Hi Tom,
Got to say this has been one of the most challenging 3D builds I have ever done. Issues at every turn for sure. As you say sir, I will keep plugging along.
New Toy For The Swimming Pool
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Rob, keep plugging along. It is fun to watch your come to life.
Peace,
tomLeave a comment:
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Hi Rick,
It's moving along quite well. When I started this project, I knew it was going to be an experiment as to performance. But, being me I always like to stick myself into the unknown, but for me it's the trip getting there as much as the final results.
Amazon.com: XHSESA 12V-24V 20A Underwater Thruster Motor 4 Blades Propeller Propulsion 30-200W Part for ROV RC Bait Tug Boat (clockwise Motor+1pc counterclockwise Motor) : Toys & Games
I purchased them on Amazon, and the information is in the above web site.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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The above two photos and ideas did not pan out for me. this body section was designed with the tab as part of the printed piece. The tabs just made it to long for the "Z" height to fit in the printer. Therefore, the designer produced files for the tabs that would later be glued onto the body section. Sorry to say it was a real pain in the you know what. Try as I may I could not get them to line up for a good fit. Plus, I did not want the screws because of the look...
I have gone ahead and bonded the two sections together. I am seriously considering bonding (gluing) the head onto this section. But, before I make this decision I want to make sure the motors (thrusters) work perfectly.
We are making progress. Next will be the large aft section to fit and glue to the piece in the photo above.
Rob
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About ready to close up the main part of the hull.
Before I glue the main hull together, I still have one more thing necessary and that is install the taps with the 3M brass inserts so that I can attach the head of the shark to the body. The head will be secured to the main body using 3M screws. This will give me access to the thrusters if it is ever needed.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
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Hi Andreas,
Thank you very much sir. I wish I could take credit for all of it, but majority of the design was built into the STL files. The designer's name is Kees, and he is from your corner of the world the Netherlands. The only thing I changed was adding the stainless steel screws and using nuts in place of the brass inserts.
Rob
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I have started the process of installing the thruster motors.
The thruster mounting brackets are now installed with stainless screws and nuts Ounce in place there is another hold down bracket (not shown) that will secure the thruster to the mount. The thrusters can be removed for repairs or replacement.
Rob
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No.
However there are XT60W which have a rubber sealing ring as per photograph (google XT60W). I use these on my battery box.
This only seals the mating ends of the connector and the back where the wires are soldered must still be covered with heatshrink and then sealed against water. I use multiple coats of liquid rubber.
Khim
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I am designing my own waterproof passthrough from my battery box to the electronics box. The photo below shows what I have planned.
I will bore holes, one for the positive and one for the negative wires to pass through from one box into the second box with a waterproof XT60 for disconnecting.
I will bore a 3/16" hole in each of the boxes, two holes per box. Install short pieces of 3/16" brass tubing in each hole secured with CA adhesive. 14 GA wire with silicone covering fit very nug inside the brass tubing, then I will slide a piece of silicone tubing that fits snuggly on the silicone wire and the brass tubing. Very tight fit and I am quite sure it will be leak proof..
I may also add additional silicone sealant at the points where the brass tubing exists the box wall.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
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I have a question?
I would appreciate anyone with actual knowledge to respond.
Are the XT60 plugs when connected waterproof? (1 foot underwater)
Thank you, any input would be appreciated...
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Leave a comment:
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