Help Setting up Moebius Seaview SAS Subriver

[redboat219]

Acquired this SAS subdriver and fittings kit for the Moebius Seaview from Paul Crozier down in Houston.
For the newbies, this unit is equipped with a low pressure blower which initially scavanges air inside the cylinder to blow the ballast tank. Once the snorkel mast breaks the water surface the partial vaccum inside the cylinder is relieved and air from the surface is used to completely blow the tanks dry.

The pump has a control board soldered to it. The board comes with a servo lead and what I assume are power leads.

Is the power lead connected directly to the battery (7.4v) or does it need to be a lower voltage? IIRC these small pumps are rated to about 5v only.

Also, can one hook up the LPB controller and vent valve servo off of a single channel?

BTW, is it alright to store a subdriver with the endcaps on for extended periods? Do the o-rings deform over time?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hard-wire the pump controller to the battery bus. If you're going 11.1-volts, put a 11 Ohm resistor in one of the power wires leading to the controller. If using a 7.4-volt source (which is what you're doing), just hard wire it direct, and don't sweat the small ****.

You control the entire ballast sub-system from ch-4. Use a Y-connector to gang the LPB pump controller lead and ballast servo lead together onto the receivers ch-4 slot.

Good practice is to leave the forward and after bulkheads off the cylinder till ready for use.

Bout God-Damned-Time you finished something!!!!

David

[redboat219]

The toggle switch for the battery bulkhead a 1/4" SPST 6A okey?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The toggle switch for the battery bulkhead a 1/4" SPST 6A okey?

Yup.................................

[redboat219]

Couldn't find one with the rubber boot included, so have to order it separately.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Couldn't find one with the rubber boot included, so have to order it separately.

Get one of Bob's magnetic switches.

[redboat219]

Something interesting I just found out about the Seaview fittings. I always had the impression that the deflector vanes that were meant to counter Seaview's inherent tendency to dive at speed were just straight aerofoil-shaped resin pieces that were simply glued in place at a 5° angle.

Turns out they also have a negative camber.

Dive plane profile


Deflector vane profile

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That's right.

[redboat219]

Any tips in ensuring the holes for rod that the stern dive plane pivot on in the starboard and port nacelles are aligned ?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Any tips in ensuring the holes for rod that the stern dive plane pivot on in the starboard and port nacelles are aligned ?

Drill from the outboard side of each propulsion tube (starting at the leading edge of each horizontal stabilizer), through the outboard side of the propulsion tube, and on into the inboard side of the propulsion tube. Do the other side in a like manner. Do this with a 1/16" diameter pilot-drill. Enlarge the holes to produce a non-interference fit to the stern plan operating shaft. Create a boring rod to punch a like diameter hole through the central skeg.

You can do this with the propulsion tubes clear of the hull, or already attached to the hull. I've assembled four of these wonderful kits to date and have done the stern plane thing both ways with equal success.



Seal up the entrance holes in the horizontal stabilizers, taking care not to stick the outboard ends of the operating shaft to the bores with glue or Bondo... which would be a monumentally dumb-ass thing to do!

David

[redboat219]

Ground out skeg to accept rear dive plane control arm. As I didn't have my rotary tool with me I improvised one.