Scratch Build Project 955 Borei K-535 "Yuri Dolgoruki" SSBN. 1/140 Scale.

[trout]

In all the photos, I see the rudder planr starting up from the hull. The side view photo has the rudder plane turned toward you (starboard). This then messes up the ability to see the portion coming up from the hull. The line is faint in some of the pictures, but in the same area in each one. On two of them there is a curious feature that that looks like it might hinge, but I don't know do subs use a trim tab while towing an array or have something docket to it???

As far as the rudder not being on center, I think you are mostly seeing an optical illusion because of the curvature of the rudder. Looking at the yellowish image the rudder would appear to be on the right or opposite of the other photos.

wonderful observation you got going on there. Very curious.

[bwi 971]

Welcome to my Rusky world :-). No two subs are the same, as this is also the case with the Borey.
What you have here are all pictures of the Borey class but from different hull numbers/Names

• K-535 Yuriy Dolgorukiy abbreviation YD
• K-550 Aleksandr Nevskiy abbreviation AN
• K-551 Vladimir Monomakh abbreviation VM

The picture below shows the differences in the rudders, hopes this explains your question.

Grtz,
Bart

[bwi 971]

In addition the rudder is dead center...pictures can fool you....please see the example below...both taken of the same borey sub while she made a turn.......first picture rudder seems to be on PS second picture rudder seems to be on SB.

Grtz,
Bart

[Davidh]

Hello all,

Thanks Bart for the explanation regarding the stern vertical rudders of the different boats in the one class. I will go with YD and AN. Interesting how there is such a change between the two. Thankyou also for the explanation of the vertical fin and how regardless of the side you look at it does not look centred. It must be an effect caused by a really curved profile as the plane meets the hull. It would be really good to get some close ups of the vertical fin. I could also really do with a close up overhead view of the rear deck, cleats, hatches and all.

As mentioned last week I used filler to created a scribable surface along the wood grain that I was trying to etch into. Filling in the rear of the missile deck and then sanding back and scribing the detail is has produced results. I don't think I will be able to do a better job. A the very end tip of the missile deck I have used the dremel to grind out a round counter sunk section in order to mount a stern escape hatch. Like the one at the front this will be machined out of brass and bedded in a layer of fill put in over a self tapping countersunk screw that will hold the stern of the missile deck down into the rear turned tapering stern section. I have also worked on the side of the sail, grinding and filling then scribing.

More of that later.

As mentioned a couple of months ago I have also been developing the design in parallel on computer as a 3D model. I am reasonably fluent in Blender 3D a software program that does it all. I have created the stern components as 3D models with the intention of being able to print off parts and also being able to make much nicer pics for the instruction manual. In the last week or two I have managed to get a little time to learn how to use the 2 3D printers that the school bought and have so far been underused. So a good learning curve involves printing stuff that you might find useful and going through the evaluation process and testing parts.

3D printing allows you the ability to make something and not be there. I'm taking my year 8 technology class and next door a little machine is making some sub parts for me, jolly considerate of it. One of the main considerations that I have is what will the surface texture and finish be like? I have seen many 3D printed parts before and the surface texture is nothing much to be admired. I have been experimenting with whether a surface coating can be applied to parts that will be hard and fine enough to allow for smooth and accurate sanding. I have tried using filler however usually filler doesn't stick well to ABS. So far it has. Next I will look at seeing if I can coat it in a super glue of some sort that may give a really hard surface that can be sanded smooth. If I can find an ideal coating them these parts could be ideal as masters because they will be identical.

My other main issue is warping of parts. I have printed off some stern plane parts and although they look good there is some warping creeping in. The room that the printer works in is air conditioned which is good because the last couple of days have been a sticky hot 30+ degrees. I will have to play around further with the fill level and the internal honeycomb structure of the parts. I also have to spend a bit of time working out the precise size of the models bought up in the printer software. I am using a printer called "UP" 3D and the software for calibrating and setting up the print job ain't great. I have had to estimate the size of the object about to print. I am reasonably close but would like to be closer....

Any advice of feedback about the 3D printer parts and how to use them would be greatly appreciated. Has anybody used them yet as masters for silicon moulds.

regards,

David H

[Scott T]

Hi David, I am wondering if the 3d printer could help with your deck scribing? I know you have completed the work but wondered if you 3d print the missile deck and hatches as
a flat sheet like photo etch then glue the sheet to the surface how it would look and work. Or use CAD to print vinyl stickers to show the scribed detail. Your work is looking great.
Scott T

[HardRock]

Hi Dave. The rudder for the 1/96 Piranha started life as a 3D print. I printed it at .1mm resolution and then sprayed the finished print with spray putty (which stuck to like **** to a blanket by the way) and finaly sanded it to a reasonable finish. Quite successful. Tinkercad, which is free, has a very accurate scaling system. Models built with it are millimetre perfect when printed out.

[Davidh]

Thank you Scott's.

hardrock, what is the name of the spray putty? Is that a Bunnings special? I'm not at the stage yet where I can accurately model deck hatches and the like in Blender, but it sounds like a good idea for the next time..

dave

[HardRock]

The spray putty comes from Auto -1. Its standard, single pack stuff which is far less toxic than the two pack stuff. Doesn't give as high a build factor but is easier to work with. It comes in blue and yellow - my advice is to get the blue or Rommel will be making corn dog jokes all over your thread!

On another matter, I'm back at the farm and getting back into the Romeo project. I was thinking about trying the lost faom technique (because my mould making is crap) but I'm coming around to the idea of just making a master first and to see how that turns out. If its OK, we might investigate sending it off to ZeroBubble. I'm going to do a Type 33 to begin with but I'll look at making a 33G version as well - same hull, different superstructure.

