Victor III

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Inserts in place, motor attached.



    Servo link bushing glued in place shaft seal fitted.



    Servo rack attached to endcap (3 servo's)





    test fitting ballast tank and aft compartment

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    ESC for propulsion and pump will also live in the aft compartment, space is available.

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    Ballast tank layout.

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    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    I noticed that the holes in the motor endcap are too large to accommodate an M3 thread. Instead of redoing the endcap, I decided to enlarge them to 3.5mm and fabricate M3 threaded inserts, and press/glue them in place. Eight pieces need to be fabricated.

    In the endcap, the M3 bolt just drops into the hole (one of the inserds alongside).

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    The existing holes were opened up to 3mm; they just miss the inner edge (left 3,5mm, right 3mm).

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    Bushings are fabricated from 10mm aluminum rod that I had lying around.

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    Grtz,
    Bart




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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219

    Having no access to a 3D resin printer. I, would have done the piping by hand. Annealing brass tubing with a torch then eye balling the bends.
    I would have done the same, now its 3D CAD, estimate the tolerances/clearances, add supports, slicing and hope for the best.

    Grtz,
    Bart


    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich
    Neat! End product or master pre-casting?

    Jörg
    End product, did the prototyping in PLA to verrify all was ok.
    Grtz,
    Bart

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by bwi 971
    The end caps of the ballast tank are ready... Perhaps my reasoning behind making a custom water pump did not make sense. Routing the tubing inside is tricky, as the minimum bending radius of the tubing is relatively large. The last picture shows that both the discharge and suction of the pump and the lines integrated in the intermediate cap are in line. This was my aim; this way, no bending of the tubes is required. It will only require a small straight piece of tubing.

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    Grtz,
    Bart


    Having no access to a 3D resin printer. I, would have done the piping by hand. Annealing brass tubing with a torch then eye balling the bends.

    Leave a comment:


  • JHapprich
    replied
    Neat! End product or master pre-casting?

    Jörg

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    The end caps of the ballast tank are ready... Perhaps my reasoning behind making a custom water pump did not make sense. Routing the tubing inside is tricky, as the minimum bending radius of the tubing is relatively large. The last picture shows that both the discharge and suction of the pump and the lines integrated in the intermediate cap are in line. This was my aim; this way, no bending of the tubes is required. It will only require a small straight piece of tubing.

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    Grtz,
    Bart



    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Now switch from O-rings to X-rings, and you have a winner. Good work there, sir -- we're all looking over your shoulder with rapt attention.
    I had a look and at this side of the pond they are realy expencive....16 x the cost of the equivalend o-ring.
    As replcement will be easy I will stick to the o-rings.

    Grtz,
    Bart


    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by bwi 971
    The WTC pushrod seals are also ongoing. I wanted to use bellows, so I tried to manufacture them myself; however, all attempts failed. The bushings in the endcap are 8mm while the pushrods will be 2mm.

    The first method I tried involved using flexible resin. Although they looked good, the flexibility was not as expected, even though the wall thickness is only 0.5mm. They can be squeezed between two fingers, but it would challenge the servos. The fatigue test was not good; they broke after being bent a few times."

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    Then I came up with the idea to cast them out of silicone rubber (mold making rubber). I made a two-part mold with a core. The first attempt failed because the rubber deep inside the mold refused to cure. In subsequent attempts, I placed the mold in an oven with the idea of aiding the curing process, but that didn't work either. From the pictures, it can be seen that deeper in the mold, the curing of the silicone stopped. In my opinion, this was due to the lack of silicone mass to facilitate curing. At the bottom of the mold, the silicone is cured, as the body mass is higher.

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    Then I decided to use O-rings. The bushings in the endcap would come with threads, and an endcap would be used to secure and squeeze the O-ring. Initially, I went for a fine 0.5mm pitch thread. That did not work out, as the threads did not align properly and were damaged when forced.

