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adf set up

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by small sub guy View Post
    http://www.robotmarketplace.com/stor...=true&type=AND

    This is where I get my (um-1) 75mhz crystals.
    Most appreciated, sir. I think I found what I want and will order from them. Good man!

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • small sub guy
    replied
    http://www.robotmarketplace.com/stor...=true&type=AND

    This is where I get my (um-1) 75mhz crystals.

    Leave a comment:


  • KevinMc
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
    I have a bunch of Lipton-6 receivers but none of the small UM-1 sized, single-conversion crystals on the 75mHz band. Any sources you know of (no luck checking out the GWS catalog).
    I'd try checking in from time to time on Ebay. It's getting thin there too, but every now and again things turn up.

    KMc

    Leave a comment:


  • KevinMc
    replied
    If you're suspicious about the ADF it's easy to diagnose - plug a servo directly into the Rx. If it works you know there's a good signal there. Next plug in the ADF and watch the LED sequence after the power-on self test. If it fails to detect the PITCH and FS signals then you have an incompatible unit.

    KMc

    Leave a comment:


  • Albion
    replied
    Thanks for all the responses , sorry I have side tracked this. I remembered I have an early adf2 which wasnít compatible with a lot of Rx, wonder of this is the set. Will do some more experimenting. Also the Carson set is put to one side for now. More news later

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by KevinMc View Post
    So, it's important to keep in mind that not all crystals are the same, and different transmitter manufacturers use different types of crystals. Where I'm going with this is it's not necessarily a valid test to take the crystal "set" from the Futaba Tx and use it in the Carson Tx, and vice versa. This is even more so the case with receiver crystals, since you also have to consider if the rx is a single conversion and dual conversion type.

    Are all of these crystals on the same channel, or are they different? (If the same it will help to be able to mix and match better.)
    Not to steal the thread, Kevin, but on the subject of crystals: I have a bunch of Lipton-6 receivers but none of the small UM-1 sized, single-conversion crystals on the 75mHz band. Any sources you know of (no luck checking out the GWS catalog).

    Leave a comment:


  • KevinMc
    replied
    So, it's important to keep in mind that not all crystals are the same, and different transmitter manufacturers use different types of crystals. Where I'm going with this is it's not necessarily a valid test to take the crystal "set" from the Futaba Tx and use it in the Carson Tx, and vice versa. This is even more so the case with receiver crystals, since you also have to consider if the rx is a single conversion and dual conversion type.

    Are all of these crystals on the same channel, or are they different? (If the same it will help to be able to mix and match better.)

    Leave a comment:


  • Albion
    replied
    I have a 4 channel Rx which works ok with a 4 channel futaba. Test 1 using no brand crystals in the futaba. Rx responds ok. Test 2 Switched both Tx and Rx to use the Carson crystals and no life in the Rx. Test 3 Put the no name crystals into the Rx and also the Carson 6channel Rx , no life , test 4 put the Carson crystals into the Rx and tx again no life.
    Last edited by Albion; 03-31-2019, 03:46 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • KevinMc
    replied
    Wow, I'm so late to the party everyone's already eaten all the chips'n'dip!

    What David said - if you're going to go for Option 2 then set up the AD2 with it plugged in to Channel 2 (and with the radio set up if you were only going to be driving the stern planes) and then disconnect after that and reset your Tx for what you need to drive the bow planes appropriately.

    There is actually a third option to consider, and this is a mode that I frequently run my little 1/144 KILO in:
    CH1: Rudder
    CH2: Bow plane direct from receiver, stern planes only through the AD2. Still lets you override pitch with transmitter. Depending on which way you have the bow planes move with respect to the stern planes for an UP or DOWN command you may either get a pronounced pitch change, or a level-bubble depth change.
    CH3: throttle
    CH4: ballast

    The up-side to options 1 and 3 are that you can use the trim function on your transmitter if your AD2 zero bubble cal is a wee bit off. As noted above, with Option 3 you can experiment a little with different setups between front and rear servos - you can make the dive command from your transmitter send both front and rear planes in the same direction, or in opposite directions. One will result in the boat generally pitching up and down more, the other will result in keeping the boat more on an even level at all times. Which you prefer is entirely up to you. (I run my KILO setup for "more pitch", and my OSCAR set up for "more level".)

    I'm not sure what to suggest about the transmitter - the twitch you see may just be a function of the proximity of the transmitter to the receiver and not necessarily an indication that the receiver is actually picking up a proper signal... Did the Tx come with a crystal, and does it happen to already be on the same channel as your Rx? If different, which crystal (between Tx and Rx) are you swapping to make them on the same channel? Do you have any other receivers you can test with? Presumably the Rx in question can be shown to work with another transmitter?

    KMc

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Albion View Post
    Option2 is what Iím trying to use. I have an Rx with 6 sets of pins, 4 channels and power, Iíve plugged the pitch lead into the spare slot so it has power. During set up of adf2 it asks you to command full rise on planes. If Iím using power with no signal, do I just bypass that part of set up and push the set up button without taking any action?
    No. Temporarily plug the ADF into the ch-2 port (elevator on the transmitter). Go through all the set-up protocols. Now put the ADF lead back into the battery port and you're good to go.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Albion
    replied
    Talking of 6 channel, I picked up this transmitter, itís unused but had no Rx or manual. Itís not sending any signal to the Rx, at least the servos arenít moving, but if I turn off the Tx the servo twitches. Any suggestions?

    Leave a comment:


  • Albion
    replied
    Option2 is what Iím trying to use. I have an Rx with 6 sets of pins, 4 channels and power, Iíve plugged the pitch lead into the spare slot so it has power. During set up of adf2 it asks you to command full rise on planes. If Iím using power with no signal, do I just bypass that part of set up and push the set up button without taking any action?

    Leave a comment:


  • SubHuman
    replied
    That, or buck up for a 6CH receiver (assuming you've got a 6ch radio). That gives you independent control of both bow and stern planes and offers up a spare channel for new, fun stuff in the future.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    I would advocate for option #2.

    linked bow and stern planes only works at a specific speed-depth (surface-capture is a phenomena that makes independent control of these two horizontal control surfaces a must).

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • SubHuman
    replied
    Two options I can think of:

    1.

    CH1: Rudder
    CH2: Dive planes linked together (both actuate in tandem). AD2 pitch controller goes between receiver and dive plane servo. Override with transmitter, otherwise planes will work to keep boat on an even keel. This setup means boat will pitch up and down during diving or surfacing, then then level out with no input
    CH3: throttle
    CH4: ballast

    2.

    CH1: Rudder
    CH2: Front planes
    CH3: throttle
    CH4: ballast
    * Rear planes (on a separate servo) run autonomously through the AD2. The AD2 just needs 5V power, no signal. Front planes pull the boat under. Rear planes work to keep the boat level. In this setup, the boat stay on an even keel (ish) at all times.

    Leave a comment:

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