Carrying Cases for Submarines SURVEY

[CG Bob]

"SUB PENS" - carrying cases for you model sub.

1. Scale Shipyard 1:72 scale SKIPJACK
42" LOA
6.25" Beam
9.5" Height off cradle - 11.5" height on cradle

2. Scale Shipyard 1:96 Scale GATO - USS HAMMERHEAD
39.125" LOA
3.25" Beam
7.75" Height off cradle - 9.75" height on cradle
Cradle is 3.5" wide

3. Thor Design 1:96 scale PERMIT
34.75" LOA
5" Beam
6" Height off cradle - 8" height on cradle
Cradle is 36" LOA x 5.5" Wide

4. Moebius SEAVIEW
38" LOA
8" Beam
6.5" Height off cradle - 9.25" Height on cradle

[Scarecrow7087]

My only two are the Revell Gato and Type VII. Though if you are going to market good cases I will be interested

[SteveJ]

Mike

Only the Seaview for now

[mickelsen]

Mike,

I have a Moebius Seaview and a Custom Replicas 66" Nautilus.

[Kazzer]

Mike,

I have a Custom Replicas 66" Nautilus.

That's a new one for me. What about some dimensions please?

[Subculture]

Big x sucker= backache.

[mickelsen]

Mike,
I'll try to get you some dimensions for the CR66, but Merriman has one, also. He can tell you too.

[mickelsen]

Mike,
The CR66 is:
approx. 66" long
approx. 14" high, including "conning tower"
approx. 12" wide

It is originally designed to be for static display but I'm trying to convert is to functional R/C. (But you know what they say: you can always make them submerge. It's getting them to surface when you want them to that's the trick.)

[Kazzer]

Here are the prototypes of our new carrying boxes. They are being shipped to me today, and I hope to have them by Friday. As soon as I do, I will take some photos of the waterproofing resin procedure.

[Nuke Power]

You can accidentally ship me one if you like mike

[jim h]

I got it covered right now.


I would like to get a couple for the skipjacks to carry when we go camping.


Jim

[Kazzer]

The edges of the cardboard Tri-wall needs to be blanked off and sealed, and I have found that the standard kraft paper reinforced box tape is ideal for this.

This tape has thin strands of fiberglass bonded to the adhesive side, making it extremely tough.

By cutting lengths of tape and wrapping them over the edges, a fairly neat looking job can be accomplished in a matter of minutes.

It would also be worth considering using the tape to strengthen the folds of the lid. Prior to doing this, I think it would be advisable to run a blunt object along the folds, to push the tri-wall together. This would make it hinge easier.

Once the tape glue has dried, apply the first coat of resin, mixed with some lacquer thinner. This need to be the consistency of water, so it really soaks into the board and paper. The whole thing will look like hell at this stage, but leave it to cure overnight, and then you can trim off and protrusions, creases etc by sanding.

Apply a second coat of resin to the entire box, still thinned with a little lacquer thinner, but to the consistency of maple syrup.
Finally, you can paint the entire box with whatever enamel paint you prefer.

[reddevil]

My models are:
One 1/144 TRUMPETER SEAWOLF.
Two 1/72 REVELL VII C.
One Scale 1/96 SCALE SHIPS AKULA II.

Regards.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I observed at the just completed Carmel SubRegatta a lot of boats that did not have their own, purpose built, shipping/carrying box ... boats that are subject to handling and transportation damage. Mike's heavy-duty, specifically designed cardboard boxes will be a god-send to these guys.

Ellie and I just got back from the SubRegatta last night. After a bit of de-compression time today we'll be back in the shop and once again in service to the Great Caswell Empire.

David,

[Slats]

Mike,
a very good idea. For years I have spent a considerable amount of time on construction of heavier timber boxes - a light weight box is ideal.
Some alternatives I have seen involve a the use of round heavy duty cardboard used for concrete pillar form work. These work well, so no doubt yours of similar material and treated correctly will do the same.
Good thinking

J