Ventilating a WTC

[Rpmtech1]

Sometimes due to some subs designs, its kinda difficult (or you feel lazy!) to take the WTC out and apart every time you run it. Its a good idea to do so though, to get rid of the inevitable moisture out of the sealed tube and all your equipment inside.

You can put a nipple on both ends of the WTC, and hook up an aquarium pump to one side to push fresh air through it.. the other side is the vent (duh)

I did this on those boats that are a nightmare to take apart after a session, in my first years playing with subs. Now I design them to come apart easy!

[redboat219]

Pushing air into the wtc could allow moisture already in air to collect and condense inside the wtc. Putting a moisture trap like silica gel in the line between the pump and wtc can prevent this.

[Albion]

i guess not everyone has the humidity we do!

[Subculture]

Roger Suitters did a series of articles on his Perry submersible build a few years ago in Marine Modelling International magazine. He used a small air pump to draw air from the sub and pass it through a small jar filled with a desiccant (silica gel packs I believe) and the drie air was then pumped back into the boat. This was left to cycle for a while until all the moisture had been absorbed by the gel packs.

Andy

[Kazzer]

So, if Mr. Merriman were to install a second tire valve connector in the forward end cap, as well as the one he normally installs in the motor bulkhead, one could remove the valves and simply snap on tire connector hoses. The through connector tube from battery to Aft dry space (engine room) would allow complete flow of air. It's the sort of nice easy and lazy way I'd like to do it. But will it work?

[Slats]

So, if Mr. Merriman were to install a second tire valve connector in the forward end cap, as well as the one he normally installs in the motor bulkhead, one could remove the valves and simply snap on tire connector hoses. The through connector tube from battery to Aft dry space (engine room) would allow complete flow of air. It's the sort of nice easy and lazy way I'd like to do it. But will it work?

If you want to change the air in sub I can't see why you wouldn't open up the cylinder. After all at a minimum you do need to get your battery out from the front end to recharge them. I also like to open the aft end up a little and inspect everything after use. Before use I apply a little silicon grease to the o-rings and to the push rods that contact the o-rings. When I am running the boat I put a silica pack in the aft end enclosure too.

The Subdriver is a precision instrument. It should be well maintained. I build an individual cradle for every one I own. For storage with the back end opened up a little, the SD then goes inside a pillow case to keep dust off it, then on to its cradle, and these go into a lockable dry cupboard. -Sick aren't I?!!@ - All they need is piped in music from various sub films and a little poster of Dave on their cupboard wall.

J

[Kazzer]

-Sick aren't I?!!@ - All they need is piped in music from various sub films and a little poster of Dave on their cupboard wall.

J

Yes! And very sad too!

[Subculture]

Sounds like bit of a fetish developing to me.

[Kazzer]

Sounds like bit of a fetish developing to me.

Yes, it does, I was disturbed about the little pillow cases for his Sub-drivers.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If you want to change the air in sub I can't see why you wouldn't open up the cylinder. After all at a minimum you do need to get your battery out from the front end to recharge them. I also like to open the aft end up a little and inspect everything after use. Before use I apply a little silicon grease to the o-rings and to the push rods that contact the o-rings. When I am running the boat I put a silica pack in the aft end enclosure too.

The Subdriver is a precision instrument. It should be well maintained. I build an individual cradle for every one I own. For storage with the back end opened up a little, the SD then goes inside a pillow case to keep dust off it, then on to its cradle, and these go into a lockable dry cupboard. -Sick aren't I?!!@ - All they need is piped in music from various sub films and a little poster of Dave on their cupboard wall.

J

I just puked!

David,

[Slats]

I just puked!

David,

- had the desired effect then.:biggrin:

[ADDINGTON]

The top of my 3.5 cylinder features an extremely complicated ventilation system consisting of a section of 2" o.d. and endcap.
-Kerry

[Kazzer]

The top of my 3.5 cylinder features an extremely complicated ventilation system consisting of a section of 2" o.d. and endcap.
-Kerry

Interesting. How does it work?

[Slats]

Yes please tell us why, the great thing I find about the sub drivers are they are not complicated and I see no need for any extra ventilation / access.

Over the weekend during some testing of different motors, I was able to open up the cylinder, unassembled the motor tray, snort connectors, servo rods, aerial link, gear box housing, and removed the motor in 3 minutes. I then reinstalled another motor and all the gear and got running again in another 3 minutes. I don't think an engine out replacement of under 10 minutes is a hassle, in fact I think it is simply brilliant.

J

[ADDINGTON]

New build Cylinder for 80-inch DeBoer Seaview. Presumably it could function for quick air-out if desired between runs. Also, as the engine bulkhead is a wee tight, the top opening allows me to loosen the control rods at the servo and slide out the equipment tray which is connected to the forward bulkhead. Sorry to go off- topic a bit.