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So simple to do:
(I'm exploring keeping everything in the "WET" but the RX and APC, and the APC is subject to replacement by the onboard flight controller)
How to Waterproof Electronics || Nail Polish, Silicone, Potting Compound
But why the Temperature concern regarding this guy bothering to measure it?
HEAT is your enemy. So understand this:
Electronic Temperatures Ranges:
Abbreviation Temperature Range °C [°F]
Comm (Commercial) 0 to +70 [+32 to +158]
Hi-Temp Comm (Hi-Temperature Commercial) -10 to +100 [+14 to +212]
Extended Comm (Extended Commercial) -20 to +85 [-4 to +185]
Ind (Industrial) -40 to +85 [-40 to +185]
Automotive -40 to +105 [-40 to +158]
Full-Range Ind (Full-Range Industrial) -40 to +125 [-40 to +257]
Power Supply -40 to +130 [-40 to +266]
Mil (Military) -55 to +125 [-67 to +257]
Not being privy to layout designs for China, Engel, Keven Mc's gear and understanding their component selection/procurement, I am going to go out on a limb here and say 99% of what you're purchasing is Comm (Commercial) 0 to +70°C.
Using Telemetry for a number of years now, I have seen the inside of my Command and Control box hit over 51°C [125°F] while underway! That's AMBIENT temp of the air within the box, not your electronic components or their solder joints (thermal interface) within each doo-dad installed! Which as you can see is is about 70% upper limit. BTW, my motor compartment is separate, so unlike you WTC boy's, I'm not adding motor heat.
Heat in these enclosed, tight areas accumulates over time. It has nowhere to go! So maybe that's the answer to why it worked just fine last season, and you're chasing ghosts this one. Just food for thought. For the record I always water cool what I can, you have the whole pond. Moving what you can outside you're preferred "pressure hull" lessen heat accumulation within there and allows water to encircle the component.
Again, why do I bother to write this? So you have a basic understanding BEFORE you pot something and it doesn't shorten the life of your expensive electronics. Or you chase performance ghost's giving up on it altogether. Keep it in mind whatever you choose to do. It is a real and present danger.
BTW, that ESC in the video with the exposed Al heatsink? Unlike him, I would imply pot it in a shallow tray, heatsink up carefully adding the compound up to the edges of the heatsink facing up to expose that entire face to nice, cooling water! You could do it in a clay form ensure all wire leads get covered. Then remove the clay.
Do you want to know more?
(I'm exploring keeping everything in the "WET" but the RX and APC, and the APC is subject to replacement by the onboard flight controller)
How to Waterproof Electronics || Nail Polish, Silicone, Potting Compound
But why the Temperature concern regarding this guy bothering to measure it?
HEAT is your enemy. So understand this:
Electronic Temperatures Ranges:
Abbreviation Temperature Range °C [°F]
Comm (Commercial) 0 to +70 [+32 to +158]
Hi-Temp Comm (Hi-Temperature Commercial) -10 to +100 [+14 to +212]
Extended Comm (Extended Commercial) -20 to +85 [-4 to +185]
Ind (Industrial) -40 to +85 [-40 to +185]
Automotive -40 to +105 [-40 to +158]
Full-Range Ind (Full-Range Industrial) -40 to +125 [-40 to +257]
Power Supply -40 to +130 [-40 to +266]
Mil (Military) -55 to +125 [-67 to +257]
Not being privy to layout designs for China, Engel, Keven Mc's gear and understanding their component selection/procurement, I am going to go out on a limb here and say 99% of what you're purchasing is Comm (Commercial) 0 to +70°C.
Using Telemetry for a number of years now, I have seen the inside of my Command and Control box hit over 51°C [125°F] while underway! That's AMBIENT temp of the air within the box, not your electronic components or their solder joints (thermal interface) within each doo-dad installed! Which as you can see is is about 70% upper limit. BTW, my motor compartment is separate, so unlike you WTC boy's, I'm not adding motor heat.
Heat in these enclosed, tight areas accumulates over time. It has nowhere to go! So maybe that's the answer to why it worked just fine last season, and you're chasing ghosts this one. Just food for thought. For the record I always water cool what I can, you have the whole pond. Moving what you can outside you're preferred "pressure hull" lessen heat accumulation within there and allows water to encircle the component.
Again, why do I bother to write this? So you have a basic understanding BEFORE you pot something and it doesn't shorten the life of your expensive electronics. Or you chase performance ghost's giving up on it altogether. Keep it in mind whatever you choose to do. It is a real and present danger.
BTW, that ESC in the video with the exposed Al heatsink? Unlike him, I would imply pot it in a shallow tray, heatsink up carefully adding the compound up to the edges of the heatsink facing up to expose that entire face to nice, cooling water! You could do it in a clay form ensure all wire leads get covered. Then remove the clay.
Do you want to know more?