He who shall not be named Leason Needed

[george]

Hello

Well after watching several times Subcultures videos. I have a couple questions for the master.
1. Why are your WTC wall thicknesses 1/16" and not 1/8"?

2. An OLD history theory lesson please, how are the bow and stern planes set to function, turn, in a static dive? I have seen Mr. D.M dive his 1/144 kilo without the prop sticking out of the water BUT a nice level dive. So how are the planes set at the same time, very hard to see in the video. So to dive and to surface are both planes on one control for the Kilo and well at it, the 1/72 Type VII.

Thanks for the tips.

George

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello

Well after watching several times Subcultures videos. I have a couple questions for the master.
1. Why are your WTC wall thicknesses 1/16" and not 1/8"?

2. An OLD history theory lesson please, how are the bow and stern planes set to function, turn, in a static dive? I have seen Mr. D.M dive his 1/144 kilo without the prop sticking out of the water BUT a nice level dive. So how are the planes set at the same time, very hard to see in the video. So to dive and to surface are both planes on one control for the Kilo and well at it, the 1/72 Type VII.

Thanks for the tips.

George

The thinner stuff works fine down to thirty-feet -- and that's about twenty-five feet deeper than you ever need go. Hard to get 1/16" wall Lexan tube in anything over 2.5" diameter.

With only one exception (the SEAVIEW) the bow and stern planes are on separate channels and do not interconnect via linkage or transmitter mixing.

To keep the ass-end of your submarine from broaching as you go from surfaced to submerged trim, put the stern planes on full rise as you vent the ballast tank and hold it, and put the bow planes/fairwater planes on full dive dill the sail goes under, then release the stern planes and maintain desired depth with the bow/fairwater planes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBDPOvyZdAg the good stuff starts at, 7:00

M

[george]

Hello again

Thanks for the tip and the video lesson.

George

[Subculture]

Well after watching several times Subcultures videos. 1. Why are your WTC wall thicknesses 1/16" and not 1/8"?

They're not are they, except for the smaller sizes. I have one of Dave's earlier 3.0 wtc's, and that is most definitely 1/8" thick.

Wall thickness is dependent on what is available to you (if using pre moulded pipe) and what crush depth you require. The cylinder wall thickness on the PVC pipe I used in the video is only 1.8mm thick which is about 1/16", and that will be fine down to terrific depths for pipe sizes up to about 3" but no larger. However what I did say is that if you're using axial compression for the o-ring, you need thicker pipe, and that is because you need a 'face' to compress the seal against. The other alternative is to cut out a ring of plastic and bond that to the tube, to create thicker edge to seal against.

Many ways to skin the cat.

[george]

Hi
I thought the wall thickness of 1/16" that Dave uses was do to either overall weight concerns or the size of the internal equipment. I can buy 1/8" wall thickness cylinders in my area I just was NOT SURE if I should stay exact as Dave uses. Can`t go against something that works. Plus the 1/16" thickness is NOT available locally but from the states. I clear clear for that for the basic reason, I can see quickly if water is in it.

George

[Subculture]

A 1/16" wall thickness in lexan or PVC will be adequate up to about 3" diameter, beyond that you will need thicker material if you want the cylinder to remain strong if you go deep. An alternative if using thinner gauge than optimum would be to mildly pressurize the cylinder (would require retainers for the end caps), some ballast systems do that for you e.g. piston tanks.

If 1/8" is all you can get, then use that. Be mindful of the internal diameter, and check to see if your servos and other equipment fit. Apart from that, the thicker tubing will be a little heavier, which may not be an issue, but if it is you can allow for that by making the tube a little longer, or fatter, or by placing some extra buoyancy foam in the hull.

Also don't discount PVC or ABS tubing, even tubing like polypropylene will work fine, just be sure you don't want to bond anything to it, as it's tricky stuff. these plastics tend to be opaque, but so what. It makes excellent wtc's and costs peanuts, and is usually available in slightly thinner cross sections than polycarbonate or acrylic.