Assembling a 1/96 WEBSTER kit

[QuarterMaster]

IT'S ABOUT TIME!!

Better bring that b*tch to Groton next year so she can swim with GRANT as we deter 1/96 scale Soviets from nuking the North lake.




I'll be ready...YOU personally know what's in that box lol

[redboat219]

Ok craftsman.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I love old school tech specially when I don't have access to a CNC machine or 3 D printer. You sir are what the Japanese call a "takumi" or master artisan.

I've been called a lot of things in my time (most of it justified).

But this ain't no frig'n 'art', pal.

I'm a ****ing Craftsman. Period.

'Art' is a throw away word today denoting anything you don't understand, but don't want people to know that you don't know. Elephant **** on a painting of the Madonna does not an Artist make!

If it is not practical, it has no worth.

CAD and CNC is for no-talent, lazy, unskilled pussies!


David

[redboat219]

They're called dapping tools -- used by jeweler's to form cup-shaped imprints in soft metals. Commercially available from any big jewelers supply house.



I use them as fillet forming tools. Usually heated and used to form wax fillets in foundry patterns (old-school).



In this case the fillet running between bow plane structure and bow. Mom was a jeweler -- I took her stuff when she died.

David

I love old school tech specially when I don't have access to a CNC machine or 3 D printer. You sir are what the Japanese call a "takumi" or master artisan.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ah ha. This proves my earlier assumptions.....



You really are a one eyed old *******!

**** you!

David

[HardRock]

Ah ha. This proves my earlier assumptions.....



You really are a one eyed old *******!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Are those bullet shape contouring tools a commercially available item or completely DIY?

In my line of work they're called orifice dilators https://www.coopersurgical.com/Produ...vical-dilators.

They're called dapping tools -- used by jeweler's to form cup-shaped imprints in soft metals. Commercially available from any big jewelers supply house.



I use them as fillet forming tools. Usually heated and used to form wax fillets in foundry patterns (old-school).



In this case the fillet running between bow plane structure and bow. Mom was a jeweler -- I took her stuff when she died.

David

[redboat219]

Are those bullet shape contouring tools a commercially available item or completely DIY?

In my line of work they're called orifice dilators https://www.coopersurgical.com/Produ...vical-dilators.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bla, bla ... bla, bla, bla!








David

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Question on the bow plane sail - did you skin the Renshape with glass or use the Renshape as a mould?

Yes, I skinned the hollowed out RenShape (very dense polyurethane foam) with GRP to strengthen it. I would have rather used this item as a master from which would be produced a tool and GRP or resin parts -- but show-time is only ten days away, so speed is what is driving my material and technique choices here. This particular structure has to be tough as it will be the area most hit during collisions (which there will be many) and handling accidents (which are inevitable).




David

[HardRock]

Question on the bow plane sail - did you skin the Renshape with glass or use the Renshape as a mould?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The slog continues....














David

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank sir. You do not thin the Nitro-Stan?

I do on occasion thin it with clean, high-quality lacquer thinner -- I certainly clean the tools with lacquer. Most of the jobs the putty comes right out of the tube and applied neat.

David

[trout]

Thank sir. You do not thin the Nitro-Stan?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, the aft end of your sub is covered in a slurry? Is that Nitro-Stan and what?
is there any tips on mixing? I have a ton of small pin holes on the Walrus. Need your help.

Here's how you deal with pin-hole voids:

Heat the work up to about 150-degrees. The hot air in those little pockets is not as dense as the ambient air. Quickly brush your slurry (putty or on-cut primer) over the surfaces of the work. As the putty/primer and work cools, the expanded air in the voids contracts, pulling the filler/primer into the voids, filling them (not completely, but enough). This way, when you sand the surface, you don't experience the frustration of opening up the same voids you attempted to fill.

Anyone assembling the early resin kits before the common practice of pressure/vacuum casting (pressure casting something I brought to garage kit industry decades ago ... didn't invent, but popularized through magazine articles and lectures) knows the horror of filling and working a model parts surface possessing those horrible little air-bubbles.






David