Working up Joel's Excellent 1/72 PERMIT

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, super cool to see you at work on a build yourself. Ive typically just seen you help all us noobs out:). Now that ive been through a lot of these steps myself i can appreciate and emphasize with the mundane aspects lol. Not that my opinion counts, but this is looking nice:)

I'm playing hookie. Any day now the Boss will step in and hit me with a purchase order. Till then, while the cat's away ...

M

[Slats]

I'm playing hookie. Any day now the Boss will step in and hit me with a purchase order. Till then, while the cat's away ...

M

Cattle prod charging...0..................................100%

Aimed

Firing

- there is that GRP Albacore kit to Finish!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

By your own admission there is nothing in front of it. Get on with it.

[Albion]

By your own admission there is nothing in front of it. Get on with it.

Type iX ?????????

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

... *******s!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The completed rubber tool of the 1/72 deck hatch was used to cast two polyurethane resin copies which will be used to represent the fore and after hatches that sit under the fairing covers, which sit flush with the deck. I drilled holes through and at the base of the 'bail' of each hatch piece to accept small gauge wires that will represent the down-haul cable used by the McCain rescue bell should the need ever arise for a personnel transfer.



(what a joke, 80% of the worlds water is deeper than the design depth of these boats, but the rescue system always gives comfort to Mommy and Dady. The system was disabled for patrol anyway -- the buoy either removed or its fairing plate welded to the deck. And thus, the term: Big and black and never come back).



Seen here is the hatch master attached to a disc shaped mold board; to the left is the dam that held the rubber while it transitioned from the liquid to the solid state; to the right is the rubber tool itself -- of the 'open face' type; and at the bottom, two freshly cast hatch pieces. The penny gives you some idea of what a 24" diameter hatch looks like at 1/72 scale. This is Manfred territory.




Test fitting the hatch and doing a trial run of the down-haul cable. Note how the cable runs up through the bail atop the hatch. One leg of the down-haul cable makes up to the buoy, the other to a reel that pays out the cable once the buoy is launched. As the buoy ascends, the cable runs through the bail till the flared end of the cable jams within the bail -- the vertically oriented down-haul cable ready to be grabbed by the rescue ship, spliced into the McCain bells down-haul winch, and used to pull the chamber down onto the submarines escape trunk seating surface.

At this time I also fabricated the towing padeye from brass sheet and glued it into a slot cut into the deck, just forward of the escape trunk seating surface.

M

[trout]

Nice touch. Great way to Manfredize the sub!

[MFR1964]

Hah!!!, scale 1/72, that's for the weak !!!, at that scale it sure have to be in working order, remember the 212, because of you it's still itching how to learn to pour some resin, i hate you!!!!!


Manfred

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ha!....

M

[MFR1964]

Argggggh!!, most annoying!!!!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

With the scribing done (finally!) I applied the floating wire antenna fairlead atop the hull, just aft of the sail; and put down the raised portion of safety-track. And I reminded myself that I have yet to show off how the linkage runs from servo to sail planes -- time to get you caught up on that item.



As you can see, I've collected a variety of wire sizes, alloys, and lengths. I found some iron wire that was easy to bend and was about the right diameter for the job. A length was cut, bent, and CA'ed atop the deck to represent the fairlead that runs from the trailing edge of the sail.



The external length of safety-track was represented by a length of Evergreen Scale Models .030 X .060 inch polystyrene strip -- a bag full of this stuff was bought today from the local Hobby-Town. The strip was positioned and then held in place with masking tap, then glued down with some thin formula CA. Care was taken not to glue the tape to the hull or atop the strip. Duh!

Excess glue was filed and sanded away. The iron wire floating-wire antenna fairlead was prepared for priming by applying some Ferric Chloride acid till it oxidized to a dark gray, then the acid was scrubbed away with fresh water, then the work was dried.

Some putty work at the ends of the raised portion of safety track readied that area for a proof shot of primer. Which was sprayed on. Still much clean-up work to do till this portion of safety-track looks good.




Note that I used two magnets on the forward end of the sail plane pushrod to engage the single magnet at the base of the sail plane operating shaft bevel gear.

M

[crazygary]

Lotsa available "real estate" inside that sail, Boss!!
Must be nice!!! Hah!!

Yet another "engineering marvel" from "the cave"!!
Sweet!

CG

[greenman407]

I like all of it accept that its not mine.

[Slats]

A+ for your float valve

Now get that A boat kit finished up whilst we're all still young.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

A+ for your float valve

Now get that A boat kit finished up whilst we're all still young.

I'm on it, John

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Here's some info on the real-life safety-tracks seen atop the deck (and sometimes on the sides of the sail).

It costs a lot of money to train, cloth, feed, and keep happy an American submariner. So, how to protect that vital asset. Part of that protection is working out a means of keeping said submariner from slipping off the deck and drowning his dumb ass. Enter the safety harness that is worn and the attached lanyard and 'traveler' that engages the safety-track. You fall over the side in this rig you only hurt your pride and possibly your back; you might even get wet. The deal is this: wearing this S&M outfit will keep you from drowning while standing the mid-watch topside while it rains ice in a New London winter; you won't break your neck in dry-dock; and you won't get diced in the screw if underway.



See this guy (who did he **** off)? He's painting the top of the 'T' sectioned flush portion of an American submarines safety-track. There are two types of safety track: the recessed; flush with the deck type you see here, set within the 'soft' portion of hull -- soft tanks are not subject to extreme pressure, so inlaying the safety track like this does not compromise structural strength. And the raised type of safety-track, which is welded atop the pressure hull of the submarine.

I've shown how I scribed in the parallel lines representing the flush portions of safety-track. Now, onto how I represented the raised portions of safety-track:



First shot above showes the nearly completed representation of the safety track. Note how the forward portion, which is of the flush fitting type transitions into the raised type over the pressure hull. However, the raised portion of safety track is not of square section, it should be of a 'T' section.

Sure, there is some fine structural shaped plastic stuff out there, but handling the stuff for this kind of job is a total ***** -- very hard to keep in alignment while you glue it down ... the cap of the 'T' gets in the way. Best to lay down a simple shape, like a square-section of strip stock, then to give it the 'T' section while in place.



I found the best way to achieve the 'T' section is to glue down some nasty .30" X .60" strip and once that's set up hard, to attack the sides of the strip with a purpose made cutter-scrapper-thing-a-ma-bob...

... screw it, look at the pretty pictures!

M