Skipjack final set up

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  • Sailor2666
    Ensign
    • Nov 2017
    • 3

    Skipjack final set up

    Hi everyone
    This is my first post.
    I have visited the site many times and with the help of the build threads have completed my move us skipjack conversion.
    Everything works just as it should.
    I need some help and advice to finish it off.
    I have used the ballast weights, mounded foam pieces and some additional foam laterally.
    The skip jack floats on the indented waterline mark on the upper hull.
    It seems to me that at this position the flood vent is above the water line, therefor I can not command a dive.
    Should the waterline be higher or am I missing something simple.
    thanks
    Graham


  • RCSubGuy
    Welcome to my underwater realm!
    • Aug 2009
    • 1793

    #2
    No problem with the flood valve above the waterline (though it's not ideal in that you're having to lift not only the upper part of the boat, but the upper part of the cylinder out of the water when surfaced). Assuming, of course, you're using a SubDriver, the air will simply escape out the top of the tank, the model will submerge. Once the valve is below the waterline, you'll hear bubbles.

    All should be good, unless I'm missing something.


    Bob

    Comment

    • Sailor2666
      Ensign
      • Nov 2017
      • 3

      #3
      Thanks Bob
      Yes it is a sub driver.
      I have opened the valve nothing seems to happen( the valve opens) she seems to just sit there!!!
      perhaps a little more patience??
      Where would you have the waterline, I guess somewhere between the indented line on the hull and bottom of sail?
      Graham




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      • trout
        Admiral
        • Jul 2011
        • 3550

        #4
        The indent line is where it should go to. I am assuming you have flood holes cut out on the bottom of the sub. You have weight installed that is enough that when the sub's ballast tank is flooded you are at 1/2 to 3/4 inch of sail above water (my sub's sub-driver is not above the surface - so that makes me wonder on yours) Anyways, take the sub-driver out of the sub (or leave it in, just take the top off) and hold it underwater. Send the command to open the valve and see what happens. If it is not flooding, you can adjust the travel either by radio end point settings or manually adjusting the travel arm with a small hex. Another thing to try to see if the air is just getting stuck is apply a very small amount of Pam spray wiped on the o-ring. It will help the air slip out so to speak. If it does flood, then it may be a weight issue and it is not being pulled down - so a slower fill rate is occurring. Send photos it may help with seeing how you have yours set up.
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

        Comment

        • Sailor2666
          Ensign
          • Nov 2017
          • 3

          #5
          Yes it is a weight issue. All flood holes are done as per cabal reports.
          I have now added more weight, and working on getting the balance correct.
          Getting it to sit with just the amount of sail you suggest is proving a challenge without getting the stern and or bow too heavy!!!!
          workmin progress!!!

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