Gato class Sub Assembly #1

[toppack]

Hello,
I now have the receiver, servos, speed-control and ADF-circuit all mounted in SD assembly. The servos and speed-control/motors have been wired and tested. Next I'll attempt to test and adjust the ADF which is something new to me and I'm not sure about yet. :o

[toppack]

I tested the ADF, with 2 extra servos connected. As far as I can tell it's working properly and needed no adjustment. (already adjusted). The automatic-pitch-control and ballast-failsafe are worked porperly.
Hey, that was Easy! :)

[toppack]

Well, I got everything 'Crammed' into the Sub-driver-tube, and operational. So Now I can start trying to 'Cram' the SD into the Sub-Hull, which may be even More Difficult. ;)

[toppack]

Since I eliminated a lot of the access room by making the hull separation high on hull (under deck-assembly), I found that I needed to run the forward Dive-Planes linkage-rod under the sub-driver, instead of above it. I made a Z bend in forward end of rod to go up to forward DP linkage-arm and another bend aft of SD to connect it to aft DP linkage-rod. Forward and aft linkage-rods will be soldered together aft of SD since I'm activating all DPs from one servo.
I drilled holes in hull-bulkheads to act as guides for rod under SD. I'm hopeing those 2 guides will be enough to keep it in position.
There will be less chance of damage to the rod, when removing and installing SD, if it's routed under Sub-Driver. :)
And less chance of damage to forward Dive-planes, since there will be some flex in Z-bends of linkage-rod that will absorb the shock if they hit something. :)

[toppack]

I carved out 10 pieces of flotation foam today.
(To fit in hull and under deck assembly)
Man, what a mess! :eek: Little bits of foam stuck to everything on and around my workbench. :(
I only stuck myself one time, with the carving knife, tho. :)

[toppack]

I drilled holes in hull-bulkheads to act as guides for rod under SD. I'm hopeing those 2 guides will be enough to keep it in position.

I found that it needed another linkage-rod-Guide aft, so I cut a piece of scrap plastic to be glued in keel, with a hole in it, under aft end of SD. Now the long push/pull-rod works well with very little flex. :)

[toppack]

I now have the major components of hull and deck assemblies completed, with prop-shafts, struts, cover-holddowns, ballast, velcro, rudder & dive-plane linkages, couplings, etc. installed and ready for testing.
While I'm waiting for the new Mtroniks ESC to get here, I'll work on the sail and gun assemblies some more. Oops, need my Magnifying glass, Again! :D

[toppack]

I now have gray primer paint on hull, deck, sail and gun assemblies and flat black on the parts of sail that need it.
I'm gong to make the sail removable from deck, so I have access to the camera. The sail will be held on by 2 hidden screws.
This model's construction is goin much faster than I thought, it may not be an all Winter project after all. :D

[toppack]

I went ahead and installed the 2 long hull-strakes on the Gato.
I think they look good and correct, but they also act as stops, so the boat won't slide off the base/stand when carrying it. The wooden base, I'm making for it, has the vertical stands fore and aft of those strakes.
I now have final coat of black paint on hull. :)

[toppack]

I've about desided not to paint any Rusty spots on hull, the way so many sub builders do. I think I want it to look like a New Sub, which It Is. ;)
But I would appreciate any comments or suggestions about the final paint tho?

[toppack]

I finished the railings on main and gun decks, so I think that completes all the parts assembly. :)
I still have a little painting to do, when that's done I think she'll be ready for sea-trials. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I finished the railings on main and gun decks, so I think that completes all the parts assembly. :)
I still have a little painting to do, when that's done I think she'll be ready for sea-trials. :)

Man! Why do that, you're going to wind up breaking the deck railing off the first time you play with it, I guarantee it!

Anyway, rig-for-dive would have all those stanchions and life-lines down below deck anyway! Wasted effort.

David,

[toppack]

Man! Why do that, you're going to wind up breaking the deck railing off the first time you play with it, I guarantee it!

Anyway, rig-for-dive would have all those stanchions and life-lines down below deck anyway! Wasted effort.

David,

I certainly thought about that, but if the delicate railing post get broken the cable threads will keep them from getting lost and I can glue them back. I even take CA glue to the lake with me to make such repairs. :) I guess I'll need to add plastic-glue to my toolkit now. ;)
I even attached the deck davits, flag-poles, antennas, etc. A sub just looks too plain and unfinished without them, to me. :)
Some of my surface ships have Much more intricate detail than that and they survive.
Not 'wasted effort', remember that Therapy we were talking about. ;)

[toppack]

Since I could Not deside which actual Gato class Sub to make my model look like, I used things from several different boats. I used the number 213 of the 'Greenling', which was the next one built after the 'Gato' (13 is my lucky number,and must have been their's also). I used the Crest-insignia of the 'Growler', the 4th one built, since I like the Scull & cross-bones. Painted the guns to look like those on the 'Hammerhead'.
And I'm painting the deck a little different, than any of them, to give it my personal touch. :D
No bright colors of paint were used, and no Sharks-teeth were painted on. :D
I may paint the Sharks-teeth on later (P-40 style), tho. :D LOL :D

[Boomer]

No need for rust

I'm with you toppack on the rust issue. For one, I think others have overdone it. Secondly, boats coming back off patrol did not have that much rust, just check the numerous photos. There was more paint missing and primer showing than rust. Some skippers would have lost their jobs if thier boats came back as rusty as some modelers make then.