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    I abandoned the idea of using a fine thread and instead applied a pitch of 1.25mm. The standard thread did not work, so I started applying a larger clearance between the endcap and the bushing. Both bushings and endcaps were marked with the applied clearance to keep them identified. An additional clearance of 0.05mm seems to hit the sweet spot.

    Difference between the 0.5mm and 1.25mm pitch

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    Different attempts one fail and two wins.

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    Again o-rings are on order to carry out some testing.

    Grtz,
    Bart
    Now switch from O-rings to X-rings, and you have a winner. Good work there, sir -- we're all looking over your shoulder with rapt attention.










    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    The WTC pushrod seals are also ongoing. I wanted to use bellows, so I tried to manufacture them myself; however, all attempts failed. The bushings in the endcap are 8mm while the pushrods will be 2mm.

    The first method I tried involved using flexible resin. Although they looked good, the flexibility was not as expected, even though the wall thickness is only 0.5mm. They can be squeezed between two fingers, but it would challenge the servos. The fatigue test was not good; they broke after being bent a few times."

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	179970

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Victor_III_51.jpg
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ID:	179969

    Then I came up with the idea to cast them out of silicone rubber (mold making rubber). I made a two-part mold with a core. The first attempt failed because the rubber deep inside the mold refused to cure. In subsequent attempts, I placed the mold in an oven with the idea of aiding the curing process, but that didn't work either. From the pictures, it can be seen that deeper in the mold, the curing of the silicone stopped. In my opinion, this was due to the lack of silicone mass to facilitate curing. At the bottom of the mold, the silicone is cured, as the body mass is higher.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Victor_III_52.jpg
Views:	182
Size:	53.9 KB
ID:	179971

    Then I decided to use O-rings. The bushings in the endcap would come with threads, and an endcap would be used to secure and squeeze the O-ring. Initially, I went for a fine 0.5mm pitch thread. That did not work out, as the threads did not align properly and were damaged when forced.

    Click image for larger version

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    I abandoned the idea of using a fine thread and instead applied a pitch of 1.25mm. The standard thread did not work, so I started applying a larger clearance between the endcap and the bushing. Both bushings and endcaps were marked with the applied clearance to keep them identified. An additional clearance of 0.05mm seems to hit the sweet spot.

    Difference between the 0.5mm and 1.25mm pitch

    Click image for larger version

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Views:	184
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ID:	179975

    Different attempts one fail and two wins.

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	179977

    Click image for larger version

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    Again o-rings are on order to carry out some testing.

    Grtz,
    Bart

    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Bart, that rocks. Solid design ideas!
    I could use something like this in my 1/144 Seawolf sub.
    It can still be made smaller too, imo. The gearpump and its downsides like the backflow, it just somthing that I need to try.
    Grtz,
    Bart

    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
    That is one well designed, kick-ass little gear pump, pal. Well done sir! The GPM is outstanding. Much backflow when stopped and the backside has a significant pressure over the front end?

    Consider going commercial with this thing, Bart.

    You European's are an amazing bunch.

    David
    Backflow, yes as expected. I hope I can eliminate this by raising the suction/discharge line to the ballast tank above the water level in surfaced condition; otherwise, I have to use a solenoid (preferably not). Regarding pressure, it required quite some effort to stop the flow by applying pressure with my finger on the discharge. I can't do it without taking a small shower.

    Grtz,
    Bart


    Leave a comment:


  • trout
    replied
    Bart, that rocks. Solid design ideas!
    I could use something like this in my 1/144 Seawolf sub.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    That is one well designed, kick-ass little gear pump, pal. Well done sir! The GPM is outstanding. Much backflow when stopped and the backside has a significant pressure over the front end?

    Consider going commercial with this thing, Bart.

    You European's are an amazing bunch.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • bwi 971
    replied
    The O-ring has arrived and fits perfectly. There were no leaks during the test run. Results at 3500 rpm show a flow rate of 1.2 liters per minute or 40.6 fluid ounces per minute.

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    Grtz,
    Bart


    Leave a comment:

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