A U-Boat In Ireland

[The Boattrainman]

On top of the new inboard saddle tanks extensions, a series of 10mm x 8mm rectangles of styrene are glued at every 1.5cm (a scale 60cm) up to the inner edge of the hull.




A length of 4mm x 2mm styrene strip is dropped onto the rectangles, loaded with poly cement, and plenty of cyano at the ends.




From the outside, they represent the support bars along the central drainage slot. The supports are a bit uneven thanks to variations in the hull sidewall thickness (euphemism for my crappy build), I'll make a sanding tool to run along the slot and get them evenly matched.




Version built as per kit instructions, that solid mid section and no support beams kills it in my view.








I think this mother might actually become a decent model.

The Boattrainman

[HardRock]

Me too!!!!

[The Boattrainman]

Both sets of railings are finished.......




.......and are trial fitted to the deck.............and the deck laid on the model.




Now beginning to look imposing.




And a size comparison with the 1/72 Skipkack 'USS Sculpin'.




The Boattrainman

[HardRock]

They really should have built those Skipjacks bigger you know. Must have been awfully cramped inside. (cue Derick Zoolander, "Is this a submarine for ants?")

[The Boattrainman]

I'd hate to be trying to carry around a 1/40 scale Skipjack, would a be a beast!!!

Rob

[The Boattrainman]

To put the finishing touch to the central drainage slot, there are four circular supports, two each side.

A 5mm tube is cut into four pieces........




.......four bar supports are removed............




..............and the round pieces inserted in the vacant place.........




...........and the view from the outside, one for the U-boat nerds, it's a small detail!



The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

Here are the brass masks from Boris, super detail made to 1/40 scale for this kit, made to order.He'll make all kinds of brass stuff to various scales to match the kits out there.




The rear set are stunning, but gonna be a bugger to fit.




The slots are drilled out for the forward pieces, the holes don't suit the replacement masks so they are fixed up with some styrene to support the new masks.




The masks are rolled with a brass bar to get them slightly curved, I also rounded off the sharp corners




Because they are just 0.3mm thick they are just stuck onto the hull, so a dremel and grinding stone is used to feather the edges, getting them down to 0.1mm.




The rest will be done with filler and sandpaper, this was easy, giving me confidence to tackle the rear set.




The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

The rear sets present a whole different challenge, the complex curves and you can't remove a large section of the hull as this will weaken a critical area.

So, to start the rear sets a re cut up into smaller pieces and fixed to the hull.




Then the plastic behind is drilled out with a 1mm drill bit in a Dremel.




This is the inside.




Not quite as difficult as first thought but still a full days work to get this far.




The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

The final flood/drain holes are added using the brass plates as a mask, stuck down with tape and drilled out with my Dremel tool.





It's over, the flood/drain holes are finished, what a pain in the a** to do!!!


One thing kept bothering me as I worked on the rear section, I never noticed it before, but the rudders are way too big.

So 5mm was cut off the bottom and 8mm off the ends.




This removed the locating pin for the rudder support, I added new pins from 2.5mm brass rod, into holes in line with tiller arm




Better if not perfect, but there is still that horrible knuckle over the rudders that's not on the original. Sort that later.

The Boattrainman

[MFR1964]

I read all through your thread, i admire you for taking the challence to turn the Robbe kit into a decent type VII, yes, those floodholes drive you mad i've had the same road to travel, you where lucky to get a nice deck, i had to make mine from scratch, took me two winters to finish it.
I own a type VII also, scale 1:35, making it a big six footer, i keep my eyes on you, keep up the good work.

Manfred.

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Manfred,

Thanks for the comments, would love to see pics of your Type VII, especially if it's from the Robbe kit.

My hat is off to you if you scratchbuilt the deck, what a nightmare, I notice even the Engel Type VII kit now has the holes predrilled (for €2,999!!!!), I really wouldn't have the patience.

Seven months on, and I still haven't looked at any of the internals yet, hope to start some the electronics before the summer.

Rob

[MFR1964]

Rob,

The type VII i own is not the Robbe kit but scratchbuild from factorydrawings.
I'll digg up some pics for you, i must say i've sold her a few years ago and got me another type VII at the same scale, but she is a differend story.
Seven months, calculate a year total before you can start with the electrical stuff.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Totally offtopic since this is not a Robbe kit, but you get the impression when you've finished your boat.







This boat was build as a Type VII/41, main difference between the early boats and this one is, most parts of this boat where welded instead of using rivets all the way, the one at the back is my present boat, it belonged to my good friend and teacher, it took some months to get it back into working order.


Manfred.

[The Boattrainman]

Thanks Manfred, great photos, not sure if mine will measure up to your standard.

Just to test my method I put some of the horizontal support bars in place, using 2mm x 0.5mm styrene and wide masking tape for a straight edge.




Now I can position the two 'bumps' on either side (vents for the Torp tubes perhaps?). I cut four diagonal pieces from 4mm styrene tube.






Then the UT(4 each side) and GHG sensors(15 each side), from pieces of the same styrene 4mm tube and some 3mm rod.




To add some definition to the UT sensors the tips of microswitch covers are removed and stuck in the centres.




The whole lot are hard sanded back to the hull leaving only around 1mm proud.




The Boatrainman

[MFR1964]

Rob,

I've got me no standard just a slight disorder for details, you're doing good work at your boat.
Those humps are indeed the vents for the tubes, only present outside at the early boats, later on they where hidden inside the non-pressure hull.

Manfred.