Fitting Sub-Driver into Hull

[toppack]

David,
I'm thinking about using your idea of using Rubber-bands hooked over screws thru bulkheads, to hold the SD snugly into hull.
Do you still consider that a good way to do it?
Attaching velcro is more difficult isn't it, even tho velcro does Look good?

[Kazzer]

I LOVE Velcro. I use a contact adhesive to glue it into my hulls. It is SO much easier to connect than those rubber bands, which ALWAYS break when I never have a spare. Velco makes some with little buckles on them. They are really quick to operate.

[toppack]

Does the Velcro go all the way around the SD (inside bottom of hull) and glued at keel, or under lead-ballast-weight?

[Kazzer]

Yes, it goes all the way around and overlaps. Just glue the underside of it to the hull. If you place the weights on top of the Velcro, that will help the overall bond, as the weight is trapping the Velcro. On some models I have trapped the Velcro under the SD Saddles.

Sorry, I don't have my Seaview yet (Hint- hint - Mr M) so I can't take a photo of it. David likes rubber bands, so he won't be a bit of help here.

:)

[toppack]

Yes, I used to use rubber-bands to hold Wings on airplanes, so they do seem to be a 'Natural' here, but I'm starting to like the Velcro idea. I think I'll drill the screw-holes in hull-bulkheads, before glueing them in, just in case, but I'll give the Velcro a Try. :)
Thanks,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I used to use rubber-bands to hold Wings on airplanes, so they do seem to be a 'Natural' here, but I'm starting to like the Velcro idea. I think I'll drill the screw-holes in hull-bulkheads, before glueing them in, just in case, but I'll give the Velcro a Try. :)
Thanks,

You two anal-retentive types are way over-thinking this!!!!

David
(simple is good!)

[toppack]

But we are 'Modern, Up to Date' 'anal-retentives'. :D LOL :D

[toppack]

I found some Velcro strips, left over from another project, so another concern has been solved.

[toppack]

I'm now working on modification of rudder and aft dive-planes.
I didn't realize, until now, what a 'Tight Little Rear' she has. :D
Cramming the linkage arms in a 1" square space is not easy. I think I'll leave the aft torpedo-tube-doors out, the rudder-horn hits it and the opening will be good for visual inspection of linkage.
Determining the assembly sequence of those parts is a real callenge, since you can very easily do something that will not let you get to other parts. :confused:

[toppack]

I would sure like to see a Cabal-report or other instructional-video on proper procedure for trimming Ballast-weight and Floation-foam for optimum operation?
Or is that procedure somewhere already?
I can work up my own plan but experienced instruction would be very helpful. :)

So far the plan has been to stuff in as much Flotation-foam as possible, then put it in the hot-tub to determine how much lead to put in 'er keel, to keep 'er bearly afloat, with an air bubble in the SD.
Does that sound about right???

Of course a young lady or two , in the hot-tub, to help! :)
__________________

[toppack]

Was the above Question too Silly or Complicated, to answer? :o

(the young Ladies are still waitin') :D

[Kazzer]

SEE

http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=120&nav=0,5,6

Support Center » Downloads » R/C Modeling Files » Model Building General Instructions » ESTABLISHING SURFACE & SUBMERGED TRIM

[toppack]

Thanks, Mike
That is very Helpful. :)

[toppack]

There's one statment in the 'ballast instructions' I don't understand,tho ? :confused:

No foam should be placed higher than the models designed water line

Are you saying that it will not sink with that much flotation-foam in it, (without excessive lead-weight)?
I can see that high foam will do nothing when fully surfaced, but it seems that high in hull is the main place the foam should be, to stabilize roll, when under water or at periscope depth?

I need to know because I've put foam everywhere it will fit, (and not interfear with something), including above SD in deck assembly.
Should I remove some of it, or try it the way it is?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

There's one statment in the 'ballast instructions' I don't understand,tho ? :confused:



Are you saying that it will not sink with that much flotation-foam in it, (without excessive lead-weight)?
I can see that high foam will do nothing when fully surfaced, but it seems that high in hull is the main place the foam should be, to stabilize roll, when under water or at periscope depth?

I need to know because I've put foam everywhere it will fit, (and not interfear with something), including above SD in deck assembly.
Should I remove some of it, or try it the way it is?

You're two observations are correct: Foam placed higher than the boats designed waterline does nothing to generate buoyancy in surfaced trim; and that the ideal means of maximizing the boats roll stability is to place the foam as high in the structure as possible.

If the boat, in surface trim, sits on or close to the designed waterline (indicated in the excellent Revell instruction booklet, near the back), then, yes add foam into the above waterline areas of the hull to compensate for submerged trim. No harm, no foul -- doing so in fact increases roll stability (submerged).

But, you have to be pragmatic here -- the physical confines of the hull dictate what you can and can not do with the foam. Much of it will be lower than you want, and you have to deal with that.

If you've crammed as much foam in the hull as you can and the boat is still negatively buoyant in submerged trim (ballast tank full), then remove one of the fixed weights from the keel.

David,