[gantu]

[gantu]

[Davidh]

Hello all,

Well I missed my usual Friday night time slot as I was at the staff Christmas party after too days absolutely flat chat. Glad all that's over for another year. Now I will have time to do some more work on Dolgoruki and other things. I did manage to do a little more printing over the week with lesser degrees of success. I would love to be proficient enough in blender to be able to model the entire hull accurately down to the smallest detail however I am not great on deck details in a mesh modifier and really have to get my head around Boolean functions before I can get good vent and limber holes working for me on a 3D modelled hull.

I have still been doing a little work on the scribing, once again grinding out a channel along where I want to put the detail and then filling in, sanding back then scribing the detail in. The front section forward of where the raised missile deck section starts forward of the sail is where I have been concentrating of late. The is a small number of square hatches and then further forward is the Torpedo hatches and the loading hatches above these. First I started with what I believe is a torpedo loading hatch that sits in the centre and curves downward towards the bow. It is a long rectangular hatch with several sections. The curvature of the forward bow section means that it needs to be hinged in several points to open. Either side of this rectangular section there are 6 rectangular hatches that end with a tapered point towards the stern. I should know what these are but don't, I'm sure someone will enlighten me...

Once again to do these hatches I have used the Dremel to grind out channels in order to lay down filler. Once done, sanding then scribing in the detail. With the centre hatch I wasn't too happy with how it turned out so I then filled it over again, sanded it back and then did it again. Laying down some blue edging tape helps make sure that the sanding and scribing work is within the area that we need it in.

The 6 hatches either side of this main hatch took me three attempts to get right. The initial scribing work had them too close to each other. then the second attempt had them too narrow and not long enough. Finally by the third attempt I am happy with them.

About a week ago I realised that the board to I used to rotate Resolution would not be long enough to rotate Yuri D. This is the board that you use to spin your hulls rotisserie style. I had to find a longer board and fashion two brackets with nails in either end to rotate this longer hull on. From here you can mark out your vertical lines, especially relevant at the front end with all your torpedo hatches and the like.

If someone can enlighten me on all those hatches..



David h

[HardRock]

Counter measures launching tubes me thinks. We're at the farm if you want to drop down over Christmas.

[Davidh]

Hello all,

Finally after completing work on the counter measures shutters at the front (thanks H' rock) I could finally turn my attention to the torpedo tube door and further detail at the front. For the torpedo tube doors I have not ground out the wood of the bow, the reason being that at the very front of the bow the tubes are at such an angle where they are almost end grain. Anyway I decided to test this theory and it seems to work O.K I am not getting the meandering and wandering scribe work that I would otherwise have cross grain.

This boat packs a bunch. Eight torpedo tubes arranged typical to almost all Russian sub with round hulls, high, above the sonar arrays. I made a brass template to scribe these torpedo door profiles correctly. Then use a compass and arcing off the centre point of the hull to help locate positions of the individual tube doors.

Once these doors are done would then mark out using the level marking board, the position of the outline for the forwards sonar array panels and the like. These lines run along from the bow either side under the torpedo tube doors at about waterline height horizontally and then vertically down underneath the hull. The best way to make these grooves isn't with a scribe but with a very fine kerf less saw. This would also allow me to cut the grain rather than scribe into it allow for a fine yet reasonably deep cut. I marked off the areas to be cut and simply cut along the blue line afforded by the blue tape.

David H

[HardRock]

Great work Dave. I'm looking forward to seeing it in person.

[Davidh]

Hello all,

It's been a busy week. I have been flogging the 3D printer like there's no tomorrow but that's another story. I've still yet to add another two torpedo tube as the total number should be eight. I will get back to that soon. I decided months ago that the missile deck would not be screwed down into place until all the detail that should be on the missile deck was in fact on the missile deck before connecting the two. working on the missile deck by itself is a lot easier to do dis-attached.

The final main bit of detail to put on was actually on the hull. There is a long ridge line, probably a long vent that runs horizontally under the section of hull were the missile deck comes down and meets the curve of the hull just above the water line. This open slit like section runs for a bit longer than the missile deck section runs horizontal and level before curving upwards at the stern and bow. I marked this section out and then carefully started making cuts with a knife running along the length, then I would carefully use the dremel tool to cut out an angled section along the length being carefull not to bump upwards and cut above the ridge line. This was simply followed by lots of sandpaper and filing. it's a subtle feature yet noticeable.

At some stage of proceedings I dropped the missile deck and the very front section hit the ground and snapped off just where the missile deck widens and gently angles upward around where the sail meets. annoying but usefull as it allowed me to fond another way to check for symmetry and balance. I could also see that the missile deck in cross section was meeting the hull at the same point on both sides of the hull.

The rear section of the missile deck is held on my two self tapping screws that are located front and back. The stern most one is actually fitted underneath the rear escape hatch. I turned up a small brass round missile hatch that would cover over the top of this screw. I drilled a hole at the back where the escape hatch is located and then ground out a wide area, a bit like a large uneven countersunk and then drilled a hole into the PVC pipe. The screw would simply be turned in an then the brass hatch would be placed in a blob of filler that would se underneath and around the hatch. At the same time a small hole was drilled with a countersunk up the front of the missile deck. This screw has been positioned beneath where the fin will go and will be covered with a piece of styrene that will outline the placement of the fin on the deck.

Merry Christmas everybody, Hardrock and I could do something most of you Northern types would never do on Christmas Day, Go to the Beach!

David H






kit.