Albacore plastic hull kit assembly advice

[Slats]

Just got today the plastic hull only kit turned up from Mikes Sub Works

Looks like the natural Z cut spot in the bow is where the lower spanned bulkhead runs across the hull but this looks like a significant demarcation line that doesn't seem to be noticeable on David's top notched boat. I was wondering if that "Gold Standard" version you built David used a different Z cut location or if you proceeded with a z cut further up the lower hull half? If not how did you fill it?

Mark "Greenman" please jump in here too.

Also the little manual that comes with the hull kit mentions CA glue, but was wondering if a welded plastic glue is better?

The manual comes with the hull kit doesn't really indicate where the WTC foundations go, Mark / David - can you flick me the measurements where you placed these in the lower hull

Thanks.

J

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

All photos of my ALBACORE assembly -- and I've assembled about three of these things from the vacuformed kit -- are in slide format and have not been scanned. Almost all of the 'beauty' shots Skip has used to sell his kit employed models assembled, detailed, painted, and weathered by me.

As to the 'soft' edges between hull halves: The significant radius at the radial and longitudinal edges of the hull pieces -- an unavoidable artifact of vacuforming over patterns, not into proper female molds -- have to be filled with an automotive two-part filler, and filed and block sanded to a sharp edge.

Care is taken to prepare the plastic by sanding it with #100 grit sandpaper to produce the tooth and oil-free surface that will promote adhesion of the filler to the polystyrene plastic of the hull. After the filler is shaped, it is coated with thin formula CA that saturates the porous material, works into it, effecting a tight bond between filler and plastic. A final surface sanding with #400 sandpaper over the filled areas readies the surface for primer.

Place the Sub-driver in there so it's motor output is in alignment with the boats center-line, and the center of the ballast tank even with the half-way point along the length of the hull.

Make the sail removable -- two 6-32 screws will do it.

Fun boat to drive!

M

[greenman407]

I wonder if this is the same Albacore that I bought about 6 years ago or a remake? Ill get a couple of measurements up here in a little while.

[greenman407]

Taking a few measurements, my hull, minus the props, is exactly 39 3/4" Long. I experimented and found that for this setup, I located the center of the ballast tank at 23&1/2" measured from the prop end of the hull, without the prop. My Subdriver is the old, venerable D&E 3"WTC dual motor drive. It measures, endcap to endcap 17". The center of the ballast tank is 8&1/2" measured from and including the front endcap. Its also located 8&5/8" from and including the motor endcap. The Ballast tank volume measured from center of Oring to center of Oring is 4&5/8".

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This is the ballast tank mock-up for the 'new' 3" SAS type SD being finalized -- should have it in the catalog by this time tomorrow.

It's designed specifically for the 1/60 ALBACORE (all Phase conversions), but will find utility in many of the post-war 1/96 and 1/72 submarine kits. A two-motor version will also be available soon.

Note that the mock-up contains the non-stock emergency back-up gas ballast sub-system. The SAS safety float-valve, its plumbing, and emergency gas back-up components make for a very 'busy' looking ballast tank. But, that's life in the Big City.

I worked with John Slater on the size, position, and integration of the components making up this new Sub-driver -- his decades of 'user' experience and good engineering sense (it was his idea to increase the diameter of the conduit tube to provide room for more wiring between forward and after dry spaces, for example) have been of great service during this endeavor. My thanks to him, and you other Bums, who have contributed to the knowledge base around these parts.




David

[trout]

Nice work David. Another work of art!
T

[greenman407]

So Dave, when I order my subdriver for the Skipjack and request the gas backup, will it come installed or do I have to retro-fit?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You have to retro-fit it ... who the hell do you people think you are, anyway!>??????

M

[greenman407]

Well I just thought that you would want the Job done right, therefore you would want to do it yourself instead of letting me muck it up. After all, your gonna want an after-action report...............arnt you?

[Slats]

All photos of my ALBACORE assembly -- and I've assembled about three of these things from the vacuformed kit -- are in slide format and have not been scanned.
M

Scan them please and present them here, along with that review article that you wrote on its assembly that I can no longer find on the net.

Almost all of the 'beauty' shots Skip has used to sell his kit employed models assembled, detailed, painted, and weathered by me.M

Folks here's the money shot - in my view one of the best looking RC subs ever assembled

Care is taken to prepare the plastic by sanding it with #100 grit sandpaper to produce the tooth and oil-free surface that will promote adhesion of the filler to the polystyrene plastic of the hull. After the filler is shaped, it is coated with thin formula CA that saturates the porous material, works into it, effecting a tight bond between filler and plastic. A final surface sanding with #400 sandpaper over the filled areas readies the surface for primer.
M

Excellent - just learnt something.
I've always thought automotive fillers were incompatible with ABS / polystyrene plastics - they don't tend to adhere well.
The CA coating that saturates the porous filler is the missing link.

Place the Sub-driver in there so it's motor output is in alignment with the boats center-line, and the center of the ballast tank even with the half-way point along the length of the hull.

Make the sail removable -- two 6-32 screws will do it.

Fun boat to drive!

M

Thanks for the heads up on the COG location David.

[Slats]

Nice work David. Another work of art!
T

Well said Tom, - but its a work of craft.

best

John

[Slats]

You have to retro-fit it ... who the hell do you people think you are, anyway!>??????

M

Stock standard P'sITA

[Slats]

Taking a few measurements, my hull, minus the props, is exactly 39 3/4" Long. I experimented and found that for this setup, I located the center of the ballast tank at 23&1/2" measured from the prop end of the hull, without the prop. My Subdriver is the old, venerable D&E 3"WTC dual motor drive. It measures, endcap to endcap 17". The center of the ballast tank is 8&1/2" measured from and including the front endcap. Its also located 8&5/8" from and including the motor endcap. The Ballast tank volume measured from center of Oring to center of Oring is 4&5/8".

Thanks Mark.

Cheers

J

[alad61]

John I have been using turbo bog rather than auto bog for a fair while now on my styrene kits with very good results. When its dry it takes to blade fillers, the tamiya putty and all manor of primers. As for the ca trick David suggested that to me on my sheerline akula and I can't sing enough about it's value.

[Slats]

John I have been using turbo bog rather than auto bog for a fair while now on my styrene kits with very good results. When its dry it takes to blade fillers, the tamiya putty and all manor of primers. As for the ca trick David suggested that to me on my sheerline akula and I can't sing enough about it's value.

Excellent advice Alec
I take it this is the one you use - from Bunnings? :-

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_turbo-500ml-turbo-builders-bog_P1212026.aspx

Thanks

John