hmm i heard it a little differently Mike. Must be the british version :)
Floatation Foam
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he first recorded use of the term "brass monkey" appears to dates to 1857 when it was used in an apparently vulgar context by C.A. Abbey in his book Before the Mast, where on page 108 it says "It would freeze the tail off a brass monkey." [Source: Lighter, J.E. ed. Random House Historical Dictionary of American Slang. (New York: Random House, 1994): 262.]
It has often been claimed that the "brass monkey" was a holder or storage rack in which cannon balls (or shot) were stacked on a ship. Supposedly when the "monkey" with its stack of cannon ball became cold, the contraction of iron cannon balls led to the balls falling through or off of the "monkey." This explanation appears to be a legend of the sea without historical justification. In actuality, ready service shot was kept on the gun or spar decks in shot racks (also known as shot garlands in the Royal Navy) which consisted of longitudinal wooden planks with holes bored into them, into which round shot (cannon balls) were inserted for ready use by the gun crew. These shot racks or garlands are discussed in: Longridge, C. Nepean. The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. (Annapolis MD: Naval Institute Press, 1981): 64. A top view of shot garlands on the upper deck of a ship-of-the-line is depicted in The Visual Dictionary of Ships and Sailing. New York: Dorling Kindersley, 1991): 17.Comment
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I have read and heard (on TV, history channel) about cannon-balls being heated during battle, to do more damage. So it seems logical that they would need something special to hold them. So I doubt that the brass-monkeys are a myth.Last edited by toppack; 12-28-2008, 05:47 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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I'm now trying to do flotation-foam and lead-ballast testing of the Gato.
I found that both hull and SD were riding Higher at bow ends, so I removed some foam from hull bow. Now hull sits level, fore & aft, and it's at proper surfaced depth level without SD installed. Is that the the way it should be or should the hull sink? Or can you not tell until a flooded SD is installed?
The SD sinks and surfaces as it should but I have not tried it in hull yet. It's just a little higher at forward end when surfaced.
I suppose that means that I'll need to add a little more lead in bow of hull, to compensate, correct?Last edited by toppack; 12-29-2008, 02:17 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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I'm now trying to do flotation-foam and lead-ballast testing of the Gato.
I found that both hull and SD were riding Higher at bow ends, so I removed some foam from hull bow. Now hull sits level, fore & aft, and it's at proper surfaced depth level without SD installed. Is that the the way it should be or should the hull sink? Or can you not tell until a flooded SD is installed?
The SD sinks and surfaces as it should but I have not tried it in hull yet. It's just a little higher at forward end when surfaced.
I suppose that means that I'll need to add a little more lead in bow of hull, to compensate, correct?
Everything installed (including the SD ... Duh!); the ballast tank flooded, the boat trimmed by quantity and location of foam and fixed ballast weight to sit level, submerged with just an inch or so of sail projecting into the air; with the ballast tank empty, move foam above/below waterline to get the boat to sit with the waterline at the designed location -- DO NOT move any of the foam fore or aft.
Done!
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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Okay.....I was just trying to figure a way to do it without having to take the SD Out & In so dang Many times, since it's not easy for me to do with one good hand, but if you think that difficult way is the Only way, I'll give a try.
I think if I had the experience to know how the hull and SD (mainly the hull), by themselves, should react in water, then I would know how they will act when put together? At least close, which would greatly reduce the disassembly/assembly times. Which is what I was trying to do.
Maybe I'll get lucky, and not have to do it Too many times. :)
Thanks,Last edited by toppack; 12-29-2008, 04:29 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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Okay.....I was just trying to figure a way to do it without having to take the SD Out & In so dang Many times, since it's not easy for me to do with one good hand, but if you think that difficult way is the Only way, I'll give a try.
I think if I had the experience to know how the hull and SD (mainly the hull), by themselves, should react in water, then I would know how they will act when put together? At least close, which would greatly reduce the disassembly/assembly times. Which is what I was trying to do.
Maybe I'll get lucky, and not have to do it Too many times. :)
Thanks,
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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I'll report back when I've determined what a properly trimmed Hull, by itself, with no SD installed, should do.
I hoped someone already had that Information, to save a lot of time and effort, for everyone building a RC submarine, not just me.Last edited by toppack; 12-29-2008, 08:13 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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No need to keep opening up the boat!Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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Okay....I may try that on my Next Sub, but It's Too Late to do that on this one. Already stuck foam inside hull. :o
I do mean Well Stuck! ;)
I've about got it trimmed out, if I can get over these other little problems that keep croping up.Last edited by toppack; 12-30-2008, 11:15 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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Lowes carries it in their insulation board area. Yes it's what you are looking for. It has to be closed cell foam or it will get water logged in time and defeat the purpose. Also try home base, has it the last time i looked . Home depot does not carry it at least not the two i have looked at . Look at construction sites using it for bathroom wall insulation , they some times throw pieces of it away in there dumpsters, i have seen a lot that way. Its free also.
JimLast edited by Kazzer; 01-02-2009, 05:15 AM.Put your mind to it. If there's a will there's a way!Comment
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I found out that water-based outdoor Paint Does work well on polystyrene floation Foam. No melting or distortion. I had to let dry overnight, it seems to dry slower on foam? I did get it on thick tho.
I had to use a spray-gun to do it, but No biggy since there is easy clean-up also with that paint.
One thick coat was all that was needed. :)
No more Pink Submarine parts! :)Last edited by toppack; 03-04-2009, 05:21 PM.Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *Comment
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