if you did not build it that way, I think I would drill holes along side of superstructure, just below deck. Maybe a row of small holes, both fore and aft, to start with, see how it does and increase the size of those holes as needed. That would look better than holes in top of deck. Does it have holes all along base of superstructure now? If not, it needs some there first. 'D' shaped holes needed there.
Yes, those railings are easy to damage but they Do look good. I've had to repair mine a couple of times already (mainly because I only have one good hand now). As long as they are all connected together with the line provided in kit they won't be lost when knocked loose.

[VanguardUK]

Man! Why do that, you're going to wind up breaking the deck railing off the first time you play with it, I guarantee it!

Anyway, rig-for-dive would have all those stanchions and life-lines down below deck anyway! Wasted effort.

David,

He's right - I took my gun railings off just getting to the pond, they really aren't worth the grief!
Still looks the part though i think

[Boomer]

Be sure to open up the Access Doors on both sides of the fairwater. There were NO doors on operational boats, just an "Access Arch". This will give you some additional "breathing" ability if you also open up some of the deck under the fairwater. Also, but it may be too difficult for you to do now, on the 1:1 boats there was 3/4" clearance between the deck battens which allowed more flooding/venting space through the deck. The metal deck portion had holes drilled out for venting too.

[toppack]

The open access doors Boomer is talking about can be seen in lower-right of this pic of the USS Cod: