USS Thresher

[Albion]

WTC Mk 4!!!

With the M1 nearing completion, im switching over to the Thresher rebuild. Sorted through some of the second hand WTC parts and worked out how it will all fit together. I cut out some new saddles this weekend and ripped out the old ones. The cylinder will sit very low and for once all will be below the Waterline. In Mk3 configuration she weighed 2.85Kg (6.3lbs) and didn't achieve true waterline, so plan is for waterline and saving weight. Going to be a simple snort arrangement with no gas back up.


So per previous post how long does my tank need to be, or are you going to make me work it out myself?

[greenman407]

Nice! I like the splined U joint. Where did you get it? Ill probably be needing some of those for the Seaview. There is a lot of original thinking going on, on this build.
If your asking me about the length of your ballast tank.....well.....your asking the wrong guy. I would say make it too long. You can always go back and put a round piece of blue styrofoam in it to reduce its volume.

[Albion]

Nice! I like the splined U joint. Where did you get it? .

http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthread.php?2034-M-1

refer to post 27 at your own risk

[HardRock]

Nice! I like the splined U joint. Where did you get it? Ill probably be needing some of those for the Seaview. There is a lot of original thinking going on, on this build.
If your asking me about the length of your ballast tank.....well.....your asking the wrong guy. I would say make it too long. You can always go back and put a round piece of blue styrofoam in it to reduce its volume.

Mark. These guys sell them. www.engel-modellbau.eu/Model Boat Accessories

[bwi 971]

1) without any gas tank in the ballast tank, how long should i make the tank?

I'm a novice, not reached that stage yet, so I can’ t give you any decent advice on that one.

2) Looks like there should be a lip seal on the drive shaft. Could you let me know what it should be so i can get back in Singapore

That depends of your shaft diameter if you are very unlucky and have the weird English system (LOL)
You can get them here:

http://www.sub-driver.com/accessories/couplers-bearings-seals-and-rods.html

If you have a metric shaft you can get them here (mine came from here):

http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/index.php?cPath=37_256

or here

http://modelluboot.de/Zubehoer/Dichtungen.html

or here

http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/ListTable.aspx?tp=r&rid=3

grtz,
Bart

[greenman407]

mark. These guys sell them. www.engel-modellbau.eu/model boat accessories

its all metric! Thats no good! **:";&^#!^+***!!!!!!

[Albion]

I need a 3/16 seal, but just the seal, i don't need the body

I'm going with a tank length of 150mm (6"), should give me 430cc displacement (15Fl Oz), that's nearly a pint!!!


Mark - The Brits invented the imperial measurement system, and we now use Metric, about time you guys caught up ;). Anyway it appears we also may have invented the metric system.

[greenman407]

ITS A Conspiracy.........I tell you......conspiracy! No Problem...I can adapt it. Ill just buy small and drill it out to an American size. Thatll showem.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David Copeland taught me a nifty way to work out the floodable volume of the ballast tank if you can't/won't work out the total above waterline displacement of the model submarine.

Finish the damned submarine as far as primer. Attach all appendages and running gear. For the M-1, put in about two-pounds of fixed ballast weight (depleted Uranium ... impress your friends) into the keel trough. No need for the SD yet. On the outside of the hull rubber-band enough foam to get the thing to proper submerged trim (just a small portion of the sail sticking into the air). Hack out a cylindrical piece of foam who's diameter is equal to the inside diameter of the SD you're eventually going to use. Start with a 12" long piece. Put it half-way along the length of the hull, mounted onto the SD saddles. Float the beast. Add, subtract to the length of the foam cylinder till the boat assumes proper surface trim (floats at the designed waterline).

That cylindrical piece of foam is a direct physical representation of the volume of water you need to push out of the ballast tank to float the boat; as it's the diameter of the eventual ballast tank, you have a direct correlation between length of foam cylinder and length of the ballast tank that will be built within your SD/WTC.

But .... keep in mind you have to account to floodable volume lost to all objects within the ballast tank (on-board bottle, SAS safety float-valve, hoses, blow-valve, linkages, scuttling-charge, etc.), so increase the length of the SD's ballast tank by ten-percent. And toss in another ten-percent just because I said so!

There! You're good to go.

Leave me alone!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Metric sucks!

M

[Albion]

Thanks Dave, a job for the weekend

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks Dave, a job for the weekend

Of course once you add the combined weight and buoyancy of the two other ends of the completed cylinder (after dry space, ballast tank, and forward dry space) you will add/remove fixed ballast weight/buoyant foam to compensate. An easy matter.

Take pictures.

M

[Albion]

It's the thresher which is already built. I've ripped out some lead which I think is over over kill from the previous wtc. So just need to dunk it and add foam to float, then add some more for surface trim. Simples.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's the thresher which is already built. I've ripped out some lead which I think is over over kill from the previous wtc. So just need to dunk it and add foam to float, then add some more for surface trim. Simples.

Oh, I did not catch that it was THRESHER. But, yeah, you got the idea. Let me know how it goes. And ... pictures!

M

[bwi 971]

Metric sucks!

M

And that's why you use it when you do calculations with your money......and to make things easier you use fractions for all your other stuff.....Ok Mr Spock that seems logical.

Grtz,
Bart