Lower hull paint on Lafayette class SSBN John Marshall - red or black

[Timothy L]

In this photo supposedly of the Lafayette class SSBN John Marshall in drydock at Holy Loch, Scotland, the lower hull does not appear to have red oxide anti-fouling paint - but rather the later used black paint.

1) Does anyone know for sure if this is an accurate statement?

2) Whether black or red antifouling paint, why does the photo appear to show such extreme marine bio-fouling?

3) Is that normal with all antifouling paint after a 2-3 month voyage?

4) What causes the 2nd distinct lower horizontal “line” towards the very bottom of the hull? Thank you.

[wlambing]

Tim,
Last first: She is carrying 3 distinct layers of paint. Bottom, up to main axis is all hull red, at main axis, there is a single coat of black sprayed over the red, which shows as a dark purple in real life, then, at the waterline she goes all black to the top of the sail. Remember, on a model flat black is too black. Dark charcoal gray hotrod primer is a good choice.
The bottom doesn't look red due to small barnacles and other bios.
Anti-foul paint wears out quickly. Growth commensurate to age of the paint and where she was patrolling. UK waters promote lots of growth.

Take care,

Bill

[Timothy L]

(Never mind Bill - I answered my own question after you pointed me in the right direction - very much appreciated!)
Thank you Bill -
1) Just to double check - Is the 2nd horizontal band from the bottom (which appears as the darkest, almost black band in the photo), the area which you say appears dark purple in real life?

2) A search for dark charcoal gray hot rod primer brings up large quantity primer (primarily available through TCP) for auto body shops. can you recommend a rattle can color or Tamiya jar color that comes close to the charcoal gray you are describing - so I can get a visual of the color? Colors on the computer screen can be misleading. Is the NATO black shown below reasonably close?

Thanks again.

[Albacore 569]

I won with my model of USS Permit 1/96th scale static Museum peace now in the Vallego Naval and Historical Museum (Mare Iland NSY) using these colors. The judges Ken Hart and others in subcommittee in 1994 thought them accurate enough to award me 1st place static at the 1995 Groton Regatta. My 1/96 USS Albacore static model won second place static. Was shocked to see the photo of permit even on a Russian model submarine website as an example of a American SSN. So my shades might be close enough.

Now I built a model represented as a display model fresh from a builder's overhaul. I am inexperienced with weathering, and refer you then to Merriman and Martin. Permit and scamp (skipjack class reside since 1995 still displayed there in the same museum today for viewing.




I used these colors. The model was primed heavily and wet sanded with autobody primers lacquers. The Floquil RR Colors paints used then were so good, the pigments 'so fine' they really were a joy ot airbrush with then.

Flouqul is no longer aroujn unless you fine some old bottles on the net or in hobby sales., but the Model master line carries accurate equivealants thank goodness.

The lower half of hull Floquil Zinc Chromate primer or equivalent. Upper half of hull Floquil Grimy black or equivalents. Now this is important. Now mask off waterline to correct surfaced trim with stern slightly down and coat the upper hull and sail and top rudder with a coat of Floquil clear flat or equivalent.

This coating added more translucence and makes the grimy black darker and contrasts perfectly the grimy black without the clear flat. Now mask off and paint the non-skid deck coatings in Floquil Engine black (darkest black shade) or equivalents.

Use the dry transfers for the draft numbers. use a light gray , not a white, as the white contrasts too much on the black. No headlights please, its like portrait painting, the whites in eyes are shades of darker white. The after all is set, seal the dry transfers and whole model with a flight second coat of clear flat to seal the numbers in. The permit is represented about as she looked in 1981 with her towed array, and your USS John Marshall should have same scheme.

[wlambing]

Tim,
The rattle cans I use now are from Rustoleum (why are they NOT under investigation for monopoly violations???),.You want the dark charcoal gray capped Automotive Primer, Fast Drying & Wet Sandable. Duplicolor (owned by Rustoleum) makes a similar product. Spray it on, let dry, burnish it with an old t-shirt. Done. The almost terra-cotta red primer is good for the underhull. Model Master was the first thing Rustoleum killed when they bought Testor's, several years ago. Propel is just their latest victim. Tamiya paint will go over this primer, as will True Colors paint out of Arizona. The NATO black is too black. Hope this has helped.

Take care,

Bill