There are so many different materials employed on the hull. This thing will crack like an egg as it cycles through hot and cold environments.
David
Fictional Large coastal SSK
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Greetings! It has been some time since my last post as the construction of our garage=lack of workshop and cold temperatures in our attic prevented me from model building. Yet there is some progress with the SSK: Deck installation done, diveplanes&rudder are installed, residual tape marks removed, drive shaft under construction, engine mount done, major filling done.
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This evening i made the sealing disc that will a) hold an O-ring between itself and the outer face of the Bow bulkhead that seals the locking bolt radially and b) acts as a large washer to counter the force of the tightened locking bolt against the bulkhead. A second o-ring will sit between the disc and the smaller aluminum washer, beeing compressed when tightened. 1-2 large cylinder screws , threaded through the forward bulkhead to the inside will slide into corresponding holes in the tray bulkhead to prevent twisting of the frame when locking down the boat.
Last edited by JHapprich; 09-19-2023, 04:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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Building the counter-nut for the M6 main setscrew that will lock the stern and the inner tray to the main hull. My preferred modification of the ROBBE design. 2 m5 screws secure it to the forward tray bulkhead.
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More filling on the stern. Hopefully i'll finish sanding all the filled spots this evening and will cast-in the stern tube. To ease work, i dissassembled the sterns maon components. Bow's been filled,too.
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Installation of ther stern cone' tip.
The cast urethane tip was aligned with the "shaft" / threaded M6 rod punching both through the stern bulkhead and the centering discs inside the propeller guard. Nitrofiller was pushed into the gap between cone and tip.after curing, 6 3mm holes were drilled through and plastic dowels were inserted to hold the tip in position. Now the bilkhead could be removed and epoxy glue, thickened with urethane particles, could be filled in from the inside. More pictures from the drive shaft installation to come.
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Thank you!
Prior to permanently glueing the forward bulkhead to the hull, i prepated the upper deck for installation and disassembled the hull sections to check for proper alignment of the parts. First pictures show the fwd bulkhead that will hold the bow section with radial bolts just like the stern. You can also see the electrobics tray and the stern bulkhead. One large o-ring placed into the rim of the draining pipe will make the seal.Leave a comment:
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Greetings! The bow compartment is basically finished. Ech time glueing makes the boat look like a mummy!I made a new, higher deck for the bow and the main hull instead of using a raised bow, so i can accomodate the snorkel line much simpler. The conning tower is held in place by two stainless M6 threaded rods epoxied all the way through the fwd and sternwd sail portion with two stainless nuts under the deck. both deck portions will be bolted down onto a rail thats been glued down onto the outer casing.
JörgLeave a comment:
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The stern has been assembled. Next will be completion of the bow and installation of the deck.
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Thank you! I see the rust, need to do something about that. My current garage is not very tool-friendly. Steel walls and metal ceiling. Only good for dry humor...
It will not survive that year, planning for a proper garage with proper shop and WINDOWS ( I envie your's, David Hughes!)
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Some more work done. lower rudder support has been screwed onto the stern cone. Upper rudder support almost ready for installation. An aluminum bar and a "cheat" propeller shaft help aligning the parts to the cone. Therefore, the hull has been installed upside-down onto the bench.Leave a comment:
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