Type XXI 1/44 Scale (Old 1995 Revell U-2518 model)

[Sublime]

Hello Folks,

I'm new to the RC Submarine business, so I'm starting out small. While waiting for my 1.25 inch sub-driver from Mr M., I have been researching which version of the Type XXI I would like to build, prepping the model parts and buying the necessary building hardware. I like to have the unusual models and paint schemes. I'm thinking about either building the "Roland Morillot S613" which is the U-2518 after the French got done with it, or also the U-3008 after the US modified a Type XXI.

Edit: That is 1/144 Scale

Mike

[trout]

Welcome to the forum and welcome to r/c submarines!
Remember, ask questions, share ideas, and take photos if you can. There is not a better feeling than having your sub dive and (most importantly) surface.
You're going small and that will have it's own issues, but you can do it. David has a saying that helped me, actually two (well he has a lot of things he likes to say), the first is "crawl, walk, run". All too often first timers will want to add all sorts of add ons and multiply their frustration to the point of abandoning the sub. The second is "finish the sub, it is not rocket science". I actually combined two there. Get the sub running before you get crazy on fancy ideas. This helped me because I can get sidetracked by bright shiny objects or try to be creative with some aspect of the build. all not helpful to finishing it and getting it in the water.
As far as customizing it to one of the subs listed, I will assume you are a very experienced builder, go for it. If not, then build it straight out of the box, get her working, then customize.
Peace,
tom

[Sublime]

Thank you Sir! As a model builder, I am in no way experienced, but familiar. If I had to pick out my best attributes, they would be retirement, patience and a second Revell kit in case I make mistakes. The last model I built was a motorized 3 ft model of a Fletcher class destroyer. It was 1989 and I was aboard the USNS Observation Island cruising off the Kamchatka peninsula. When I got tired of it on display, I just loaded it with D batteries, trimmed it and sent it sailing to Russia. Always wonder how far it got. The Ship's Captain was mad at me because he wanted it for his kid.

Eventually, I hope to graduate to building a larger scale model of the USNS Observation Island and one more sub (The V-4, USS Argonaut)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What's your history operating and maintaining r/c vehicles. Be complete. There will be a test! Free time is not a key ingredient!

M

[Sublime]

Hi Mr M. Glad to meet you. I forgot to mention that you as well as all the RC Sub websites will be a key ingredient.

RC Aircraft (.049 to .60) 1984 to 1987
RC Cars (Electric) Occasionally
RC Toy boats (Electric) Occasionally

[crazygary]

Hiya, Sublime!

Welcome to "the pen"!!

I'm relatively new to the sub scene too, and am, finally, about 2/3 of the way done with my first r/c sub.

Since my pool will be where all sea trials, and basically all future running, will take place, I'm starting off with the Revell 1/230 Skipjack.
Seriously fun stuff here, so hang on and get ready for a great ride!!

Remember, there are no stupid questions, only the ones that don't get asked!! Of course, I'm sure at least one of our more prominent members, who shall not be named (?), may well disagree with that statement!! Hah!! But, you'd be very hard pressed to find a more helpful and knowledgeable modeler!

Great bunch of "subnuts" here!! Enjoy!

Crazygary

[Sublime]

Dang,
I bought the model, ordered the Sub-Driver, begged the wife to let me have a hobby room and gathered all the hardware. Now I'm starting to notice that everybody has a pool. Is that a necessity? I'm not going to get that one past my wife. A 1/230 Skipjack is pretty small, what all can you pack in there?

Mike

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hi Mr M. Glad to meet you. I forgot to mention that you as well as all the RC Sub websites will be a key ingredient.

RC Aircraft (.049 to .60) 1984 to 1987
RC Cars (Electric) Occasionally
RC Toy boats (Electric) Occasionally

Passed!

How can we be of assistance, sir?

