1:144 Typhoon STL files

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  • FindingNemo
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
    • May 2022
    • 47

    1:144 Typhoon STL files

    Hi All, Long time lurker, first time poster.
    I'm building the 1:144 scale Typhoon from the Nautilus files is PETG and looking for advice. Prints are going well, though I've had a few issues with sections 5A and 5B.
    Unlike previous sections, both of these have a small flange on the bulkhead end. At first I didn't notice, and I started with 5B with the bulkhead side down. Fortunately the Slicer (Cura 5) seemed to ignore the flange and printed this part without issue. (There were two other issues with this post which I'll come back to.)

    When I printed 5B (again bulkhead side down) it printed the flange and then tried to print in the air. Fortunately I spotted this early and found the cause.
    I then tried printing with supports (again bulkhead side down) but this resulted in significant distortion of the leading edge (and failed to print the flange anyway). I then considered inverting the print with the bulkhead up, but have opted instead to remove the flange from the file. This was quite quick to do in Tinkercad (I normally design in Fusion but quick patches to STL files seems to be simple in Tinkercad. In this case create a box hole over the flange and group with the hull). I'm wondering if others encountered this issue, and how they addressed it? Should I simply have inverted the print and added supports? (This option adds about 15 hours to the print.)

    I had two issues with 5B. Part of the bulkhead (rectangular block section, starboard side) had some sort of solid issue and Cura ignored the block so it didn't print. The large flange above this block (starboard flange to align with the top hull) has a gap between it and the hull. These were again quickly fixed in Tinkercad (which is when I discovered the small flange discussed above, so I removed this). Again, I'm curious how others have addressed this?

    On the whole the above were minor issues and I'm impressed with the kit so far. If my solutions are of interest I can send them to Bob.

    Separate to this, I'm contemplating adding a cross-hull bow thruster. Bob has advised me this is unnecessary so I might drop it, but I've had fun in Fusion importing the files and adding integrated mounts for a removable thruster.

    Thanks and regards,
    Colin.
  • RanSan
    Lieutenant
    • May 2020
    • 61

    #2
    Hi Colin,

    I printed the Typhoon when I origanally designed it and had no problem. Thank you for pointing out the issues you are having. I will look at the files and see if I can find what caused your problems. I have done some work cleaning them up for Steve H when he printed is HUGE version and will talk to Bob about updating the files if I can see what might cause it to print better for some than others.

    I'm glad you were able to find solutions and are overall happy with the files.

    Randy

    Comment

    • FindingNemo
      Lieutenant, Junior Grade
      • May 2022
      • 47

      #3
      Thanks Randy. If you would like any photos instead of my verbal descriptions, or the STLs I made please let me know.

      I'm curious if the small flanges printed for you or not, and if yes, do they help with aligning the parts?
      I found it odd that they printed in one case but not the other. Perhaps the slicer revision or settings might be a factor.

      Thanks,
      Colin.

      Comment

      • hywel
        Lieutenant
        • Aug 2022
        • 65

        #4
        Sorry, dont mean t hijack the thread but I'm looking into the Typhoon and was going to print in resin, on my People Phenom Prime printer. On the YouTube channel someone mentioned that there were mixed results doing resin in the past, was wondering if that was based on the resin type, the printer or what exactly?? Any guidance is appreciated! Cheers!

        Comment

        • trout
          Admiral
          • Jul 2011
          • 3547

          #5
          Howdy neighbor.... I use my 3D printer a lot. I have printed parts for a sub, but not a complete hull (yet). With the current resin I use, Siraya Tech Fast Gray, while tough it is brittle. Now saying that there are mixes you can do to make it more durable including adding Tenacious and some add blu to the mix. So there are things that can be done. Resin printers have a much better finish and greater details will come out. I have printed details on my Skipjack, Walrus, Gato, and now the Trafalgar. My main usage is making my WTC including the magnetic end cap. There is so much that can be done.
          Peace,
          Tom

          Also Bob Martin has a Typhoon STL file he sells at nautilusdrydocks.com. or https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...in-1-144-scale
          Last edited by trout; 08-08-2022, 10:21 PM.
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment

          • hywel
            Lieutenant
            • Aug 2022
            • 65

            #6
            Small world indeed - hello Tom! I'm using Deft resin and have no idea how that compares to Siryatech, although I was thinking that a thin (maybe 1 ish layers) of fiberglass would help to line the inside of the sub with - I use that when I'm printing sci-fi helmets etc and it works like a champ. Likely that would make the sub heavier so I dont know if I'd need to upgrade the dive unit or not? I did pick up Bob's Typhoon STL's yesterday as the boss may have restricted my budget so much that I can't afford the Engel any longer!

