New Toy For The Swimming Pool

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Rob, keep plugging along. It is fun to watch your come to life.
    Peace,
    tom
    Hi Tom,

    Got to say this has been one of the most challenging 3D builds I have ever done. Issues at every turn for sure. As you say sir, I will keep plugging along.

    Leave a comment:


  • trout
    replied
    Rob, keep plugging along. It is fun to watch your come to life.
    Peace,
    tom

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I have also started on some of the electrical.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 52.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	66.8 KB
ID:	185542 Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 53.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	185543 Click image for larger version

Name:	shark build 51.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	185544

    The wiring in the photo is going to the thrusters. The exterior portion of the box is complete, I still have some work on the interior to seal it up even better. (No Leaks Here)

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Rick Teskey
    Sweet! What is thruster dia?
    Hi Rick,

    It's moving along quite well. When I started this project, I knew it was going to be an experiment as to performance. But, being me I always like to stick myself into the unknown, but for me it's the trip getting there as much as the final results.

    Amazon.com: XHSESA 12V-24V 20A Underwater Thruster Motor 4 Blades Propeller Propulsion 30-200W Part for ROV RC Bait Tug Boat (clockwise Motor+1pc counterclockwise Motor) : Toys & Games

    I purchased them on Amazon, and the information is in the above web site.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • Rick Teskey
    replied
    Sweet! What is thruster dia?

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    The above two photos and ideas did not pan out for me. this body section was designed with the tab as part of the printed piece. The tabs just made it to long for the "Z" height to fit in the printer. Therefore, the designer produced files for the tabs that would later be glued onto the body section. Sorry to say it was a real pain in the you know what. Try as I may I could not get them to line up for a good fit. Plus, I did not want the screws because of the look...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 49.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	52.9 KB
ID:	185533

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 50.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	57.3 KB
ID:	185534

    I have gone ahead and bonded the two sections together. I am seriously considering bonding (gluing) the head onto this section. But, before I make this decision I want to make sure the motors (thrusters) work perfectly.

    We are making progress. Next will be the large aft section to fit and glue to the piece in the photo above.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    About ready to close up the main part of the hull.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 47.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	60.1 KB
ID:	185530 Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 48.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	56.3 KB
ID:	185531

    Before I glue the main hull together, I still have one more thing necessary and that is install the taps with the 3M brass inserts so that I can attach the head of the shark to the body. The head will be secured to the main body using 3M screws. This will give me access to the thrusters if it is ever needed.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Before I can bring the main body parts together, I need to mount the thruster bracket's (completed) and open up the gill slots.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 45.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	56.8 KB
ID:	185522

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 46.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	46.8 KB
ID:	185523

    By opening up the gill slots my hopes it will allow more thrust to get this beast moving.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt
    That's a nice design.....I like it!
    Hi Andreas,

    Thank you very much sir. I wish I could take credit for all of it, but majority of the design was built into the STL files. The designer's name is Kees, and he is from your corner of the world the Netherlands. The only thing I changed was adding the stainless steel screws and using nuts in place of the brass inserts.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    That's a nice design.....I like it!

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I have started the process of installing the thruster motors.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 43.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	185512

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 44.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	51.9 KB
ID:	185513

    The thruster mounting brackets are now installed with stainless screws and nuts Ounce in place there is another hold down bracket (not shown) that will secure the thruster to the mount. The thrusters can be removed for repairs or replacement.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:


  • Das Boot
    replied
    That component box is great looking.

    Leave a comment:


  • Marylandradiosailor
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    I have a question?


    Are the XT60 plugs when connected waterproof? (1 foot underwater)


    No.

    However there are XT60W which have a rubber sealing ring as per photograph (google XT60W). I use these on my battery box.

    This only seals the mating ends of the connector and the back where the wires are soldered must still be covered with heatshrink and then sealed against water. I use multiple coats of liquid rubber.

    Khim
    Click image for larger version

Name:	xt60w.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	13.3 KB
ID:	185492

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I am designing my own waterproof passthrough from my battery box to the electronics box. The photo below shows what I have planned.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	SHARK BUILD 41.jpg Views:	0 Size:	65.6 KB ID:	185490

    I will bore holes, one for the positive and one for the negative wires to pass through from one box into the second box with a waterproof XT60 for disconnecting.

    I will bore a 3/16" hole in each of the boxes, two holes per box. Install short pieces of 3/16" brass tubing in each hole secured with CA adhesive. 14 GA wire with silicone covering fit very nug inside the brass tubing, then I will slide a piece of silicone tubing that fits snuggly on the silicone wire and the brass tubing. Very tight fit and I am quite sure it will be leak proof..

    I may also add additional silicone sealant at the points where the brass tubing exists the box wall.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."








    Last edited by rwtdiver; 01-18-2025, 04:59 PM. Reason: Additional info...

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I have a question?

    I would appreciate anyone with actual knowledge to respond.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SHARK BUILD 40.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	52.0 KB
ID:	185488

    Are the XT60 plugs when connected waterproof? (1 foot underwater)

    Thank you, any input would be appreciated...

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

    Leave a comment:

Working...