M

[Sublime]

Thank you for your offer, but I'm not sure if I need help yet. I've cleaned up and gathered all the parts I need (minus the Sub-Driver, hint hint). I'm in debate about which configuration I'm going to build. All this time I always assumed all boats of a single type of submarine had the same limber holes, vents, etc.. So far I don't seem to find two Type XXIs with exactly the same pattern. It's kind of like the official Limber hole installer was a blind man randomly firing a 20mm cannon.

As soon as I figure out which version, I am going to use the Dremel tool with wire wheel brush to open up the holes from the back and putty the ones I don't want to use. Those pictures of the 1.25 SD you just put up just answered two questions I should have had!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You're going about this project all wrong. This is your first r/c submarine assembly (note I don't describe what you're doing as a 'build'). DO NOT fixate on physical details of the submarine model -- right now you need to learn r/c and propulsion integration within a model submarine. THAT'S ALL you should worry about right now. Only one thing should be rattling around in your head: "how do I get this thing to do in the water what submarines do?". That's all!

Paint the damned thing red, and speckle it with white poka-dots for all I care at this point. Learn the mechanics of this game first. Only after you have successfully learned that ... and only after that ... worry about making the model look pretty.

Enough talk about limber holes and other such horse-****. Not germane to the task at hand! With this model you will learn the in's and out's of what it takes to assembly, dial in, operate, and maintain an r/c model submarine. Your next one can be museum quality in the looks department.

M

[Sublime]

Very well Sir, but I draw the line at painting "STUDENT DRIVER" on the side of my Sub. I have been considering how to install the propulsion system and control linkages. As you know the Type XXI prop shafts go through the horizontal planes. My plan to assemble the stock Revell planes and drill them out so that I can install a brass tube in each one. When I install the horizontal planes on the hull, the brass tube will extend into the hull to support the prop shaft. I noticed on your pictures of the 1.25 inch Sub-Driver that you use (silicon tubing?) to couple the SD to the prop shaft and you appear to have the stock plastic screws. The SD is is for counter rotating screws I think, so did you have to reverse one screw?

On control linkages, I would like to install 3 servos for forward and aft dive planes plus the rudder. I have a good idea how to do that, but I'm sorta stuck on how to actuate the rudder. As you know, the Type XXI tapers fairly rapidly toward the rear. On a 1/144 scale model there doesn't appear to be any room for a control horn on the rudder. Borrowing from my RC Aircraft days, I thought about using an external control horn and linage like the rudder of an aircraft, but that seems so tacky.

That is about as far as I have gotten

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Fair enough, no 'student driver' sign.

The brass stern tubes for the propeller shafts sounds fine.

I assume that the kit provides both a counter clock-wise and clock-wise propeller. The output from the 1.25 motor bulkhead is counter rotating so things are fine in that department.

Don't do the bow planes -- the period of rotation on a small boat is so fast that the stern planes are enough.

Bite the bullet and run a rudder pushrod external of the hull. No big deal -- be pragmatic, we're going to get this thing in the water without the assistance of Mr. Goldberg. Know you know why I wanted to know your r/c vehicle experience.

Go get 'em, Tiger!

M

[Sublime]

Thank you,
Four to six inches of snow today, whatever shall I do trapped in the house all day?
Oh, Mr M. I do have another two questions if I might.

How big of an issue is corrosion on these things, should I only use brass and stainless?
"Rigging for Silent Running". I'd prefer that my sub slip through the waves without sounding like a vibrator. Do you sound deaden your subs in any way?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

As you're operating in fresh water (strive too, anyway), not a big deal if you keep raw iron parts out of the mix.

Usually those Du-Bro wheel collar set-screws are iron and will rust as you look at them! Replace all iron fittings with stainless steel and you're good. Electrolysis is not a big issue either as fresh water sucks as an electrolyte. However, if you operate in salt water (some pools use salt these days), you're not only going to have to run a portion of the antenna up a mast, you're also going to have to work hard to make all metal parts of the same material, this to cut down on corrosion. But, fresh or salt, your post-mission jobs should include a good fresh-water wash down, preservation, and blow-down.

Noise is good! Helps you find the damned thing if it gets stuck on the bottom of the lake.

M