            Now I owe you that coffee for sure!

            Cheers,

            Comment

            • trout
              Admiral
              • Jul 2011
              • 3547

              #7
              Originally posted by hywel
              Small world indeed - hello Tom! I'm using Deft resin and have no idea how that compares to Siryatech, although I was thinking that a thin (maybe 1 ish layers) of fiberglass would help to line the inside of the sub with - I use that when I'm printing sci-fi helmets etc and it works like a champ. Likely that would make the sub heavier so I dont know if I'd need to upgrade the dive unit or not? I did pick up Bob's Typhoon STL's yesterday as the boss may have restricted my budget so much that I can't afford the Engel any longer!

              Now I owe you that coffee for sure!

              Cheers,
              I think a lining of fiberglass is a good idea. As far as weight, not that big of a deal. After all, Engel's hull is all fiberglass and a lot heavier than the average 3D printed one. As far as a WTC, I will be happy to help you get one put together. If you buy Bob's WTC, I can show you what electronics you will need.

              As far as wife restricting budget, here is what my wife did if I look at another sub kit:
              Click image for larger version

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              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

              Comment

              • hywel
                Lieutenant
                • Aug 2022
                • 65

                #8
                Sounds great, thank you! I'm buying the starter kit so should have a bunch of bits and pieces to get dangerous with! The fact you used a Trek meme...priceless!!!

                Comment

                • hywel
                  Lieutenant
                  • Aug 2022
                  • 65

                  #9
                  My build progress is moved here: https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/build...ydocks-typhoon

                  Comment

                  • FindingNemo
                    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                    • May 2022
                    • 47

                    #10
                    Hopefully nearing completion of my bow plane doors assembly for the Typhoon.
                    Starting with a proof of concept, I've now moved on to a fully adjustable and serviceable design.
                    This has a lower support plate which gets glued into place, then the adjustable upper assembly mounts on top.
                    Upper assembly can be adjusted fore and aft, up and down.
                    Adjustable end plates guide the doors against the hull.
                    The flex of the thin brass pushrods in the proof of concept help to position the doors firmly against the hull.

                    Remaining: deciding on a waterproof servo solution, changing the servo mount to suit, install axles, cranks and pushrods.

                    Known risks: servos, pushrod clearance through the aft end plates and past a separate missile door mechanism I'm building.

                    Once I have this all proven I hope to release the files.

                    Comment

                    • hywel
                      Lieutenant
                      • Aug 2022
                      • 65

                      #11
                      Wow, that’s wild! While I’ve gotten the hang of 3d printing over the years, this kind of ability is so far out of my reach! Great work, can’t wait to see the finished items!

                      Comment

                      • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                        Moderator
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 12353

                        #12
                        Originally posted by FindingNemo
                        Hopefully nearing completion of my bow plane doors assembly for the Typhoon.
                        Starting with a proof of concept, I've now moved on to a fully adjustable and serviceable design.
                        This has a lower support plate which gets glued into place, then the adjustable upper assembly mounts on top.
                        Upper assembly can be adjusted fore and aft, up and down.
                        Adjustable end plates guide the doors against the hull.
                        The flex of the thin brass pushrods in the proof of concept help to position the doors firmly against the hull.

                        Remaining: deciding on a waterproof servo solution, changing the servo mount to suit, install axles, cranks and pushrods.

                        Known risks: servos, pushrod clearance through the aft end plates and past a separate missile door mechanism I'm building.

                        Once I have this all proven I hope to release the files.
                        A very clever solution to the bow plane door. And an excellent presentation of your study.

                        You're the kind of guy who would have been perfectly at home designing and prototyping analog computers (cam and gear logic 'differential analyzers') back in the 'day'.

                        David
                        Who is John Galt?

                        Comment

                        • FindingNemo
                          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                          • May 2022
                          • 47

                          #13
                          Originally posted by hywel
                          Wow, that’s wild! While I’ve gotten the hang of 3d printing over the years, this kind of ability is so far out of my reach! Great work, can’t wait to see the finished items!
                          I expect to make the print files free of charge once released. My pay off comes from the satisfaction that I made something useful for others, and as a tribute to my father and grandfather who started RC boating back in the 50's (back when you had to build your own radio gear).

                          Comment

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