Electronics/Motor Package Assembly ?

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I DID IT!
I used my Favorite Tool, *Duct-Tape*!
I taped the brass rod, with servo hanging on it, to a long steel rod, to push brass rod thru bulkhead. Then used an X-acto knife, taped to another rod, to cut it loose.
Didn't take long to do at all. :)
I have it all back together and surprizingly everything works again. :)

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Somewhere in forum, David asked for suggestions of ways to improve the sub-driver assemblies.
* Lengthening the wires from Vent/blow servo to receiver definitely needs to be done, before the servo is installed.
Another connector in that cable, with an extension, down in tube, is too difficult to connect and too easy to pull apart.

And don't say 'that would take all the Fun out of it'. ;)
That cable has been No fun. :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Somewhere in forum, David asked for suggestions of ways to improve the sub-driver assemblies.
* Lengthening the wires from Vent/blow servo to receiver definitely needs to be done, before the servo is installed.
Another connector in that cable, with an extension, down in tube, is too difficult to connect and too easy to pull apart.

And don't say 'that would take all the Fun out of it'. ;)
That cable has been No fun. :(

Good, sound points. And well taken. Thanks.

David,

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I finally got everything installed, working and adjusted in the Gato SD, but Now I've discovered another potential Problem.
Many small Cracks have formed around 3 of the 4 screws holding the bulkhead, between electronics and center chambers, in the plastic tube. If the cracks get any longer they will bridge the o-ring seal and may leak ? :mad:
Is this a common problem?

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I have an idea that the cracks were formed by the Cold temperature of the Blow gas hitting the plastic.
No where did I see any instructions saying that I could Not test and adjust the Vent/Blow servo without distroying the tube?
Oh, that's right, I didn't Get any Instructions with it! :(

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I finally got everything installed, working and adjusted in the Gato SD, but Now I've discovered another potential Problem.
Many small Cracks have formed around 3 of the 4 screws holding the bulkhead, between electronics and center chambers, in the plastic tube. If the cracks get any longer they will bridge the o-ring seal and may leak ? :mad:
Is this a common problem?

Yup. Don't worry about 'em till the water starts to come in.

David,

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Yup. Don't worry about 'em till the water starts to come in.

David,

Do you think putting CA-glue, plastic-glue or RTV over the cracks would help any, to keep them from growing?
I loosened the screws and put thread-locker around screws, to take pressure off the tube around holes, already.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Do you think putting CA-glue, plastic-glue or RTV over the cracks would help any, to keep them from growing?
I loosened the screws and put thread-locker around screws, to take pressure off the tube around holes, already.

Nope.

David,

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I was afraid you were going to say that. :rolleyes:
I may dab a little glue on there anyway, to make myself feel better. ;)

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Or maybe just hide all the cracks under *Duct-Tape*. :D
(Out of Sight, Out of Mind) :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Or maybe just hide all the cracks under *Duct-Tape*. :D
(Out of Sight, Out of Mind) :D

... you have learned well, my young Jedi!

David,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was afraid you were going to say that. :rolleyes:
I may dab a little glue on there anyway, to make myself feel better. ;)

Coward!

Where's your sense of adventure?

David,

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I've found something I really Don't Like about my Gato sub. It's Not being able to get to the On/Off switch without removing the complete deck-assembly.:(
I'm thinking about designing a simple push/pull-rod (wire) that will slip over the toggle switch mounted in forward end of SD, going thru hull, partly hidden under forward deck.
I managed to seal the toggle-switch with just RTV, no boot over it, so it will be easy to slip a coiled wire over it. I hope! :)

On my next sub that will definitely get a high priority. ;)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've found something I really Don't Like about my Gato sub. It's Not being able to get to the On/Off switch without removing the complete deck-assembly.:(
I'm thinking about designing a simple push/pull-rod (wire) that will slip over the toggle switch mounted in forward end of SD, going thru hull, partly hidden under forward deck.
I managed to seal the toggle-switch with just RTV, no boot over it, so it will be easy to slip a coiled wire over it. I hope! :)

On my next sub that will definitely get a high priority. ;)

I get at my switch through the square hole in the deck that gives access to the escape trunk door.

David,

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David,
Are you talking about the Stair-well (ladder) opening Behind the forward access tube hatch (door). I suppose it's large enough (if I removed the ladder from below it), to reach in with some kind of Tool, (but not a finger). The delicate railing post around opening could be easily damaged by a tool, also.
Is that what you mean?

Oops, I forgot, you don't put on any of that 'Delicate Stuff', like ladder and railings, do you? :)
I would like to keep them on as long as possible. ;)