Scribing Tools and Methods

[george]

Hello Again

Well started getting head into building and been posting and reading sections here. One thing I would find helpful and so may others. Is there a list here, with pictures, of the common, odd tools used for scribing into plastic and epoxy submarine hulls? Also a how to video would be great as well. I have read that most hulls require a little more scribing of the existing lines so that when everything is sanded and painted, the lines appear there.

I would really like to see what tools should be used for this so I can get some and how to BEST do the scribing so after painting it looks good.

Thanks All

George

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Your viewing and reading assignment:

http://vabiz.com/d&e/articles.html

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=merriman%2C+submarine%2C+ohio&oq=merriman%2C+submarine%2C+ohio&gs_l=youtube.3...3242.7328.0.7579.25.25.0.0.0.0.344.3772.9j11j4j1.25.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.FfXaTlRR31I

[george]

To: He Who Shall Not Be Named

Thanks for the tips. I have a few questions for you. So far I have seen in the Cabal Reports some of your scribing tools and fixtures. I also seen that you had a fittings kit for the: Building an 'Improved' Wallace RC 1/16 scale KAIRYU Suicide Submarine Kit, Part-4. I don`t see it at the Caswell site but do you still offer it? I have one I bought in Groton from Mr. Wallace and I need fittings. Second question for scribing tools, basically a pencil like tool with a fine sharp point is the basic tool for scribing existing lines. I thought that a scribe line was like a router cut in wood, deep and flat bottom BUT these scribes are pointed, which gives you a V like scribed line.

Am I seeing this properly or am I missing something? Please let me know about the above mentioned fittings kit and price.

Thanks
George

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

E-mail me about the KAIRYU fittings kit. I only sell through Caswell, but have a bunch of them here -- with the unavailability of the kit, I can't sell them, so I'll give you one. Your cost: do a WIP at this site and other related r/c submarine forums; clean our cat's litter box; and shower me with rose petals.

I'm a Master of Scribing (MS), and will say this: too many hack's will tell you that you need a fancy 'scribing tool' to work plastics and non-metallic substrates. Scribing stencils, and a pointed needle (re-worked needle-file) is all you need. The trick is to start with the sharp point and to then make the finishing passes with a blunt point with a shank of constant diameter. Practice, practice, practice.

M

[roedj]

Your viewing and reading assignment:

http://vabiz.com/d&e/articles.html

[ATTACH=CONFIG]22693[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22694[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22695[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22696[/ATTACH]

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...be.FfXaTlRR31I

DM,

A few month ago I asked for recommendations on building boards. You said 3/4" laminated shelving from Lowe's. Is that what I'm seeing here for your fixtures?

Dan

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

DM,

A few month ago I asked for recommendations on building boards. You said 3/4" laminated shelving from Lowe's. Is that what I'm seeing here for your fixtures?

Dan

You bet. Same stuff. I love it for fixtures, jigs, resin casting strongbacks, flat work-surfaces, and other things. Dimensionally stable and easy to cut, drill and tap.

M

[george]

Hey Mr. D.M

From your last picture with the fixture of the marker holder. How do you know at what height to have the submarine supported before you use the marking fixture? Or is the submarine on it`s permanent support frame and the fixture is adjusted so as to mark the desired cut line?

George

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hey Mr. D.M

From your last picture with the fixture of the marker holder. How do you know at what height to have the submarine supported before you use the marking fixture? Or is the submarine on it`s permanent support frame and the fixture is adjusted so as to mark the desired cut line?

George

The work is secured to the reference plane (top of the work/bench top). The marking tool, a surface gauge/waterline marking tool runs atop the same plane.

[roedj]

What is the function of the rectangular metal strips underneath the hull?

Also, I am about to try this method with a thin fiberglass hull. I see in some of your pictures you used a metal cutoff wheel that has teeth. Do you recommend this as opposed to those purplish reinforced fiber cutoff wheels so commonly used with a Dremel tool? What would be your recommendation if the hull was plastic like a Revell Gato? In ether case, what is your recommendation for how fast the cutoff wheel is turning?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm going to try this method very soon. Frankly, this cutting the hull technique scares the hell out of me. I just don't have enough practice nor confidence to use this method but I'm stuck with a sub project, the German Type 202, where I must make a horizontal cut in the forward section of the hull and I don't have a lot of practice hulls to learn with.

Dan

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What is the function of the rectangular metal strips underneath the hull?

Also, I am about to try this method with a thin fiberglass hull. I see in some of your pictures you used a metal cutoff wheel that has teeth. Do you recommend this as opposed to those purplish reinforced fiber cutoff wheels so commonly used with a Dremel tool? What would be your recommendation if the hull was plastic like a Revell Gato? In ether case, what is your recommendation for how fast the cutoff wheel is turning?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm going to try this method very soon. Frankly, this cutting the hull technique scares the hell out of me. I just don't have enough practice nor confidence to use this method but I'm stuck with a sub project, the German Type 202, where I must make a horizontal cut in the forward section of the hull and I don't have a lot of practice hulls to learn with.

Dan

Don't be such a baby! Jump in there and slash away like it was a rental!

The strips are pieces of #100 sandpaper (grit side up, duh!) glued to the reference plane (work-board) -- they keep the restrained model from sliding around laterally off its keel.

The GRP is GLASS! it will dull a steel tool in a heart-beat -- for GRP cutting use the thinnest (that means un-re enforced, so watch your eyes!) possible carbide cut-off wheel. Cutting polystyrene, use a new toothed saw blade at minimum speed and feed the tool into the work slowly and back off every three seconds or so, that way you don't over-heat and melt the work. Water helps to speed up the work.

Don't be a puss! ... get to it!

M