Snort pumps.

[Subculture]

I've had a little experiment with running some small diaphragm pumps in the test tank.

One model is made by Thomas and the other by Smart products. Although they each pump air and will allow water through, I've noticed that the latter has a detrimental effect on the efficiency of these pumps. This is due to the little flap valves inside the head of the pump getting soaked, and I believe they then 'gum' up. In short they failed to suck once wet!

Anybody had issues like this? I think the answer if using them with an exposed snorkel is to place some sort of catch tank to ensure the pump only sees air and not water.

[redboat219]

I think the answer if using them with an exposed snorkel is to place some sort of catch tank to ensure the pump only sees air and not water.

Or you could duplicate what they do in the real world and incorporate a float valve on the snort head to keep the water out. This way even if you run the pumps while the sub is underwater no water will come in and ruin your pump.

[roedj]

Is this an issue with the two SNORT pumps sold by Caswell? I believe I read somewhere that Caswell's pumps could handle the occasional slug of water.

Dan

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Is this an issue with the two SNORT pumps sold by Caswell? I believe I read somewhere that Caswell's pumps could handle the occasional slug of water.

Dan

Our pumps push water and air. Don't sweat it. Andy was talking about pumps of different manufacture. Move along ... nothing to see here, move along ...

David,

[Kazzer]

I've had those pumps running continuously pumping water for over an hour and a half. Not a problem.

[shamrock]

snort pump leaking into s/d

was wondering if i can encase my mpc / small snort pump in silicone rubber . it leaks water in sd when i run under water.was going to build small mold place in complete unit

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

was wondering if i can encase my mpc / small snort pump in silicone rubber . it leaks water in sd when i run under water.was going to build small mold place in complete unit

Don't do that. find the location of the leak and fix it!

David,

[shamrock]

ok david will do thanks should i use a little CA glue

[pjdog]

Be carefull with that CA

Be sure not to get any CA in the pump or you'll be looking for a new pump. It will lock it up.

Jack

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

ok david will do thanks should i use a little CA glue

Hell, no!

You run the pump with water in it, pressurized, and find the area of leakage.

Take the pump-motor unit out of the SD. connect a length of hose to each nipple (induction and discharge). Put the induction hose into a cup of water and run the motor. Don't jump power across the motor poles with the electronic switch in place or you'll fry the switch -- apply power through the switch like it's designed (or Kevin will find you and kill you in your sleep). After the pump and lines are full of water, takes less than three-seconds, pinch off the discharge hose with clamps/hemostat and watch closely the pump casing for the source of the leak. If you don't see any leak then you have a problem with the SD's internal induction and discharge hose -- replace them and do a better job with the new set.

If there is a leak, then it's likely around the pump casting where the rubber plate that forms the two check-valves seals against the flange of the plastic pump casing. You fix that by taking the pump apart, coating the flange area of the pump casing with Permatex blue RTV gasket rubber (not too much!), laying down the rubber, and buttoning up the pump-case.

Simple.

David,