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  • Subculture
    Admiral
    • Feb 2009
    • 2121

    #16
    Originally posted by Albacore 569
    I have several very cool small sub designs I'd love ot print up. But not sure its worth the cost to buy just for one or two small models. Unless another could print for me.

    Steve
    What sort of size do you want the models to be? Small to some is five feet long.

    If it's just a couple of models and that's it, I would get them printed by someone else or a bureau. The latter will give you access to much better machines than consumer items. Resin is better than filament for detail and finish.

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    • Albacore 569
      Commander
      • Sep 2020
      • 331

      #17
      Originally posted by Subculture

      What sort of size do you want the models to be? Small to some is five feet long.

      If it's just a couple of models and that's it, I would get them printed by someone else or a bureau. The latter will give you access to much better machines than consumer items. Resin is better than filament for detail and finish.
      I understand. Thank you for your interest. I sent to Bob a follow on project to consider and provide a cost estimate to partially build a American L-class submarine (or AL- class) the electric boat Fore river design. But Bob is in the middle of a major move of his shop and understandably can't look at these till settled down again. It would have a beam of 6.5 inches and be 63 inch long in 1/32 scale. It would be for a 3d Printed hull mounts for a WTC and a WTC cylinder and electronics. I would sand and putty and paint the hull. I have props and robopet prop shafts for it ready. Extensive line drawings including detailed drawings f the 3" collapsible deck gun. Original navy drawings! Extensive photos.

      If too expensive, an alternatives would be for a Skate class SSN in 1/48 scale. 66 inches long, 6.5 inch beam. Have drawings. Would need a same or similar WTC an mountings fo rit. Again I would putty and sand paint detail to save money.

      Still too expensive then...Third option would be a Italian CB Mini sub of WW2 era in 1/32 scale. Just 18 inches long! Beam 3.7 inches in 1/32 scale. Have some cross sections an plan and profile. added hull sections would have ot be extrapolated from the known ones in the drawings to make more flowing contours. This hull is right up a 3 d printers ally exploiting its abilities!

      Last option would be Cousteau SP 500 one person mini sub. It would be approx. similar to a flying sub and use the same WTC and water jets off the shelf adapted to the new shape. thing 18 tp 24 inches in length. The pressure hull outline i simple a tic tac pill cylinder with endcaps. the 3 d printing challenge would be eye balling the shroud around the pressure hulls contours. Left and right sides are symmetrical at least. . It would use an already tested Flying sub WTC with water pumps cntrols. It wouldn't be as fast or nimble as a flying sub, but I wouldn't be looking for that. maybe even add a robotic arm?

      Help? Lets talk. All would make great subjects in anyone product line I think. Most of these as subjects t modeling haven't been kissed yet.

      These are what I am thnking for my next dream. But fellas I cant wait 15 years again.​


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      Last edited by Albacore 569; 10-07-2023, 03:10 PM.

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      • Subculture
        Admiral
        • Feb 2009
        • 2121

        #18
        Okay. They're not that small then. the last two subjects you mentioned are of a reasonable footprint, but the first two are quite large. Would definitely pay you to get a printer of your own over a bureau, however you can upload your model to get an idea on cost. Won't be cheap for bigger models.

        Comment

        • Subculture
          Admiral
          • Feb 2009
          • 2121

          #19
          My own printer is a little Creality Ender 2. A lot of people go for the Ender 3 which gives you a bit more bed space, but it wasn't released when I got my printer, and to be honest I get by with the Ender 2 just fine.

          I had to modify a lot of the printer to get it printing to the consistency I wanted. Creality are okay, the printers aren't overly expensive and I think they've corrected quite a few of the flaws in their earlier models, but quality control can be a bit variable.

          I really like the look of the Bambu labs printer models that were recommended earlier in the thread. I think they'd be a solid choice if I was looking to buy a printer now.

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          • Das Boot
            Rear Admiral
            • Dec 2019
            • 1156

            #20
            I looking at an ELEGOO Neptune 3 Plus.

            Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”

            Comment

            • tifosi12
              Commander
              • Jul 2020
              • 358

              #21
              Ender Creality type 3

              the printer is not that important, they all are similiar and use basically the same software to slice a model

              what's trickier is building your own 3D model, there are many paths that lead to Rome

              Comment

              • Subculture
                Admiral
                • Feb 2009
                • 2121

                #22
                Some of the later FDM models are notably quicker than earlier models. Then of course you have the choice between cartesian and delta type printers. I think speed is a factor if you’re printing hulls. I use my printer for making a few small parts of a master for moulding, and then make he rest using traditional methods- just my preference. Consequently speed is of a lower importance.

                Resin printers are a whole other story.

                I agree that carrying out your own CAD work is the most challenging aspect, but also the most creative end of this branch of the hobby.

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